Bronica SQ-A - Sticky Shutter?

<p>Yet again, my SQ-A gave me trouble today. Every time I take the thing out for the day it comes up with another fault.</p>

<p>This time it worked perfectly for an hour or so and then when I went to press the shutter there was a faint click instead of the usual SQ-A explosion. A quick thump with the palm of my hand would help it to complete the usual shutter firing process.</p>

<p>I have a feeling it may be something to do with the 80mm I was using. I changed lenses to the 150mm and it was working fine again. It was also very cold today (around zero degrees celsius) and I'm wondering if the cold had somehow stiffened up the lubricant on the 80mm after a while. The other thing I noticed was that it was impossible to remove the 80mm lens until I physically persuaded the camera to complete the shutter firing cycle.</p>

<p>I also know it was not the battery at fault. Any ideas? I'm just about ready for ditching this contraption because I think it is jinxed.</p>

 

<p>The 80mm lens needs a CLA on its shutter. The lubricant or whats left of it hardened up in the cold climate. The body may need to be serviced also to prevent future failures.<br>

The lens of this type SLR cannot be removed when in mid operation, they must be in the cocked or uncocked state depending on camera and lens.</p>

 

<p>Thanks Charles, I feared as much. I'll get my screwdrivers out (again).</p>

<p>I doubt it needs a CLA on the actual shutter.<br>

The problem is usually thickened grease in the mechanism in the lens which transfers the cocking and release motion from the body. The pins should be very easy to move in the "release" direction. They will take some effort when cocking the lens if you try it off the camera, but they should take very little effort to release. The body does not generate a lot of release force, so if there is much extra resistance, the body can't overcome it.<br>

Jiggling the lens on its mount, that is, turning it clockwise and counterclockwise as if unmounting or mounting it, will usually be enough to get it to release. If you take the back off the lens you can see the places on the mechanism that need to have the lube replaced, without having to get deep into the lens.</p>

<p>Thanks Jeff, I actually tried fiddling with that mechanism last night and, compared to my 50mm and 150mm, the pins on my 80mm didn't really feel any different. I took the back off the lens and those pins were really loose and free moving. When you mentioned the "release" direction of the pins, which way is that? Anti-clockwise when looking at the rear of the lens?</p>

<p>Just had another play this morning. I think the "release" direction of the pins must be clockwise. When comparing all 3 lenses, my mint condition 150mm is the smoothest followed by my rough 50mm. The pins on the 80mm are the worst. Hopefully this is the problem and hopefully I can fix it myself.</p>

<p>To determine the "cock" and "release" directions, look at the levers in the body with the lens off, while winding and releasing the body.<br>

If it's just the lube, it will be very easy. Thoroughly remove the lube with lighter fluid and a piece of lintless cloth or small brush, being careful to not let any escape into the lens. Work the mechanism and it will free up. After it's clean, a few dabs of light grease, and you're done.</p>

<p>Doh! I didn't think of that! Silly me. Thank you Jeff, I shall try that. I was out with the camera again today in freezing conditions and it was working fine with the 50mm and 150mm. I didn't even risk using the 80mm.</p>

<p>Hi Jeff,</p>

<p>I'm struggling trying to get access to the affected area of the lens. Can you remember which parts of the lens you had to remove? I've removed the black backplate, the silver bayonet, the black plastic knurled ring with the SEIKO logo and the rear lens element so far but I still cannot get to the parts that need lubed. Any ideas?</p>

<p>"I<em>'ve removed the black backplate, the silver bayonet, the black plastic knurled ring with the SEIKO logo and the rear lens element so far but I still cannot get to the parts that need lubed. Any ideas</em>?"</p>

<p>Send it to Koh's.</p>

<p>With the backplate removed, you should be able to get to the parts of the mechanism that transfer cocking and release motion. It's been a long time now, but I'm sure I did not remove the rear element. I'm going to have to think about it a bit to remember what I did.<br /> <br />On the inside of the backplate is the part with the pins that are moved by the camera body. That should be moving freely.<br /> On the other side of that part, opposite the pins, are long arms that project into the lens body, transferring rotary motion. Those arms mate up with a cam plate, which is under a cover. The cover has slots along its edge to allow the arms to engage the cam plate. I have not had to remove that cover. With the rear element off you might be able to remove it easily if needed.<br /> There are openings in that cover that let you see rollers that are moved by the cam plate as it turns. That is the spot that gives the most trouble, in my experience.<br /> At the rollers rotary motion is converted to linear motion, with a relatively high local pressure being applied to the rollers. One roller moves the shutter; the other moves the diaphragm. By moving the cam plate through its full motion, you can get to the old lube on its edge and remove it. Use a fine brush to carefully apply lighter fluid to the rollers so it can get inside them, and wick the resultant gunk up using a second fine brush or small lint free cloth. When regreasing, don't overdo it. Push grease onto the rollers so that it gets to the inside, then remove any excess. Apply a light layer to the outside of the rollers and to the edge of the cam plate where they roll on it.<br /> I have never had to remove the cover over the cam plate to fix the problem. The rollers are on a pivot and it should move freely, (accounting for spring tension). The cam plate should move freely, too. If either pose a problem, removing the cover will allow access.</p>

<p>Koh's is always an option. As I recall, their CLA charge for most lenses is around $80, but don't hold me to that. That of course covers cleaning and relubing everything that requires it.</p>

<p>Thanks so much for that Jeff. You described it perfectly. The black cover above the cam plate is the one I was struggling to remove. There is no obvious way inside and I'm at the point where I would feel uncomfortable going any further. I will try as you suggest and lube up the points I can see through the cover. I just need to find some suitably light grease now.</p>

<p>I'm from the UK so Koh's is not a viable option. I'm sure the repair bill over here would cost double that so I will continue the DIY approach. :-)</p>

<p>White lithium grease works fine in cameras. It is usually available in hardware stores, tool supply stores that sell table saws and the like, or a light weight bicycle grease will work. Graphited or teflon based grease should work well also.</p>

<p>Just make sure the grease you use is not too "tacky". Some greases are made to be tacky or sticky to stay in place better, which sounds good, but that creates resistance to motion. I prefer a graphited or teflon grease, but it's not essential.</p>

<p>Thanks guys, I have a cart load of lithium grease but wasn't sure if it would be suitable. If it seizes up again in the future at least I will know the solution.</p>

<p>A dab no larger than the average straight pin head is all that is needed, more acts like glue.</p>

<p>Thanks Charles, I'll remember that.</p>

<p>I repaired the lens this afternoon. Now it's working like new again. Easy when you know how ;-)</p>

<p>Thanks all, particularly Jeff.</p>

<p>I'm glad we could help.</p>

<p>Just a update to my post here: Koh's no longer does repairs.<br /> They recommend Frank Marshman:</p>

<p><br /> Mr. Frank Marshman<br /> 1495 Needmore Lane<br /> Harrisonburg, VA 22802<br /> 540-867-9671<br /> camerawiz@msn.com</p>