Fed 2 N26M & ORWO pushed to 200 ASA

<p>I have never attempted any push processing before. Recently, I saw Larry Dressler experimenting with ORWO film. He posted in the B&W Forum. One of my friends, here, who borrowed my Home Brew formula also tried some and got good results. The ORWO UN54 is rated at 100 ASA by the factory.<br /><br />So I got inspired to explore some. I was under the impression that pushing was a technique in the age of slow films, resorted to by photographers who wanted to recover some from pictures taken in poor light. However, there seems to be more potential to this, now.<br /><br />Here are some samples taken around the neighborhood. I usually develop for 15 minutes at a pH value of 8.0. In this roll I raised the time to 19 minutes and the pH value to near 9.0. Perhaps, I should moderate this, as the negatives became darker and contrasty.<br /><br />My brew is home made and is not a standard one. May not be useful for comparison purposes. So, I am posting the pictures in this Forum and not in the B&W Film Developing Forum.<br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>There was a public transport strike on this day.</p><div></div>

<p>"Bundh" is from the same root as Bind in English, possibly from Indo- Persian. It became a common word in Victorian English as in "Cummer Bund" in formal dinner dress.</p><div></div>

<p>Looks more like interior space!</p><div></div>

<p>Well accompanied by breaking and robbing the cash!</p><div></div>

<p>They renew old-style buildings to suit this trade and gain higher rental.</p><div></div>

<p>Not bad for a first try at pushing. I could reduce the time of development by 10%, I think. Otherwise, the potential seems very good. One need not buy faster film for low light pictures. The same film seems to work well. I am surprised at the details picked up by this under-exposure. Thanks for viewing. I shall appreciate your critical comments/suggestions. SP.</p>

<p>While I like the "softer" look of the normal processing with your brew, this certainly gives the pictures a "harder edge" in more ways than one. Amazing how much difference the processing and exposure can make.<br>

Well done. :)</p>

<p>If "the negatives became darker and contrasty", you should do better with reduced development time. I assume that temperature is constant or within a narrow band.</p>

<p>Very punchy results, <strong>SP</strong>, and reduced development time might help, depending on the overall density of your negatives. As a practitioner who tends to over-expose and under-develop, I lay no claim to expertise in this area!</p>

<p>I like the punchier look. The pictures seem sharper.</p>

 

<p>If anything,it gives you a reference point. The pictures are good and edgy. Nice for an experiment. Now you know that you're in the ball park. I kind of lucked out one time. I did a social function for a friend of mine. Two rolls were shot on 120 film with my TLR, and the other film was shot on an FT2. It was in a basement so flashes were used. I took some test shots with some tissue paper wrapped around the flashes. They came out ok. Then, the day of the event, I tried a little more tissue to soften it up a bit more, but I forgot to compensate. The 35mm roll came back badly underexposed. I called up the shop that had the 120 films and told them to push the film when they processed it. Thankfully, they saved my bacon. That was Silvano's on Weston Road, but sadly, they're now out of business. They were always good for me. I have an improved flash rig now and with my digicam, I can use test shots to set up the flashes right away.</p>