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Neutral density filter advice


jerry_m

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<p>I'd like to try an 8x nd filter, but am not sure which way to go. I have the Cokin P holder and hood with various adapters, but am not sure if I should try the Cokin filter or just get a round screw in type from Vivitar' I've seen ads for a Vivitar series 1 set with the nd, cp filters at a very good price but am a bit leery about their quality. I would be using the filters on a Tamron 18-270 or a Nikon 18-105 lens and they have different thread sizes. Getting the screw in types would require either 2 filters or a step up ring. Obviously this would be for landscape photography. <br>

I would like to hear from any one with actual hands on experience with these 2 filters. <br>

Thanks for any advice Jerry</p>

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<p>I'd go with the screw-in filters and buy an ND for your largest diameter lens and step-up rings for the rest. I don't have experience with the Vivitar filters but I'm willing to bet they aren't B+W quality. Almost all ND filters will create a color cast to some degree and it is usually more pronounced the higher the density of the filter. The more expensive ones do a better job of taming it though. It's usually something that is correctable in post-processing however. Reduction in sharpness and flare are the two things I would be more concerned about. B+W make excellent filters but I have been using the Hoya multi-coated ND filters and am happy with the results.</p>
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<p>Thank all of you for your responses. I appreciate your input. Based on every thing I read, I'll skip the Cokin (more afraid of scratching it ]) and go with a screw in type. I've used Hoya filters for years and have been satisfied with the results, so will probably go that route in a ND at least to start. Thanks again . Jerry</p>
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<p>If you just need to knock down exposure, I agree with using screw-in, and with buying one big enough for your largest lens and then using adaptors for smaller lenses. Hoya should be fine. But why do you want to "try" an ND? You say "obviously this would be for landscape photography," which implies that maybe you're looking for a graduated ND. If that's the case, it's much easier to work with square or rectangular filters like Cokin so you can adjust where the graduation between light and dark falls in the photo.</p>
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<p>Thanks Craig. My use of the word "landscape" was perhaps. a bit too broad. I want to experiment with some long exposures and also try to blur the background on sunny outdoor images of flowers and plants. I will be using the graduated nd for more of the broader landscape shots. I appreciate your advice. </p>
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<p>If you're just experimenting and not certain about committing to getting much use from an ND, the Cokins are a reasonable compromise. Over the years I've acquired a dozen or so Cokins just for that purpose - effects I wanted to experiment with before deciding to commit to a better quality version of the same filter. The quality isn't bad and my 2x ND filter is reasonably neutral.</p>

<p>The plastic "resin" seems like it should be soft and fragile but it's remarkably tough stuff. So far I've scuffed only one Cokin in 20 years with careless handling - I think it was a sepia or tobacco filter, not something I used often anyway, and the scuff didn't show in the photos. And when I tried to modify a Cokin diffusion filter by drilling through it the darned thing was much tougher than I'd expected.</p>

<p>The main trick to using Cokins - and any sheet filter - is a good hood or makeshift shade. They're very prone to flare. Cokin's clip-on hoods allow light between the rear of the hood and the filter(s). And the adjustable bellows type hood/matte boxes are very expensive. I often use a hat to screen out the sun. Also, be sure to close the viewfinder eyepiece blind, or use something to block it. Some photographers report odd artifacts and other problems from using any ND or dark filters with long exposures, often due to light entering the eyepiece. I have to shut the eyepiece blind on my dSLR to get accurate exposures with ND, IR and some combinations of stacked filters for long exposures in daylight.</p>

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