Rolleiflex Prototype?

Hello!

I got this Rolleiflex 3.5 xenar recently.

It's serial number is 129 5216,

so it is a Rolleiflex K4A

 

After looking at maybe more than 100 K4A bodies, I suspect that this one might be a prototype.

The socket between the focusing dial and the film holder isn't available on any other K4A.

I don't know what it does, but it's there. The small pin on it can be pushed and it returns.

 

 

 

what do you guys think?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

 

Perhaps the camera had aftermarket flash sync added. I'm not sure, but that looks to me like an "ASA bayonet" flash socket.

Perhaps the camera had aftermarket flash sync added. I'm not sure, but that looks to me like an "ASA bayonet" flash socket.

 

Yeah, some Rollei 2.8F have those too, but they aren't available on these models. at least I cannot find any example. One RolleiF 2.8 prototype i have seen has this socket

Kadir, this is a bit off topic, and I apologize for that. But I'd love to know if you get good photos with your Rolleiflex. I just got a "5" intending to use it as a "point-and-shoot" because it's lighter than my regular rig. But of the couple of rolls I've developed so far, I've been dismayed to see that none of the photos are really CRISP. The photos are a bit soft-focus compared to my ancient Hassy. I'm not sure if the softness of focus is just because it was an inexpensive camera when it was made, or if perhaps the two lenses aren't synced properly. So I'd be very interested in your results with your Rolleiflex, if you don't mind. Thanks! --ken

Kadir, this is a bit off topic, and I apologize for that. But I'd love to know if you get good photos with your Rolleiflex. I just got a "5" intending to use it as a "point-and-shoot" because it's lighter than my regular rig. But of the couple of rolls I've developed so far, I've been dismayed to see that none of the photos are really CRISP. The photos are a bit soft-focus compared to my ancient Hassy. I'm not sure if the softness of focus is just because it was an inexpensive camera when it was made, or if perhaps the two lenses aren't synced properly. So I'd be very interested in your results with your Rolleiflex, if you don't mind. Thanks! --ken

 

 

Hey, it's fine I like to help.

I wish you mentioned the Rollie version you have, but I can make a rough guess.

If you have a Tessar 3.5, this problem is very common. Back in the day, rollie messed up the optic matching. It caused many (like thousands of) rollie tessar's with

unmatched taking lenses (bottom). It's not a surprised that your images are bad. Those lenses are faulty and CANNOT be repaired, they need to replaced.

 

I own 7 rollie's

3.5 Planar, Tessar opton, Xenotar, Xenar

and 2 2.8 Xenotar's.

Images I get from these are excellent, my personal favorite is the 3.5 Planar which beats any rollie lens ever produced because it has no visible distortion unlike 2.8 xenotar or the planar. My Rollie Tessar OPTON is superb too, I actually love to use it for portraits. The character of the optic suits portraits very well.

---

When Rollie messed up Tessar lenses so much, they produced the OPTON Tessar, which is the same thing but it guarantees that your optics are actually matched.

 

If your lens is something else, well you are probably out of calibration. If that is the case, your Rollie needs a maintenance. There is an easy way to check this too.

---

Set your focus to Infinity, check the focus, if the focus is sharp on the top lens, that means your viewing lens is calibrated. If it is soft, that thing needs some love.

 

After taking the photo, look if the images produced at infinity is sharp. If not, your top lens is out of calibration which is much easier to fix in my opinion.

 

hope this helps you

and, I also own a Hasselblad system. 3.5 planar or the xenotar beats my 80mm C T* hands down..

Edited April 30, 2017 by kadir_kirisci

But of the couple of rolls I've developed so far, I've been dismayed to see that none of the photos are really CRISP. The photos are a bit soft-focus compared to my ancient Hassy.

Take/cut a piece of ground glass to fit the film rails of the camera, not the backing paper rails. Substitute for a ground glass are a piece of plain glass or clear acrylic with strips of Scotch Magic Transparent tape next to each other. Place the ground side of the glass or tape side of the substitute toward the lens.

Place the camera on a tripod, open the aperture to wide open, focus on a infinity target at least 5000 feet away (the further the better) on the view screen (use the built in magnifier). Place the ground glass on the film rail and check the taking lens focus with the shutter locked open on B with a locking cable release or on T. Adjust the focusing screen height to correct any focus error.

Next focus on a target that is the marked minimum focus distance on the camera. Set the target by measuring from the film plane to the target. Check the focus on both the focus screen and taking lens.

Lens are rarely their marked focal length but are close. Lens cells can be matched so that two lens are within .1mm of one another. The greater the difference between the viewing lens and the taking lens the greater the focus error at close differences. A .1mm difference at 4 feet will likely be an inch or less, a 3mm difference will start showing focused distance error at 10 to 15 feet.

If the lens are mismatched as described in post 5 then set the focus screen for accurate focus at the distance range you plan to use the most.

If you have a Tessar 3.5, this problem is very common. Back in the day, rollie messed up the optic matching. It caused many (like thousands of) rollie tessar's with

unmatched taking lenses (bottom).

That was the Carl Zeiss JenaTessar 2.8 not the 3.5. /Ferdi.

But of the couple of rolls I've developed so far, I've been dismayed to see that none of the photos are really CRISP.

How far did you stop down? With Tessars you really have to stop down to f/8 and smaller (higher f/number) for crisp images. A fully opened Tessar is fit only for "flattering portraits". /Ferdi.

Gentlemen, first let me thank you for being so kind and helpful to a Rollei newbie. And second, let me apologize for being a moron, because I have a RolleiCORD, not a -flex. From the bit I've read, I gather these are two entirely different beasts, no?

 

My Rollecord point-and-shoot (a model 5, the man said), has a f/3.5 Xenar, which I suspect is mostly used for photographing warrior princesses. :-) I've had quite decent results with my three preceeding Yashica TLRs, and usually try to shoot at f/11 when I can. I may just not be familiar enough with it, or perhaps my presbyoptic eyes aren't up to focusing critically, especially with a finder that seems a bit dark and murky. (Perhaps the GG needs to be cleaned? It came from a smoker's estate, I could tell when I opened the box.) Anyway, many many thanks for your generous assistance! --ken

There is a free Rolleiflex TLR service manual available at Favorite Classics / Free Camera Repair Manuals

Read the introductory paragraph at the top of the page and use the login information in the box to access the download.

It covers the Rolleicord VA and VB. Models not covered by the manual will likely be of similar build.

I have a RolleiCORD

When you wrote you had a "5" I already guessed you owned a Rolleicord V. The Xenar is aTessar-type lens. The original screen is dim indeed, however I had no problems taking sharp pictures with my Rolleicord Va. I did use the magnifier when focusing. /Ferdi.

The Rollei newbie is back with an update; I think some of my lack of sharpness may have been the unfamiliar side-push of the shutter release on my Rolleicord. I just looked at another test roll, one in which I concentrated on using a camera rest and minimizing shake. The pictures aren't as soft as I thought they were on the first roll I looked at. It's still not exactly *crisp* but it's pretty decent. So, whoo-hoo!, new point-and-shoot (check light levels, set shutter and aperture, cock shutter, point, compose, focus, focus again, and shoot!) :-) My thanks to all of you for your input! I do believe this camera will be fun to use.