Shutter Speed to freeze marathon runners

<p>My wife is running in the Brighton Marathon tomorrow (her first marathon), and I'll be there with my D90. I want to take some really cracking pictures. </p>

<p>I'm expecting to take some shots with her running towards me, and some panned shots as she passes. What shutter speed(s) would you recommend to freeze her movement? I was thinking around 1/500s?</p>

<p>I'll probably try some shots wide open in AP to minimise DOF and use the auto ISO to keep the shutter speed where I need it, although I'm expecting sunny conditions tomorrow so there should be plenty of light. Might also experiment with SP; I haven't used it much up until now. As far as focussing goes, I'm planning on using AF-C and might try using the AF-L button to pre-focus for some shots.</p>

<p>I'd really appreciate any advice you can give, especially thoughts about the minimum shutter speed.</p>

<p>Thanks <br>

Chris </p>

<p>The 1/500 shutter should allow shoting fastest continuous frame rate, if other conditions allow.<br>

1/250 should have some blur from a marathon speed motion, but 1/500 or faster is better.</p>

<p>Pre-focus for moving subject will be challenging, as you could possibly miss the moment. Marathon is a long distance, so if possible arrange to move fast somehow and shoot in many spots. Study the location.</p>

<p><em>"I'll probably try some shots wide open" </em> - you will have better chance to get sharper in focus pictures with the lens stoped down perhaps 2 stops ? - but you do not say what lens you have, so 2 stops for a 2.8 lens would be OK, but 2 stops for a 5.6 lens perhaps would not ? all depends on the lighting and desired depth of field, that would avoid missed out-of focus pictures.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>About use of Auto ISO. You know your camera, so set the upper ISO limit to value that provides good quality pictures with no noise. Perhaps ISO 800 could be OK for upper limit, or use lower value, e.g. 400 during sunny day. If you have to, use higher ISO, and deal with noise in post processing.</p>

<p>Thanks Frank. I'll be using the kit lens (18-105mm), so wide open is a modest f/4 - f/5.6<br>

I'll have the children with me, so I'm only going to have two opportunities; one at about the half way point, and the other at the finish line. In hindsight I think I'll give the pre-focus a miss.<br>

The forecast is sunny, so I'm hoping they'll be enough light to achieve at least 1/500s at f/5.6 without the ISO rising above base (200). Might be scope for me to stop down a bit and still stay above 1/500s.<br>

My main worry is that I'll get home and find that there is subject movement in all my pictures because I'd chosen too low a shutter speed. Your advice has been very helpful.</p>

<p>I'll post a pic tomorrow night if all goes well!</p>

<p>Chris</p>

<p>Chris </p>

 

<p>1/1200 - 1/1600th will yield far crisper results of feet and hands moving. </p>

<p>Keep the speeds as fast as you can to stop the action. I think you need to go to about 1/2000 or better, if you can. Stay above 1/1000.</p>

<p>The preferred speed depends on focal length and direction of travel of the subject. The math for that is below.</p>

<p>The formula is: <strong> </strong><br /> <strong>Exposure in seconds = distance (in feet) / 100 * focal length in inches * speed in feet per second.</strong><br /> <br /> A mile per hour is 22/15 in feet per second.<br /> For enlargements, cut that time in half to ensure sharp photos.<br /> Reference: Collins and Sussman. <em>The Amateur Photographer's Handbook</em>. p.217-218. 1941.</p>

<p>From a reference table: For a subject moving across the lens (like, left to right), using generic "foot races" category:<br /> 1/1000 for a 125/135mm lens. Proportion of shutter speeds relative to a five inch lens follows.<br /> 1/500 for a 50mm lens. [speed of 370 rounded up; 135/50 = 2.7; 1000/2.7 = near 370.]<br /> 1/250 for a 35mm lens. [135/35 = 3.857; 1000/3.857 = near 259; close enough to 1/250.]<br /> For subjects moving oblique, (45 degrees to or away): 1 step less will work.<br /> For subjects moving directly towards or away: 2 steps less will work.</p>

<p>By math:<br /> 1. Calculate runner speed.<br /> Average marathon runner (male), 4 hours and 30 some minutes. [<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marathon">Wikipedia "Marathon"</a>. Use local table or your runner's estimated time.]<br /> Marathon distance, 26.2 miles.<br /> 26.2 miles / 4.5 hours = 5.82 miles per hour.<br /> Convert miles per hour to feet per second.<br /> 5.82 * (22/15) = 8.539 feet per second.</p>

<p>Average marathon runner (female), 5 hours and six minutes.<br /> 26.2 miles / 5.1 hours = 5.13 miles per hour.<br /> 5.13 * (22/15) = 7.534 feet per second.</p>

<p>2. Apply formula for lens. <br /> Prepare for runner to be near ten feet away and the camera to be equipped with a DSLR APS-C "normal" lens of 35mm.<br /> E = D / 100F * S.<br /> E = 10 / 100 (35) * 8.539<br /> E = 10 / 3500 * 8.539<br /> E = 10 / 29886.5<br /> E = 1 / 2988.65<br /> Round that to the nearest available shutter speed. <br /> <strong>1/4000 with a 35mm lens.</strong> Use the fastest available shutter speed on your camera. [Nikon D90 page: http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Digital-SLR-Cameras/25446/D90.html#tab-ProductDetail.ProductTabs.TechSpecs ] Maybe use the next one down.</p>

<p>By using the same method, consider: 1/2000 with a 28mm lens.</p>

<p>Timing works out at 1/6831 for an 80mm lens. This can be achieved with flash, but that is a bad choice for your situation. Notice that at a distance of 10 feet, a telephoto will not be practical. The field of view may be too narrow.</p>

