question regarding development of tmax (tmy) 400 shot at 1600

<p>hi,<br /> I have read many different opinions and would appreciate your input - what dilution and development times would you suggest for the best results with Kodak tmax (tmy)400 shot indoors at 1600? I am going to use Rodinal (I don't mind the grain and contrast) and the film will be processed on a Jobo cpa rotary processor. it is 135 film. Thank you!</p>

<p>Wrong developer for that. Only Perceptol and Microdol-X-alikes could possibly be worse. If you want to push and get a good measure of grain: Microphen, HC-110, D-76 (1+3). If you must use Rodinal: use it 1+100 at 24 deg Celsius. Good luck.<br />If you're in for pushin and intend to get grainy negs then use HP5+ or Tri-X or Kentmere400 or Orwo UN74 or Fomapan400 or Rollei/Agfa APX400. Or start with Delta3200 oder Tmax3200 rightaway.</p>

<p>Search "Lex Jenkins Microphen TMY 1600" on here to see gorgeous photos he's done in that mode as well as discussions. 9-12 minutes in stock solution Microphen, variable in relation to temperature, lighting conditions (low light more time, high contrast conditions less time), etc. </p>

<p>thanks for your responses. I did some more reading and although I somewhat like the results of tmax in rodinal, perhaps I will go with d76 or hc110. If I use these in the abovementioned proportion (1+3) - what "safe" development time would you suggest for shots taken in low light? If I understand correctly, developing with rotary processor requires ~15% less time, than manual agitation? thanks!</p>

<p>D-76 at 1+3 probably won't work well for pushing underexposed film. That dilution is usually intended for enhancing acutance with normally exposed film.</p>

<p>HC-110 should work well for pushing TMY to 1600.</p>

<p>No idea about rotary development, never tried it. The closest I've come is continuous agitation in a standard tank, but that was with normally exposed Efke R100 in Neofin Blue, which turned out overdeveloped and difficult to to print. With rotary tank push processing of underexposed film I'd be concerned about highlights becoming too dense and difficult to print or scan well, but that's just a guess since I haven't actually tried it.</p>

<p>Rather than mangle T-Max 400 at an exposure index of 1600, I'd shoot T-Max 3200 at 1600 and develop at the time and temperature Kodak recommends for ISO 3200. This combination gave me full shadow detail and negatives that were easy to print.</p>

<p>Lex, thank you very much.<br>

Jim, if I had tmax3200 at the time - I would have certainly used it the way you suggest. While in this case my options were pretty straightforward - either use tmax400 at 1600, or don't shoot at all. The problem is that although I have some experience in film development - I have always shot at box speed and never did any pushing. That's where all the dumb questions come from. </p>

 

<p>First you have to use a speed enhancing type developer (or at least box speed).<br>

Further you have to make a choice for a developer suitable for rotary development. In this way you can use for example HC-110 in a little bit more diluted solution.<br>

For HC-110 you can cut the inverse processing times by approx. -10%.<br>

Rodinal is a high acutance type developer based on para-Amino Phenol. With most films you will loose 1/3F stop on the regular iso rate. Further Rodinal is not suitable for rotary development because you will loose acutance in rotary, one of the advantages why you're going to use this developer.<br>

My suggestion: TMY-2 E.I. 1600 in HC-110 dil. B (1+31) or E (1+47). Alternative Xtol 1+1. Grain will be acceptable even in 35mm.</p>

<p>Real speed enhancing type: Microphen, DD-X, Acu-1, T-max.<br>

Tmax 3200 E.I. 1600 would be a better choice in Tmax developer but if you can not get it ......</p>

 

<p>Robert - thanks, all this info is very useful for me. Perhaps its an overkill to try two new things at a time (film pushing and rotary development), but I am too curious to resist. Got myself a pack of Microphen, so at least the developer part will be right. Hopefully I will have some examples to share.<br /> oh, and the last one - does anyone know what is the shelf life of a stock microphen solution kept in dark dry environment in a closed collapsible bottle? </p>

<p>Microphen: At least 6 months. Detailed info about this developer you can find on the Ilford/Harman website.</p>

<p>Microphen is the only powdered developer I still keep, mostly because it's not only excellent for pushing but also very good for normally exposed and developed T-Max 100. The stock solution will keep for at least six months, but in actual practice I mix up only a liter at a time and use it up long before six months.</p>

<p>But unless you're planning to push process several rolls, you might just try HC-110 for this one roll of pushed TMY. I used to use a lot of HC-110 for pushing Tri-X and found it generally satisfactory - certainly better than Rodinal or D-76 for pushing.</p>