A friend asked me to look at a Mamiya C33 that appears to be inoperative. The winding crank works but it won't cock the shutter, and although I can manually cock the shutter the shutter on the side of the lens the lens release button won't travel far enough to release it. I guess something is jammed, but what?
Unless the price of this camera is VERY cheap I'd forget about it and find a better one. As far asI know, the ELM cameras are not easy to repair these days.
After a little research (Freytag) I discovered that this filter appears to be similar to the Rolleisoft and older (uncoated) Duto filters, which utilize concentric rings moulded into them, designed to give a soft, halo-like effect.
I'm wondering. what the 63mm diffusion filter for the Hasselblad 50mm C lens and early SWC looks like compared to the Softars, which I don't really care for. Any experience with these?
How should I go about metering a strongly back-lit translucent subject for black and white film? Using my RB67, I need to include the brightly lit but out of focus background as well as more dimly lit glass objets in the foreground. Thanks for your help.
I think something like that must have happened the last time I took the lens off the camera. I would not attempt a DIY fix, even though I'm "stuck in the field" here in northern New Mexico.
I've recently obtained a PD metered chimney finder for my RB67 Pro SD, but can't figure out how to set the maximum aperture for the lens in use. Oddly enough, I can't find instructions for this anywhere on the net. If anyone has a copy of these instructions I would love to have a look. .
I see on the internet that this is not an uncommon problem, but there are no definitive answers. I'll try releasing and re-cocking the shutter a few times.