Pole Dance Photography

<p>Hello, <br /><br />I am just starting in the photography world. I do pole fitness, and there aren't a ton of pole fitness photographers out there, and even fewer articles on how to shoot pole photography. The pole world is the niche I want to get into, and I want to begin by practicing shots with my friends. However, I have absolutely no idea of where to begin for photography. I have a pole in my home that I'm planning to use to get going with the photography. I have about a 14'x16' space that I'll be shooting in, with the pole in the center. I have found that I generally shoot at about 20-24mm focal length. I have a very basic lens with the widest aperture being f3.5 (yes, I know, I need something that opens wider once I start doing this professionally, but right now, I'm more concerned with lighting). <br /><br />I honestly am not sure where to begin with lighting. I keep reading up on dance photography but none of it seems to specifically address what to do in a portrait session with people spinning around poles (shocker). I know I need an off camera flash. I don't know how many. I can't tell if I'm supposed to use an umbrella, a softbox, an octobox, if I need reflectors, or pretty much anything because nobody talks about it. Pole photography requires an extremely fast shutter speed, and because I have such an annoying aperture to work with, I really just need thoughts on what would be the best lighting. The kinds of pictures I want to aim for would be like this: <br /><br /><br>

<img src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/13/e4/06/13e4066def7d4c040ff14064ceea5954.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="960" /><br>

I recognize that where I place the light will obviously change the shadows, but I'm basically just looking for white background, crisp images of the dancers. Please let me know anything you can think of that would be a good set-up, both lights and any reflectors/grids/anything you think would be good to have. <br /><br />Thank you so, so much for any help/advice!<br /><br />Steph</p>

<p>IMO, on the model-one light each side at 45 degrees, with reflector.<br>

On the white background-one light each side each with some form of wide angle reflector, set at 1-2 stops brighter than the lights on the model.<br>

A flash meter to help setting up.<br>

Infrared or radio flash trigger.<br>

Assuming you can get the camera about 6 ft away some kind of zoom 20-35mm , there is less distortion at longer focal length.<br>

If cash is a limitation the project could be done with inexpensive Yongnuo or similar flashguns rather than studio strobes.</p>

<p>To begin with, you'll be needing flash equipment, in order to be able to capture the dancers while they're moving ( I have experience with shooting dance and catwalk, and therefor am in a position that it's obviously impossible to ask a dancer/model to 'hold' a position mid movement in order to focus, adjust the lighting etc). Depending on your finances those flash units can be speedlights, or studio units like eg monoblocs.</p>

<p>Speedlights are relatively cheap, and have the advantage of very short flash duration times. But you'll be needing multiple, powerful, units and complementary batterypacks to be able to still get fast recycle times when you're shooting with your aperture closed down, or if your lens isn't fast (like the 3.5 lens you're having right now).<br>

So in the end the total costs can easily get as high, or even higher, then buying studio flashes (especially if you get cheapo Chinese units, which I BTW recommend to be very careful with, considering the often reported problems with their built quality).</p>

<p>Studio units are nice, especially since they come with modelling lights, which will enable you to see beforehand what your lights are doing (and how the shadows will look like). But as said, good ones don't come cheap, and you'll need powerfull ones; not so much for the output at full power, but rather because when you dial the flash settings lower, the recycle times (and consequently duration of the flash) will get faster/shorter, and better 'freeze' the movement of the dancer (yes, there are 'special ultra fast' studio flash units on the market, but that feature comes at a premium).</p>

<p>The whole 'umbrella, softbox,o ctobox' thing really isn't that important. At the moment octoboxes are rage, and seem, based on the opinion of the internet experts the 'must have's'. But a couple of years then same was said about softboxes (vs umbrellas). A bit surprising, since the only difference basically is the shape, rectangular vs octagon (sure there is a difference in light fall off in the corners, but tht's not really relevant for the lighting of a wide area you'll be after).<br>

For the photography you describe for starters you'll just be needing light modifiers that give a wide evenly distributed light. IMO overthinking about grids etc is a bit premature, since I have the impression you don't have any experience with studio lighting, and first have to learn the basics. <br>

And the easiest light modifiers to begin with are simple umbrella's, cheap (so you won't afterwards regret having blown a ton of money on what maybe turned out the wrong choice), and easy to work with (give a lot of evenly spread light, so less issues with unwanted shadows) and are easy to handle and transport (Just fold them open, or fold them closed, try that with a softbox)<br>

Even despite the fact I have a number of studio flash units (Bowens, Hensel) with all the 'mandatory' accesories (softboxes. snoots, grids. barnsdoors) at my disposal, I still rely on the experience I have gathered in the past shooting (on film) with 'simple' halogen tungsten lights with umbrellas eg http://www.pbase.com/paul_k/image/61052707</p>

<p>I can't look into your wallet, but my suggestion would be two (preferably) studio flash units with umbrellas for the 'frontal' lighting of the model, two flash units (studio would be nice, but speedlights might do the job just as good) for the lighting of the background.<br>

Of course some kind of reflection screen always comes in handy (in the beginning simple styrofoam shelves from your local DIY market are more then enough).<br>

And don't forget you'll be needing lightstands for your flash units as well. Since you'll be shooting inside, no need for fancy radio triggers. You can trigger on flash unit with a cable or a cheapo 'dumb' radio trigger (no need for TTL steering) and trigger the other units via an optical slave (studio units have a built in cell most of the time, just like the higher end speedlights. Otherwise you can find such optical triggers for e.g. under US $ 7 a piece on the internet)</p>

<p>But before getting al that equipment I would rather read up on studio lighting, and in particular the kind of lighting you want, first, plenty of 'tutorials' on that around on the net, eg https://photoflex.com/pls/the-pure-white-background-done-right (not affiliated with them in any way or form)</p>

<p>HTH</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Since you are just starting, try with one light first.It won't give the result you illustrate but will give a good idea where lights need to be added.I suggest the following:<br>

Portable light stand,bracket to fit on top to hold umbrella,white shoot through umbrella,Yongnuo 560 or later manual flash,inexpensive radio trigger (non ttl) transmitter and receiver.</p>

I have done sports for years. I shoot large swim meets. I can get great shots without flash. I have used on

camera flash at weddings also for years. I also have studio lights. I would start simply with one of these new lcd

lights and see what happens. It depends on what you want. High key like above or actually shoot action. I shoot

in large pools where the white balance and actual light are varied. I get decent pictures. My camera is a Canon

7DII that shoots ten frames a second. I think you could get some dramatic action by shooting actual excersises

where shadows come into play. These would call for constant light and judicious use of ISO. You would need

about 1/500th or preferably faster. Faster is better. If you use flash you would the capture action of someone

moving through and exercise. I am not saying this is the right way but if it were me I sure as would try it before as

a new comer experimenting with external flash.

<p>Hi Stephanie--what equipment do you have now (camera/lenses)? Do you have any lighting equipment now (flash--other than what may be built into your camera)? How is the room lit now--i.e., do you have any window light that you can take advantage of as well (assuming you can use it and not worry about having to draw the blinds to prevent sidewalk on-lookers)? Is this one big room with lots of empty/blank wall space that you can take advantage of -- both for the plain background and reflecting light, or are there doorways, widows, furniture on those walls? How high is the ceiling? If it is at a standard 8', you might be pressed for vertical space when going for a clean look (without floor and ceiling). Are you looking to shoot elsewhere as well -- where you might want to consider equipment that can be easily packed up and transported as needed?</p>