bob_king2 Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Hi In my search for a long shelf life general-purpose developer for FP4 and HP5 inboth 35mm and 120, I've decided to give HC-110 a serious try. Up till now I'vebeen using Rodinal 1:50 - great for FP4 but not as successful for HP5 (for me). I've decided to use HC-110 dilution H so as to give more development time(double dilution B times) but I would like some input regarding times andagitation. I've read that its best not to agitate HC-110 too much - I want topreserve highlights with shadow detail. I've checked the Massive DevelopmentChart but I'd like to hear from people who use this combination of film anddeveloper. I use plastic tanks and develop at 20 deg C (68 deg F). I'mparticularly interested in agitation regimes as well as the times. Cheers, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yann1 Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 One inversion every minute regarding the time given by the Massive Development Chart, (10 minutes for dil H) that works fine with HP5, this combo is what I use most of the time. Yes, Rodinal and HP5 don't match Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Rodinal is OK for FP4+, though definitely not among my favorite brews for this film. And rest assured that you are not alone in your distaste for the the HP5+/Rodinal combination. There are more than a few people who don't like the combination, though you'll probably never hear much of that in this forum. It is in my estimation, right up there in the top 10 things to avoid in the darkroom. HC-110 isn't too bad. though it would not be my first choice for preserving detail at both ends of the scale either. The developer was designed for the press photographer who needed speed, convenience, and good keeping qualities more than the ultimate image quality. You can make it work, but the results will never be as smooth as they would be with D-76/ID-11, or XTOL. Ilfotec HC is a virtual clone of HC-110, so I'd suggest that you start out by reading the tech sheets for HP5+ and Ilfotech HC that are available from the manufacturer. Then read the tech sheet for HC-110. Start with that information and make adjustments to one variable at a time until you to where you want to be. This can take a few tries, but no one ever said this was going to be a walk in the park either. Minimal agitation is, in most cases, a big crock of you know what. You need to agitate vigorously and often enough to wash away the byproducts of the development process. Failure to do so will result in streaking and uneven development. Links to the documentation follow: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130203552943.pdf http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2007321132461251.pdf http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 HC-110 is very easy to get along with. Do everything pretty much by the book and you'll get great results. While it may seem cliched it's nonetheless true: Shadow detail is determined by exposure. Expose HP5+ at 250-400, FP4+ at 64-125, (depending on the quality of the light) and avoid underexposure. Highlights won't be a problem. Just agitate normally, avoid overdevelopment. With HC-110, as with most common developers, the risk of overdevelopment comes from too much time in the soup, not so much from agitation technique. Unless you're talking about continuous agitation, there's very little risk. Twist paddle agitation is fine for plastic tanks and reels. Paterson and the Spanish made plastic tank/reel systems have a little bump in the bottom that mates with the spindle to cam the reels up and down while also twisting side to side. It's a very thorough form of agitation and in my experience with many films and developers, normally exposed and pushed, it works just as well as inversion. Avoid under-agitating. Either twist fairly vigorously or twist steadily for 10-15 seconds every minute. I have some arthritis in my right hand so I tend to agitate smoothly for longer times rather than more vigorously. Works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_elder1 Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Here's how I develop HP5 + in Hc-110. I use 5 reel Patterson tanks. I use 50(ounces) parts distilled water to 1 part(ounce) HC-110. This is sometimes referred to as dilution "E". This 51 ounces fillls the Patterson 5 reel tank. I develop at 68 degrees for 7 minutes using inversion agitation 5 seconds every 30 seconds. I rate the Hp5+ at EI 320. Using distilled water allows you to develop anywhere in the world without having to worry about different water creating different development times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_elder1 Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Forgot to add the film is processed for printing with a cold loght. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_w. Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 For a while I almost exclusively shot HP5 Plus and developed in HC-110 dil. H. I developed for 10' at 24C with 2-3 inversions per minute. The results were always very reliable. Your mileage may vary, so all you can really do is try it for yourself with some non-critical rolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fernando_garcia4 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Hi. I use the combination of Ansel Adams in his book "The negative": I expose Hp5+ at 160, developed with 1+31 (dil. B) for 6.5 minutes at 20C degrees. In "the negative", Ansel Adams just recommends dilution H when you are looking for a compensating effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sg_adams Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 I just switched to HC-110 for similar reasons. Long life, easy batch mix upetc... I got the little 4oz brown glass storage bottles from B&H and it's super easy to pour out an ounce or half ounce etc as I need it. So far I am getting really favorable and consistent results using both dil B and H. While I don't have it completely dialed in yet, I think I am getting images I like better than the D-76 I used for a number of years prior. I agitate the same for most runs. I use Paterson tanks for roll and dip and dunk 4x5. Five inversions after pour in. For normal, five inversions every minute after for Dil B (dip and dunk five times). If attempting N-1 in dil H I do same five intitially and then two slow inversions every minute. This I may change. And I haven't tried highly dilute yet. It is an active developer, even at dil H. But H is nice for longer times offereing more control. I have had good results with development times as short as 3-1/2 minutes ! Aside from my own exposure errors, I seem to be getting really nice shadow details and textures in higlight which were blocking up oftenin D-76, esspecially with the film that most surprised me when I swithced. Besides more traditional emulssions like HP-5 and TRX 320, I was trying to figure out Acros. When I switched I noticed an improvement in the highlights. I haven't tried FP4 yet, but having a few rolls of Fuji Neopan SS I took it on a recent road trip. Shot at 64 and figuring my own times for it and being a forgiving film, everything looks really good with a variety of lighting conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fernando_garcia4 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Hi. Adams: Do you try HP5+ rated at 160 in dil.H? I don't find times for this combination. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big toys are better Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Massive has a Dilution H for HP-5 at 3200 using semi-stand development (agitation only every 5-10 minutes). Since H is fairly dilute (1:63), bromide drag, streaking and mottling will not be a major issue if you vigorously agitate for the first minute but then increased periods between those agitations-- the "semi-stand" method that I generally use (there are also higher dilutions to be found at websites listed below which will further enhance these effects). The higher dilutions will provide some accutance enhancement plus reduce overall contrast, and the semi-stand agitation will increase this effect, but if you are looking for finer, smoother grain and less effect on contrast (keeping in mind that HC-110 does not tend to produce a classic "S" curve in the tones of the developed negatives), then lower dilutions plus more traditional methods will work better. However, see the Covington websites discussion of the "G" dilution (1:119) and semi-stand method (3 minutes between subsequent agitations) that Ansel Adams used to improve his film's shadows without blocking up the highlights, something that HC-110 ought to be very good at doing. Also try these pages for info: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html http://mkaz.com/photo/tools/developing.html http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.jhtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_king2 Posted June 16, 2008 Author Share Posted June 16, 2008 Hey guys, thanks for your input - much appreciated! Cheers, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old school Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 When using dilution H, just be careful to include enough of the developer in your dilution for the number of films you are processing. For instance a litre of developer at dilution H contains 15-16ml of the syrup. This is just enough for 2 x 36exp 35mm films or 2 x 120 films. Don't be tempted, because you have a litre of developer to try and develop 3 films in a 1 litre tank... Just thought I'd mention it as its an extra factor to take into account when working with Dilution H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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