Scanning 6x7 negatives with Nikon coolscann 9000

<p>I have a problem getting my negative flat in the medium format holder, example see this scan. Nikon coolscan 9000 with standard middlefortmat holder.<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/9165092">http://www.photo.net/photo/9165092</a> the middle is sharp but the sides are not the the negative arches in the middle and no matter how hard I try to be carefull it never seems to be really flat some are better but I would like 9 or 10 out of 10 to be all in focus. Any tips would great. Many thanks Carl</p>

<p>I had the same issue with my LS 8000. My guess is that you won't be happy until you get a glass carrier- yes, they are offensively expensive and one should be included with the scanner:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/218837-REG/Nikon_9247_FH_869GR_120_220_Rotating_Film.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/218837-REG/Nikon_9247_FH_869GR_120_220_Rotating_Film.html</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/218836-REG/Nikon_9241_FH_869G_120_220_Strip_Film.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/218836-REG/Nikon_9241_FH_869G_120_220_Strip_Film.html</a></p>

<p>Hello Eric, many thanks I though that was probably the anwser. Have you got the glass holder or have you tried it. Regards Carl</p>

<p>Yes, I have the Nikon rotating glass carrier, and it works like a charm keeping film flat. The drawbacks are the $350 pricetag and that you'll want to keep the dust off not only the two sides of the film, but the four sides of glass as well. </p>

<p>I had the same problem with my LS8000, so I bought a glass carrier, but the new problem was Newton rings…<br /> Really hard to avoid so I've made a plastic film holder to put in between the glasses, it works fine now.</p><div></div>

<p>I see the following glass universall holder FH-869GR will this work for me or are there some hidden problems I should know about?</p>

<p>Hello Alan, I am glad I am not the only one with that problem. What a are Newton Rings. I the glass holder above a Nikon product? Regards Carl</p>

<p>Thanks Eric I posted to early, I think it sound like it worth it if the results are then good. The rest of the gear costs along with the time involved. Do you use any special cleaning fluid to keep the glass clean.</p>

<p>Another question a bit stupid but how do you keep the finger prints off your negatives. I am new to film. Do you use white gloves or tissue. Everytime I handle mine I have this problem even if I wash my hands and try to just hold the sides.</p>

<p>About the Newtons rings<br /> http://www.fas.harvard.edu/~scdiroff/lds/LightOptics/NewtonsRings/NewtonsRings.html<br /> I had this problem quite often, every 5 or 6 scans, when the film was in contact with the underneath glass.<br /> Yes, my film holder is a Nikon product, the FH 869 G, the blue thing is my hand made stuff.</p>

<p>The rotating holder is intended for use with long, narrow negatives like the XPan (24x63mm) or microscope slides. The rotatation feature allows you to straighten the film so that less cropping is needed to clean it up. However, only one frame can be scanned at one time, and only with one of the masks supplied with the holder.</p>

<p>The non-rotating glass holder is just as effective keeping film flat, and you can scan several frames in one batch - four 645, three 6x6, or two 6x7. It is also $100 less expensive than the GR holder.</p>

<p>You will get Newton's Rings any time the film touches the glass over a broad area (e.g., the arched center of the film). They will even occur with anti-Newton glass, clearly visible though fainter than against smooth glass. Only the top glass is etched for anti-Newton properties. The lower glass has an anti-reflection coating similar to that on a lens.</p>

<p>Film normally arches up (cups) with the center of the back higher than the edges. If you use a mask (supplied with the holder or home-made as above), use it on the high-side of the cup. If the film is buckled through careless handling or processing, the only options are to use the standard, glassless holder and hope for the best, or a fluid mount.</p>

<p>I use lens cleaner designed for plastic eyeglasses from Lenscrafters, followed by brushing to remove lint and finally a blast or two with canned air (or an oil-free airbrush compressor). I clean the holder and film each time I load the holder (brush or blast), and use washed cotton gloves (photofinishing) to avoid fingerprints.</p>

<p>1. I haven't experienced a Newton ring problem with the Nikon glass carrier.</p>

<p>2. Here's an example of Newton rings:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00AUfk">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00AUfk</a></p>

<p>3. I've never touched the carrier's glass surfaces, and have been able to keep the surfaces clean with dust-off.</p>

<p>4. I wash my hands before touching film to eliminate finger oils. And I handle film by the edges. When I do get crud or fingerprints on film, I clean the film with Edwal Film Cleaner:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/16678-REG/Edwal_EDAFC32_Anti_Stat_Film_Cleaner_Liquid_.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/16678-REG/Edwal_EDAFC32_Anti_Stat_Film_Cleaner_Liquid_.html</a></p>

<p>and PEC PADS:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71154-REG/Photographic_Solutions_PAD44DCS_Pec_Pad_Photo_Wipes_.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71154-REG/Photographic_Solutions_PAD44DCS_Pec_Pad_Photo_Wipes_.html</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>PEC-12 is also a good film cleaner:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71148-REG/Photographic_Solutions_PECQTDCS_Pec_12_Photo_Emulsion_Cleaner.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71148-REG/Photographic_Solutions_PECQTDCS_Pec_12_Photo_Emulsion_Cleaner.html</a></p>

