john_mcdonald Posted May 10, 2003 Share Posted May 10, 2003 Is it okay to use an acid stop and fixer, such as Ilford rapid fixer, with Pyrocat HD, or is a combination of water stop and alkaline fixer a must? If the latter, how does one fully stop development of the first sheets out when developing by inspection? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandy_king Posted May 11, 2003 Share Posted May 11, 2003 In my own work there is little if any differnce in the final image stain between a plain water stop and a 1/2 strength acid stop bath. However, if you use the plain water stop make sure that you rinse in running water for about a minute, or change the water at least five times. I can't answer your question about the fixer since I always use an alkaline fixer, specifically the TF-3 fixer described in The Film Developing Cookbook. Sandy King Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_smith Posted May 11, 2003 Share Posted May 11, 2003 I tried water stop & alkaline fix and compared to the mild citric acid stop & Ilford rapid fix. I couldn't tell a difference in the final negatives or prints made from them. So, I go with the mild/weak acid stop bath & the Ilford Rapid Fix(Universal or Hypam here).<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed b. Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 My experience is similar to Dan's. I have heard a couple of people say that, using a water stop and alkaline fix, they get additional stain during the wash. I hope to do some tests on this sometime in the near future. One of the things I like best about Pyrocat-HD is that it does not produce a lot of non-image-forming stain like many pyrogallol developers do. I stopped doing a water stop and the after-fix developer bath with PMK because the stain I got didn't seem to do anything but increase my printing times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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