Exposure vs Shutter Speed

Discussion in 'Beginner Questions' started by miss.annette_leigh_haynes, Jan 13, 2018.

  1. Please read your manual. When you mount a lens with CPU like the one you have on the D70 you have to set the aperture at f/22 and lock it there. You will then set the aperture using the sub command dial (the front control wheel just under the shutter release button). You will see the aperture that you set displayed in the viewfinder and the LCD panel on top.
  2. As BeBu said(and as I mentioned a couple of times previously, CPU lenses MUST be set to the smallest aperture. You can use the lock or not, but leave it there.

    On higher end cameras you can use the ring if you want, but this does NOT work on the D70. As said, in A or M mode use the front dial to set the aperture and read it off the top LCD.
  3. Rodeo_Joe:
    I used Marco Bellows for over 10 years on my 35mm SLR and never knew they had a, Genuine Nikon bellows have a revolving mount.
    That issue is resolved now they fit Ok thanks
  4. "..what good are F-Stops if I can only use f/22 use any other f-Stop, FEE appears and shutter is locked."

    Yes, that's normal. The lens aperture is adjusted from the camera body. The aperture ring on the lens must be set to its minimum aperture to allow this. Otherwise, as you've seen, you get an 'FEE' error message. The FEE message is replaced with the selected aperture number when the lens is set to minimum aperture.

    All this is explained in the manual. You just have to get used to controlling everything from the camera body without touching the lens aperture ring. There should be a lock 'switch' on the lens to prevent accidentally moving the aperture ring.
  5. Ben H.
    Sorry to be such a pain I did not know that I was unable to get the F Stop I wanted in Auto setting but in Manual I can and AF works good.
    I been looking in Menu and find no place to disable TTL Metering. Flash will not work in Manual mode using TTL metering.
    And thanks to all for you help.
  6. Ben H:

    Here are two quick pictures I took on a cloudy day. 35-80mm f/4.5 CPU Lens at 80mm f/16 1/125 sec. Secong Mankion 80-200 f/4.5 Manual Lens

    200mm f/16 1/125 Sec

    I see my problem was a shutter speed Issue had to adjust my Gossen Pro Light Metter for this Camera now every picture comes out good

    Over Exposed need to hold Lens open longer.

    Guess over the years I forgot what I once learned. Question why will a Vivitar 2X-3 Teleconverter not lock in place on a Nikon D70 and a Vivitar 3X will lock in place? DSC_0074.JPG DSC_0075.JPG
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018
  7. Don't go F16 on digital, I think F11 is max you can go, because diffraction will reduce sharpness. Go higher shatter speed instead, 1/250 and up on sunny day.
  8. "I been looking in Menu and find no place to disable TTL Metering. Flash will not work in Manual mode using TTL metering."

    - Custom ('Pencil' icon) menu item 19 allows you to adjust the flash mode.
  9. There's no hard and fast rule, and a D70 is low enough resolution that you're PROBABLY splitting hairs.

    I'm not afraid to go to f/32 on my D800 if I need it for DOF. I can certainly see the loss in sharpness, but the net gain is worth it if it makes the picture work.
  10. You can often compensate for diffraction with digital sharpening - it's easier to deal with than insufficient depth of field, since that is dependent on depth (which isn't recorded in the photo, obviously). However, sharpening operations do increase noise, so I'd still prefer to avoid it where possible. The D70 has much larger pixels than more modern, higher-resolution cameras, which makes diffraction less relevant, but to counter that the pixel accuracy is a bit lower as well.

    Remember you'll get an extra stop or so of depth of field from a D70 compared with a 135 film camera with the same field of view and f-stop because of equivalence due to the sensor size. A D70's f/16 is a film body's f/22(ish).

    The main reason I try to avoid small apertures is that it shows up any dust on the sensor, which is annoying. Unlike film, dust sticks to a digital sensor between frames, so hiding it with a larger aperture can be useful.
    SSepan likes this.
  11. Miss Annette, I once owned a Vivitar 283. Due to the uncertainty of the voltage, I gave the 283 away when I bought my Nikon D80. I then bought two used Nikon SB24 Speedlights. Now my four primary Nikon Speedlights are the Nikon SB80DX, Introduced in 2002. I continue to use the SB80DX with my full-frame Nikon camera.

    The SB80DX has a built-in slave unit, which functions perfectly if the distance from another flash is not too great. The SB80DX also has secondary built-in defusing and flash-bounce features, and a model-specific diffuser dome is also available. With re-chargeable batteries, the Speedlights have always performed perfectly. It is very important to have the Speedlight user manual with you to learn and remember the settings. I also use radio triggers to fire the Speedlights, often adding umbrellas or soft boxes.
  12. The SB-80DX has one drawback when used off-camera and in Auto-aperture mode; it's only possible to change the ISO speed immediately after the speedlight is switched on. It shares this silly restriction with the SB-28 and anything more recent.

    Since the SB-24 and earlier speedlights have no pull-out diffuser or catchlight card, to my mind that makes the SB-25 and SB-26 the 'sweet spot' of pre i-TTL Nikon flashes. There's no menu mining required to get to any function, and the user interface is straightforward enough that you don't need to refer to the manual all the time.

    Flash power of the SB-25 and 26 is equal to any of Nikon's subsequent top line speedlights.
  13. rodeo_joe, Thanks for joining this conversation, as your comments bring more flash considerations for anyone following this thread. At the time that I chose the SB-80dx it made sense, and still does for photographing interiors.

    I shoot from a tripod, typically setting my camera at its base iso, and the speedlights as low as 1/8 power. I also use a Paul C. Buff White Lightning as a key light when needed.

    As you know, controlling window light is often more about subtracting and diffusing light. Soon I would like to consider adding remote control electronics to the lighting mix.
  14. Yeah, not sure why Nikon made the 'select' button practically useless from the SB-28 onwards.

    I can see they were trying to make on-camera flash more fully automated, but removing manually selectable features for off-camera use was just stupid and annoying.

    Ah well, I suppose there are enough used speedlights out there that everyone can take their pick of the features and modes they find most useful.
  15. Used D200 prices should be low enough now, and that allows metering with AI lenses.

    Otherwise, a D700 for $600 is also a good deal, and will allow M or A mode with AI lenses.

    This will allow the OP to mostly work the way she is used to, with Nikon film SLRs.
  16. If those lines on your photos are on every photo, you have something on your sensor. You have to be careful with digital camera. Dirty sensors were a big problem until they came with covers when the lens was removed.
    If you are using a Vivitar 283 flash, depending on the age (they were made for many years) the flash voltage could fry the flash electronics. The voltage of the flash from positive (center contact) to negative (side contact) was sometimes 300V. Those flashes were made for some 20+ years. Nikon says the contacts are good for 250v. There is a device that fits between the flash and camera that drops the contact voltage to some tiny voltage. But that makes the distance from the top of the flash to the adapter longer. That could make any strain at the attachment points very high and break something if you hit the flash sideways.
  17. Mike. This thread was started 9 months ago. I don't think reviving and adding to it now is going to help the OP.

    From the user profile:
    'miss.annette_leigh_haynes was last seen: Jan 29, 2018'
  18. I have a lens that is either 28mm or 35mm, but nothing in between.

    I think that means it isn't zoom, but still has two focal lengths.

    N/AI mount.
  19. What!?

    This is just getting weird now.

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