<p>Hello Alan, Edward and Eric that is really comprehsive advise and helps me a lot. I thank you all.<br />I look forward to much more photography with my Mamiya. I was thinking of a 5D mk11 but decided on the Mamiya and Scanner it came out at about the same price and I already have a 5D. I just want to make some really large prints of the mountains views I have photographed in previous years in Murren the digital stuff is my portfolio murren folder. It a new purchase second hand from the internet. I am really enjoying my learning curve with it and have many ambitions for this year to get some great landscape shots up in the swiss mountains where I walk a lot. I know its a big heavy camera. but when I just pack this up in my rucksack. Its not so exstreme. I hope to be posting some great shots as I practice more. I am really impressed with the details and colours when shooting with this camera and film.<br />I had a problem with one of the magazines that was letting in light. It took me a few rolls to figure this out. I have given it to the local photo shot for a repair. Does anybody know if you can do that your self and what you use. That is the black seal sponge I see when I change the film its just on the hinge and behind the holder. One magazine is 100%.</p>

<p>Carl, I'm not sure what Mamiya back you're using, but if you Google search you will find threads on replacing foam in Mamiya backs, i.e.:</p>

<p><a href="http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/Mamiya-RB67/Light-seal/index.php">http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/Mamiya-RB67/Light-seal/index.php</a></p>

<p>Many thanks Eric that looks like mine I have an RZ Pro</p>

<p>Mr. Wakefield...</p>

<p>Buy medium format slide holder FH-869M 120/220 Mounted Film Holder for Nikon Super Coolscan 8000 & 9000 ED Scanners which is cheaper than a FH-869GR. Then use GEPE slide mounts part number 2701 with anti-newton glass to hold the film. </p>

<p>Tom Burke</p>

<p>For my Nikon 9000 and 6x7 negs, I purchased a pre-cut piece of AN glass from Focalpoint (http://www.fpointinc.com/) and just use the single glass sheet on top of the film in the standard holder supplied with the scanner - also tighten the large screw sufficiently to stop the one side moving. No Newton rings and 2 less surfaces to keep clean. I find with this I achieve acceptable flatness across the entire negative.</p>

<p>Also consider:<br>

<a href="http://www.aztek.com/NikonHolder.html">http://www.aztek.com/NikonHolder.html</a></p>

<p>or</p>

<p><a href="http://www.onecachet.com/product_line.php?cat=80">http://www.onecachet.com/product_line.php?cat=80</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>The depth of field of the LS-8000/9000 is so shallow, dust on the outside surfaces of the glass holder doesn't seem to matter.</p>

<p>I still recommend gloves. If you wash your hands sufficiently to remove skin oils, your fingers will become dry, white and easily cracked. You don't want to go there.</p>

<p>It's easy to align a film strip in the non-rotating glass holder. Use your hand to tap the edge you would like the film to move toward.</p>

<p>If your main objective is scanning, there's no point in mounting slides in any kind of mount, Gepe, anti-Newton or otherwise. That goes for 35mm too. In fact, once you see what can be done with negative film and a scanner, you may stop using reversal film altogether. Projecting slides isn't what it used to be (and never was).</p>

<p>I scan 6x8 (Fuji) and 6x4.5 (Mamiya) with the 9000 ED and I have found that the non-rotating glass holder is the way to go. Before I bought one I found i could get quite good results by using the supplied film acrrier and clamping the non- moving side of the film first. then if you inlock the moving side and clamp it carefully you can then tension the film across the holder and lock the moving side of the film holder. While this is not as good as the glass holder it is a pretty good solution and easier when dealing with dust.</p>

<p>The best solution that I've found is wet scanning with Lumina fluid from Scan Science. There are some examples on the web site, and Julio is really helpful.</p>

<p><a href="http://scanscience.com/">http://scanscience.com/</a></p>

<p>Hello everybody many thanks for all the answers and links. I decided on the FH-869GR the wet scan looks good but is a bit more expensive and I am happy scanning a single negative at a time. I was scanning some B/W last night and I found the Iflord Delta 3200 film is much thinker and lays 100% flat in the normal holder, the Portra VC 160 is thinner and this bows in the middle. Must say the answers and experise is really top here on photo.net.</p>

<p>Carl:</p>

<p>You can modify the stock holder to use glass, see:<br>

<a href="../digital-darkroom-forum/008Jf3">http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/008Jf3</a></p>

<p>Works very well; get the glass from focalpoint, about $20. FWIW I've tested using both anti Newton and clear glass. I see no difference in sharpness or contrast, but the clear glass sometimes has Newton's rings</p>

<p>I think Nikon's rotating glass carrier is excellent. Haven't had issues with interference patterns like Newton's rings either; with the exception of a handful images. The scanner is great for C41.</p>