Manual focus body - first timer

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by raymondc, Feb 25, 2010.

  1. Hi

    I bought a FM2N mid way 2009 and have been too busy until now. Question. The shutter dial is full stop right? The aperture ring can be half stops?

    I am getting a cable release soon to do long exposures ...

    Cheers.
     
  2. The aperture ring has clicks at full stops, but you can set it anywhere between the clicks. The FM2N shutter is settable at full stops only. AFAIK, the only mechanical shutters that are continuously variable are the F2 at speeds faster than 1/80 s and the FM3A electromechanical shutter on auto.
     
  3. Ray,
    yes, the shutter speeds are full stop. You can set the aperture ring to intermediates, but the clicks are full stop as well.
    Christoph
     
  4. Thanks.
    One issue I found. If I set my values to balance the camera's meter to a particular ISO. If I change from ISO 50 to 100, that is 1 stop away and look in the viewfinder - why do I see a 0 and + sign? I would of thought that was meant to be a full stop difference - hence a + sign. Or is this because of accuracy when I am using the aperture ring?
    I would bracket some frames and see how it goes.
     
  5. +1 Exposure compensation ?
     
  6. I was expecting a +1 EV required.
    For example. I might of set it as f/8 1/8 at ISO 200. If I change that to ISO 100 or 400. That is a 1 stop difference. I only saw a 0 and either a - or a + meaning under 1 stop. I was expecting a - or a +.
    Is that because I was using partial stops on my aperture ring, that the camera meter was not as accurate?
    It seems to happen regardless if I was in ISO 400 and I bumped it to 200 or 800. Or 50 going to 100 or 25.......
     
  7. I am assuming because I used partial stops on the aperture ring. I might of been 1/3 or 2/3 into it, add a tolerance of 1/3 stop, maybe it is not too bad ....
     
  8. So, what you are seeing is listed on the following page, under the heading "Exposure Display"
    http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index3.htm
    0+ means over exposure of 1/5th to 1 full stop. A + means over one stop.
    This is not, as I guessed earlier, exposure compensation.
     
  9. Ok thanks John. I thought + was 1 stop. And I thought 0 + was under 1 stop.
    Another issue. If I set my D70 to ISO 200. I also set the FM2N to ISO 200. The FM2N reads f/5.6 1/15. But the D70 reads f/8 1/15.
    I would def shoot more frames and bracket and chec it out. Since I bought it, this is the first time I am trying it out ......
     
  10. I really dunno. Just tried it again now, I framed the whole frame of my drapes. Same settings on both but the FM2N said 0 -. So that could any where how little up to 1 stop. I will shoot some frames to check out ..... Just going around in circles.
     
  11. What meter setting are you using ? The D70 has Matrix metering as well as Center Weighted and maybe Spot. The FM2N has Center Weighted, and maybe Spot. Even the amount of the "center" each camera uses, in Center Weighted may be different. I was trying to quickly find the specs on the meter methods on the FM2 and didn't see it. You can point them both at a simple blue sky, where it doesn't matter what metering mode you are in and see.
     
  12. Remember, 0- is anything from 1/5th to a full stop underexposed. The difference between 1/5th and dead on is pretty small. That is the problem with a -0+ exposure reading. You just don't know how far off it is.
    You can find out, by setting the shutter the same as you D70, then slowly rotating the aperture ring on the camera. If the meter goes to 0 between the stop clicks on the lens, it's less than a full stop. The less you have to rotate the ring, the less it was under or over exposed.
     
  13. The D70 is set to CW meter to match the FM2N. I framed it at 35mm pointed to blue sky without clouds....
    I set both cameras at ISO 200 at shutter 1/60.
    The FM2N requires between f/11 and f/16 to balance out to get a "0" reading. On the D70 when I select f/11 or f/16 it provides a +1EV or +2EV. I was in manual mode.
     
  14. The FM2 has only center-weighted metering - and it is the classical Nikon 60:40 for inside:eek:utside the 12mm diameter ring. The D70 has 75/25 and the diameter of the center is variable - the default is 8mm. This might account for the observed differences in exposure values. Furthermore, exposure values on a DSLR are also influenced by the color space selected - at least I have made the experience that the histogram changes substantially when I change from sRGB to AdobeRGB.
     
  15. Does it matter if I photographed the blue sky that was a uniform throughout the whole frame? And the difference I assume was 1 stop difference. I think when I used my F100 in CW it was on par with the D70.
     
  16. AFAIK, providing that the entire frame is equaly exposed, the results should be the same. Is only when ussing matrix metterin when the colors are being considered.
    Are you sure there is no exposure BIAS in the D70?
     
  17. Don't over think the FM2's meter. Just get out and shoot a few rolls with. The FM2 has classic center weighted metering and it will not meter correctly for all situations. A white dog in the snow for example will be underexposed and the resulting slide will be a dull grey. A black dog in a coal bunker with be over exposed and the resulting slide will be too light. No two camera meters will read the same the D70 probably underexposes a bit to preserve highlight detail and the FM2 meter is somewhat crude compared to todays modern matrix metering cameras.
     
  18. Ray - [​IMG], Feb 26, 2010; 12:32 a.m.
    Another issue. If I set my D70 to ISO 200. I also set the FM2N to ISO 200. The FM2N reads f/5.6 1/15. But the D70 reads f/8 1/15.​
    Keep in mind Ray, that no two meters will always agree. Also, it depends on the scene. Center weighted metering like the FM2N may read a scene differently than a matrix metering camera like the D70.
    I had an non-N FM2 as a back up for my F2's for mayn years and loved it. It is a solid, very well built body and if you can find them, you can get interchangeable focusing screens for it. Try to find an MD-12 motor for it too, you can get them pretty cheaply on Fleabay and they do improve the handling a good bit, plus you can also find a vertical shutter release for it that plugs right into the motor. I had one and they came in very handy.
     
  19. I'll shoot a roll of and see how it goes.
    What I have consistently noticed is that if I frame my drapes the FM2N is overexposing 1EV vs my D70 and F100. I am in manual mode and I don't use compensation. If I frame a brown wooden door then they are the same.
    John Shaw has talked about calibrating the manual focus bodies meter. He also said that if you fill the frame or use a telephoto lens then you can mimmick a spot meter .....
     
  20. If I remember correctly, somewhere on Thom Hogan's website there is a review in which he says that FM2Ns overexpose by around 2/3 of a stop.
     
  21. That makes sense then. The D70 and F100 I have read that it underexpose to preserve highlights, lets assume 1/3 stop. If the FM2N overexpose 2/3 then the 1 stop is consistent. What I have noticed is that some scenes do and some do not .. that might be how it is designed to read diff scenes ......
     
  22. I read Thom's article. He does say the FM2N overexposes. He uses 0 - reading. That by Nikon is a 1/5 to a 1 stop underexposure ...
     
  23. david carroll wrote: "AFAIK, the only mechanical shutters that are continuously variable are the F2 at speeds faster than 1/80 s and the FM3A electromechanical shutter on auto"
    Also any of the Leicaflexes except between 1/4 and 1/8 and between 1/30 and 1/60, and any camera with a Copal Square shutter at any speed faster than 1/125 sec. such as a mechanical Nikkormat.
     

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