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Petroglyph photography tips


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<p>Recently I have been doing some photography of petroglyphs (images pecked into rock faces) and am having difficulty getting some of the more faint images to come out. Has anyone used any special technique to get this kind of image to stand out. I don't think I have to say this but going over the images with chalk is not an option-it is a hanging offense. Attached is a picture of what I am talking about. The Indian is life size </p>
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<p>There's no attached image. My limited experience years ago was that lighting was crucial, depending on the orientation....early morning or late afternoon. The reason is that you want shadow detail to contrast outlines with the lighter portions. Sometimes not shooting straight on, but from a side can accomplish this. For me it wasn't terribly different from photographing old tombstones.</p>
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<p>I would think working on it in post-processing is where you're going to get the best results. See a quick-and-dirty edit attached. For best results when increasing contrast in post, shoot RAW rather than JPEG.</p>

<p>Also, can you get the camera higher so you're looking at the image dead on?</p><div>00X7xR-271821584.jpg.e770112a70705534d3f334748d14a687.jpg</div>

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<p>Pola filter might sometimes help (just use a neutral one, not of a "warming" variety) but above all get a few large foldable reflectors (neutral white, silver), for instance Lastolite, to direct or equalize light (large surfaces are often unevenly lighted.) You may also try sensible HDR processing.</p>
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<p>There is generally quite a bit of glare on these walls when they are in more open areas and using a polarizer can certainly help. I have shot most of mine with b/w film over the years and various color filters--often a cyan/blue--which deepens the reds/yellows of the desert varnish--sometimes the light areas are very yellow and cyan will work better as the more blue filters will darken the yellows too much.</p>

<p>With modern digital cameras, the polarizer can help at times, but so can some post work with something like selective color in PS to darken the reds and oranges and lighten the lighter areas--combine this with the selective use of other post tools to get to the contrast and saturation that works for you.</p>

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<p>Rocks have a surprising amount of specular reflection. A polarizer and a tripod would be the best tools. Dynamic range is not a issue, so HDR would not help. There's no relief of note - these figures are simply scribed through the desert varnish.</p>
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<p>L J, when I was in Moab, UT in April I saw a TV presentation on the local Canyonlands channel, and a few days attended one of his (Bud Turner's) talks in town at the visitor center. Interesting combination of techniques, and it seems to work well. Watch this:<br>

http://www.cnha.org/discoverypool.cfm?mode=detail&id=1268176243671</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

TH</p>

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<p>I shot a few pictures of rock art stumbling around in Arizona. Here is the rules I follow.<br>

1. Don't do anything to the object other than splash some water on it. No chalk, not rubbings! Anything like that hurts the art. Same for grave stones. Don't do it.<br>

2. Shoot at the golden hour even a little shadow brings out detail<br>

3. Bracket like crazy<br>

4. Be respectful of property owners rights ask permission first, especially if you are on an Indian Reservation. The tribe can take your equipment and you can't do anything about it if you piss them off, even accidentally. <br>

It is not widely known that some rock art is being created today by First People, it is religious in nature and should be bypassed, which is the reason why you need to ask first if you are on a reservation, they will tell you where not to go or to not go at all. Heed what you are told.<br>

You can practice for rock art by shooting grave stones and brick walls. <br>

Good luck lots of fun and some amazing art.</p>

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