Portaits for swim team

<p>I may have an opportunity to shoot Individual and team portrait for a local high school swim team. I will be discussing with the coach soon so it's not a given yet. I would like to start to be prepared for shooting individual portaits in the pool area now so I am ready if/when the time comes.</p>

<p>I know little to nothing about lighting these situations, lighting anything really since I mostly do action shots and never use flash for that. I did ask for "Light, Science Magic" for Christmas so I will be reading that ASAP. But in the meantime I wanted to ask what is the bare minimum I am going to need equipment wise. I intend to shoot with no backdrop, I will select a location in the pool area that I feel looks best.</p>

<p>As most know high school pools are poorly lit and have walls and ceilings not really adept at bouncing light. I have a Nikon D300 and an SB600. I have no diffuser or reflectors, or stands. Obviously if this goes through and I feel it will pay decent I am up for buying something upfront that will help. I would like to keep that under $200. As far as lenses I have 85 1.8, 35 1.8 and 80-200 2.8.</p>

<p>So my question is what would I need as far equpiment, I'm looking to not stand there with the SB600 aimed directly at them, but also I am not looking to bring in anything more than one stand with softbox or umberella. I could get a helper to hold a reflector. Second question is layout of umbrella/softbox(if neccessary) and reflector. Any websites I can look at for basic layouts of portrair lighting like this?</p>

<p>Thank You very much. Any answers are appreciated.</p>

<p>Do you already have a reflector? If so, you could have your helper hold the reflector in one hand and the flash in the other (pointed at the reflector), and you further back taking the photo with whichever lens you prefer (85mm for tighter crop or 35mm if you want to include more of the 'venue') I don't use Nikon, but understand most have CLS to control the flash off-camera so you don't need wires from camera to flash or radio triggers. That would be the 'minimal' approach. I'd suggest getting just one light stand for your flash and have your helper hold the reflector as being more user-friendly to the helper.</p>

<p>Brian -</p>

<p>A simple solution is a lightbox defuser - attaches to the flash and costs about $35.00 - best thing is you don't need an assistant to hold it. I shoot with mine pointed up at a 45 degree or a 90 degree angle - that way the flash acts more like an area / arena flash. </p>

<p>Works like a champ - I've done quite a few teams and individuals -</p>

<p>One more thing - shoot in raw - it's easier to fix wb later!</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

You might not need anything but maybe a powerful flash. Most swiming pool areas are very well lit.

<p>First off, the flash alone will not be enough.</p>

<p>If you want to economize, your best bet is to go with a lightstand, umbrella adapter, combo shoot-thru/reflective umbrella, and a 5-in-1 collapsible reflector. Altogether that should easily fit under $200. Since you're using the SB-600, you can trigger the flash remotely using your onboard flash on the D300 and avoid having to buy a sync port adapter for the flash. This way you can bounce the flash off/thru the umbrella and soften the light, and fill with the reflector.</p>

<p>Alternatively, you can put the flash up on the stand, and use the diffuser panel of the 5-1 reflector and spread the light that way. At this point its just a personal choice. But either way, you need to create a larger light source so that your portrait light is both diffuse and directional. Simply using an on-flash diffuser will spread the light everywhere, which may or may not work depending on the walls, but even if it does, the light tends to be quite flat. You'll also need to drag the shutter, depending on what the background is and how much of it you want to show.</p>

<p>You can look at, among many others, Joe McNally's site - I think his most current entry shows him doing a one-flash portrait shoot, using just a reflector/diffuser and SB-900.</p>

<p>

<p >Hi Brian,</p>

<p >You have a challenging assignment. Here are my suggestions based on your existing equipment, plus some minor ‘stuff’ like poster board reflectors (see diagram).</p>

<p ><strong>1. Location</strong></p>

<p >Go to the pool and select a location for group and individual shots. Your choice should consider:</p>

<p >a.<em> Locations of ceiling lights</em> – These will be your main lights. Your location should not cause them to project bad shadows on your subjects’ faces.</p>

<p >b. <em>Background</em> – Try to have something behind your subjects. Ideally it should not be ugly nor brighter than your subjects</p>

<p >c. <em>Heights</em> – Depending on the size of the group/team, it might be helpful to elevate the back rows and/or you for the shot.</p>

<p ><strong>2. Light Sources</strong></p>

<p >a. <em>Main and Diffuse - </em>Your SB600 by itself probably isn’t adequate for use as a main light. And, since the overheads may be the main light won’t throw much light onto the faces, consider using reflectors (large white poster boards) to bounce the ceiling light onto the faces. </p>

<p >b. <em>Fill - </em>Use your SB600 with a softbox as fill flash to remove the shadows from the subject’s faces</p>

<p ><strong>3. White Balance</strong></p>

<p >Several considerations: </p>

<p >- The overheads are probably either fluorescent or sodium vapor, neither of which are good for photography. </p>

<p >- The color of the pool (aqua?) will be reflected in the photos.</p>

<p >- The color of the light from the flash will be different from the ambient light.</p>

<p ><em>Solution</em> – Pre-set the white balance. Alternatively, set your camera’s white balance on ‘fluorescent’ and place a green fluorescent gel on your flash.</p>

<p >Good luck,</p>

<p >Phil</p>

</p><div></div>

<p>Hi again Brian,<br>

I forgot to mention that you should use your 85mm f/1.8 lens for the individual shots and your 35mm f/2.8 lens for the group shots.<br>

Phil</p>