<p>For a telephoto picture, consider a point of aim near 30 feet. (Coincides with my experience.)<br /> Running that formula, for a distance of 30 feet, with the runner approaching the camera, with a 80mm lens:<br /> E = 1/2277, near 1/2000.<br /> 1/2000 at 80mm, point of aim, 30 feet, with runner approaching camera. [Exposure can go down to 1/250, if needed, because of runner's direction of travel.]</p>

<p>So, to make the photo, prepare for two kinds of setups:<br /> 1. Point of aim, 30 feet from you, with your runner approaching; 1/2000 at 80mm.<br /> 2. Point of aim, 10 feet in front of you, with the running crossing the frame (like at the finish line); 1/4000 at 35mm.</p>

<p>Remember, to get the exposure right, you may need to adjust aperture and sensitivity. Keep the sensitivity above 100. Your aperture will only open up so far. The further it opens up, the more you must be on target with the focus. You can check exposure and point of focus in advance by aiming at the ground. If they are running on a road, notice the stripes on the street. You can use them as a "trap" to prefocus on a spot.</p>

<p><strong>If you get nervous, use the "sports" icon.</strong> A once in a lifetime moment is not the best time for homework and a training exercise. However, the math above is provided so that you can see how the answer gets worked out. If I made an arithmetic error, I hope you can see enough of the math above to understand how the problem should be worked.</p>

<p>I recommend kneeling when making runner photos. It provides stability and sets up a good composition. The action is where the feet meet ground; the emotion is where the face meets the air. Good luck.</p>

<p>P.S. At the last moment, I saw that I calculated for male runners. The time differential, by using the average speed for females in a marathon, did not work out to be a significant difference. For example, the shutter speed for a 35mm lens at 10 feet worked out to 1/2636. It'd still get rounded up to 1/4000. The shutter speed for a 80mm lens at 30 feet worked out to 1/2009. It'd still get rounded up to 1/2000. A fast moving human is a fast moving human.</p>

<p>Times are wrong above. <br /> I failed to covert focal length to inches. I am so embarrassed. I apologize.</p>

<p>For a setup ten feet away, using a 35mm lens, runner crossing the frame, the time works out to 1/1195, rounds to 1/1000. To keep it sharp, split in half: 1/2000.<br>

<br /> For a setup thirty feet away, using a 80mm lens:<br /> E = 30 / 100 (3.2) * 8.539<br /> E = 0.0010979037, or 1/91, rounds to 1/125.<br /> Because the runner will be approaching at an oblique, you can probably hold it at 1/90 or 1/60. To keep it sharp, split in half: move the 1/125 to 1/500.</p>

<p>1/2000 at the finish line with 35mm.<br>

1/500 along the course with 80mm aimed at 30 feet. </p>

<p>Wow John! Thank you so much. I now feel much more confident.</p>

<p>Thanks also for the compositional advice. I'll certainly try to get down on my knee if I can.</p>

<p>Chris </p>

<p> </p>

Take the photos when she is in full stride. If you snap when both feet are together near the ground it will look like she is tripping over her own feet.

<p>Chris - somethings to look out for in your preparation; race starts are often very cluttered (depending on the size of race) - as mentioned earlier try and move to specific points on the course which should have the runners more spread out for some better chances of good shots. I go with start line, 1/3rd, 2/3rd and finish of the route or good points thereabout which I would have scouted.<br>

You should have plenty of time to shoot and mess around with the shutter speeds to see what yields you the best results.<br>

Have fun.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>My main worry is that I'll get home and find that there is subject movement in all my pictures because I'd chosen too low a shutter speed.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I concur that in the order of: 1/1250s to 1/1600s, would be safer as a one shutter speed simple solution for you.<br>

I would sacrifice ISO to get that shutter speed if I were you, shooting at ISO1600, if necessary.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>Thanks guys. About to head off now. I'll let you see how I got on.</p>

<p>Chris</p>

<p>Wife successfully frozen! Thanks guys.</p><div></div>

<p>I recently shot the Athens Golden 2500 year Marathon (check my website for images if you want) and these are the lessons I drew from the experience:</p>

<p>1. Try to stand a few meters AFTER the finish line and a bit to one side. That way you can frame as she comes in, shoot in continuous mode and grab the moment of triumph. These are all "must-have" shots, especially if this is her first time.</p>

<p>2. Personally, I was shooting with either a 200-400 f/4 or a 70-200 or a 24-70. All lenses were at f4 or f/4.5 to ensure the focus was ONLY on the runner and not on anything/anyone else. THAT is important, otherwise none of the details will matter as they will "blend in" with the chaos of the people around.</p>

<p>3. Speeds were determined by light - I was shooting in Aperture priority mode and had my eye on the screen to ensure the camera gave me no speeds lower than 1/400. At that speed I could get pretty much everything frozen. Remember, the marathon is not a speed - it's an endurance race and so people don't run like crazy. They pace themselves, and so the 1/400 is more than adequate.</p>

<p>I know I'm probably suggesting too much, but with the kids there you'll have a hell of a time getting cracking shots. To get those you need to be at your chosen spot on time, push (gently and politely..;-)) people around, position yourself carefully, be patient and chose your timing. Children simply don't work well in these conditions... just my 2 cents.</p>

<p>Thanks Marios</p>

<p>I couldn't get very near the finish, that was reserved for the pros. The children did restrict my options a lot (the youngest is only 5 and I can't take my eyes off her for long in a crowd), but I guess sometimes there are more important things than taking photos.</p>

<p>One lesson I learnt - I must train my wife to ensure she is not in a group when she approaches the camera!</p>

<p>Thanks for commenting</p>

<p>Chris</p>

Having a number of people around gives a real feel to the event. Otherwise, you could have just taken a photo of her alone on a street somewhere.