Pyro Developers

Hello every one. I am thinking about trying out a Pyro film

developer. I will be developing 4x5 Tmax 400, Tri-X, or Plus-X.

Well hear are my questions for all of you.

 

1) Is Pyro really and better than Rodinal or D76? These are my

current favorites.

 

2)Would it still be possible to process in my large daylight tank or

do I really need to tray process?

3) Any one who has used pyro have any tips?

very nice) looMy favorites are pyro/fp4+, tri-x or HP5+

 

I have tray developed, and used my HP combi with equally good results.

 

I prefer tray development because I can process more sheets at one time, and you can inspect negatives under a weak green safelight for a few seconds without much fear of fogging the film.

 

I wouldn't say that pyro is better than either developer, just different. I like pyro because I don't have to be nearly as concerned about blown out highlights as I do with most non staining developers. It's not going to turn a crappy picture into a great one, but it does go a long way in reducing burning and dodging during print sessions.

I have used much W2D2+ on AgfaAPX100, Classic200 and old emulsion Tri-X. Ah lahk it. It gives an amazing amount of zone definition top to bottom. I did a comparison with ClassicPan200 same shots, same time of day on sheet film and developed one sheet in Rodinal, one sheet in W2D2+. The differences in the BOTTOM end were amazing, the tops were what I had expected. I also think this developer on APX100 is truley amazing.

 

And I use homemade tubes in a Patterson System 3 tank, or in a homemade tank made out of black waste pipe (depending on size of sheetfilm). This keeps my development times the same as when I process 120 in stainless steel.

 

I think you need to try Pyro, in any form, for yourself.

 

tim in san jose

I've used both PMK and ABC pyro in trays and in tanks. I like it for Tri-X and other traditional films, but I don't see much reason to use it for T-Max or Delta. You have to work with it for a while, calibrate it to your process, and see if you like it.

 

Don't judge your first pyro negatives at sight until you print them. They will have more contrast than they seem to due to the stain. Once you've been developing in pyro for a while, you'll be able to assess them directly.

In addition to the other comments above. Do not use an acid stop bath, just just plain water. Also use an alkaline fixer like Photographers' Formulary's TF-4. An acidic fixer destroys the stain. I took a workshop from Gordon Hutchings (inventer of PMK) and these were his recommendations. Gordon will be teaching it again in September at PF.

 

At home I develop my pyro negs in a HP Combi tank. However, fill the tank first with the pyro developer, then put the negative carrier in and then put the lid on it. I was getting uneven development spots till I went to that procedure. The Combi tank just takes to long to fill through the valve on the lid.

 

What I just purchased is a sheet film developing tray from PF. I just need to get some 11x14 trays to use it with. I used one a Gordon's workshop and it gave me the most consistant negs yet.

I think there are two kinds of photographers who see improvements in their prints from developing their negs in a pyro developer;

 

1) The kind who see what they want to see

 

2) The kind who have very fine control of their process and can utilize the subtleties that staining developers offer.

 

I've been using ABC Pyro and HP5+ in 8x10 and really like the results I'm getting, but I can't say with any authority that I wouldn't like the results from non staining developers just as much ( count me in with group #1). I've only developed 4 8x10 negatives in non-staining developers, my first four; two in D-76 and the other two in Xtol.I liked the ABC negs and prints from them better, but then again I spent something like $30 on ABC Pyro, and I can't discount that psychological factor. I like dveloping by inspection, and pyro developers are especially well suited to that method as the tanning of the emulsion somewhat desensitizes it in the process. The thing with the ABC pyro is the grain is too large for enlarging, or so conventional wisdom suggests, and I've recently acquired an 8x10 enlarger, so I'd really like to develop my 8x10 negs in a developer that is suitable for enlarging without giving up the look I'm getting with ABC for contact printing. Pyrocat HD might seem a logical alternative, but I shoot mostly portraits in pretty flat light, and I don't know If I can get the same contrast with Pyrocat as I do with ABC. I've bought some desensitizer and plan to try Pat Gainer's vitamin C developer. The desensitizer is expensive, but the developer is cheap, so maybe I'll break even. If it works, I'll be able to use a much brighter light for inspection, and for a much longer period of time. My recomendation is to satisfy your curiosity and try a pyro developer. If you don't like it, I think D-76 and Rodinal will still be here when you're done.

I really like PMK and recomend you try it, however, I also am very pleased with the results I am getting with D-76. Things I like PMK for over D-76 is the sharpness and the Zone VIII values, I have some snow shots where the high values seem to hold much more texture than the stuff I have done in D-76. I also feel like the PMK negs are sharper.

There's much wisdom in the comments above- maybe pyro improves brain function in addition to what it does for negs ;-) My only comment concerns use and cleanup. Pyro as a raw chemical is very good at becoming an airborn dust, something you don't want to breath. Be sure to wipe up spills promptly and wash down surfaces when you're done. Keep your fingers out of the stuff. Other than that, you can use any processing method you'd use with any other developer.

Not sure what Jay is seeing but I see great differences in my highlights. To really appreciate the differences take a photo of clouds or fog. Pyro is unreal with how it shows the subtle nuances of gradation. It also provides the best edge effects of any developer I've ever used.

 

Another hint with pyro is to be meticulous in your methods. Pyro likes agitation. Gordon's recommendation was 5 secs every 15 secs.

 

Always use distilled water to mix it. It seems to be more suspectable to water quality issues. On PMK the normal mix is 1:2:100 Feel free to adjust the ratios to adjust contrast. For films like Bergger 200 (which stains beautifully in PMK) he often uses a 1.5:2:100 mix.

 

Use the liquid concentrates from PF and you won't have to deal with most the health hazards of pyro. I wear gloves when tray processing, but for tank I don't. Just be sure to wash your hand often.

I have tested Wimberly WD2D+. I have come to the exact same conclusion as Steve Allen in regard to outstanding highlights, required care to sufficient agitation (WD2D+ really does need 15 secs per each 30secs, using distilled water, and wearing gloves.)

Pyro is outstanding. Also be aware of health risks, never touch the liquid and I use a mask to avoid gasses released while developing. Continued small amounts ingested ststemically can mess you up. But with the right precautions, it's unmatched. It has varing effects for different films. good luck

I have been using Pyro for about 6 years now (switching from Rodinal) with Ilford Delta

400, rated at 200 and I swear by it. As mentioned on previous responses, do not judge

your negs on first inspections, they will appear thin and flat, but can print a complete

range of tones, with particular detail in the highlights, even if using a multicontrast paper.

Agitation is important, 5 sec every 30 sec. Too much and you will lose acutance, too little

and you will get streaking. I have recently tried it in a Doran 5x4 tank and I am having a

few problems with uneven development but I have also had this problem with Xtol. I would

be interested to know how you get on.