Best flash for Canon AE-1 program and Nikon D3200

Hi, the new guy again

I am interested in investing in a flash, but want to know if I can get one that will work on both of my cameras: a Nikon D3200 and and old

Canon AE-1 Program. What are the recommendations.

<p>Older flash units are cheap enough that you should just get a contemporary flash unit (e.g., one of the early Canon Speedlites made for the camera when it was new, such as the Speedlite 199A - sold recently on eBay for from $3 to 25) for the AE-1P, and get a new, modern Nikon flash for the D3200 that will work with all the features on the Nikon that you paid big bucks to get.</p>

<p>Here is the estimable MIR site on the AE-1P <br /> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/ae1pgrm/<br /> <br /> and specifics on what Canon Speedlites do what with the AE-1P<br /> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/a1/html/index6.htm <br /> (scroll down for the column in a table for the AE-1P specifically, but the whole "A" family have considerable similarity)</p>

<p>Look to the Nikon pages at their support site for what works with the D3200.</p>

<p>Nikon SB-800, if you can find a good used one for a reasonable price. It'll give you full TTL advantages with the D3200. And the SB-800 has outstanding non-TTL auto flash for use with any camera, as well as full manual control. I've probably used my SB-800 almost as often on my non-Nikon cameras as on my Nikon: Fuji mirrorless; Ricoh P&S digicam; Olympus film cameras; even my old medium format Agfa Isolette and Yashica TLR, which have cold shoes - I use a sync cord with those.</p>

<p>The SB-800 also has an optical trigger for use as a remote flash. In manual mode from 1/2 to 1/128 output, it can recycle quickly enough to use as a supplemental flash even when triggered by P&S cameras with auto-only flash. The SB-800 will pop from the other camera's preflash, but recycle quickly enough to fire again a split-second later to supplement the main flash.</p>

<p>Yeah, it's expensive, even used. But it's very versatile and very reliable. The SB-600 was notorious for glitches, but I've read very few complaints about the SB-800 (other than the somewhat fussy command dial, which requires a lot of finger pressure to operate). Mine is 9 years old, gets a lot of use and still works great. So do most flash units, for that matter, including my 20-30 year old Nikon and Canon auto flashes. So it's worth spending the money for a good one that works with almost any camera, because you'll probably get many years of good service.</p>

<p>Otherwise, check out the Yongnuo flashes for one that offers TTL compatibility with the Nikon and non-TTL auto flash and manual output for other cameras.</p>

<p>Answering the question's headline: There might be a modern Metz SCA flash working on both with different adapters. Among the best made for the AE1 is surely the Metz 60 CT-4. It offers manual output control in 1/3 f-stops goes down to 1/256 of full power has the full row of auto apertures - f22 to f2 offers power: metric GN 60 at 35mm FOV, has tilt & swivel head + secondary reflector (best used with the tiny ND filter in front of it). Known flaws: you can switch it on by accident - the huge & smooth working power switch would benefit from a safety lock. - Deep discharges kill the Pb batteries the alternative NiCds have less capacity - enough for an amateur? But replacement sub C cells are rather inexpensive. - The whole thing is bulky though, with its separate generator unit. - On a modern DSLR the Metz won't support TTL metering - it does on film bodies. The SCA adapter with AF assistance beam takes 4 AAA cells.<br>

Main advantage of a dedicated flash on a Canon: you can set your lens to auto and force the camera to set aperture via the flash controls, -IMHO quite handy - I never had such a camera but it sucks to adjust the same thing on 2 different levers.<br>

The top of the line contemporary Metz should give similar output at the long end of its zoom reflector. Which is maybe half the 60 CT 4's power, but probably frequently enough when you are flashing directly at low ISO. AFAIK it supports digital cameras since its sold rebadged as Leica's best.<br>

On a budget: I'd grab any dedicated Canon flash with a hint of output - mGN 28 2 auto apertures and a tilt and swivel head (preferably with an auxillary reflector). After licking blood on http://strobist.blogspot.de/ I'd collect maybe 3 more similar vintage units and a few slave sensors makeshift light stands and 3 white umbrellas with company logos silkscreened on them from a flea market to rig up my personal guerilla studio.<br>

I'd also get one of the Nikon (DSLR) dedicated units the other guys mentioned. - AFAIK you can't trigger old slave flashes with modern main flashes so something really small would be needed on the Nikon. - I tried using a Gossen flash meter, but believe that trial and error gets me further with a digital camera.</p>

<p>Id go with two separate units, one old used and inexpensive for the Canon and a newer one dedicated for the Nikon.<br>

Any other extra you buy to use a dedicated unit onto an older camera that uses a different system will cost the same or more than the used unit that can be had for a few $.<br>

You will also find that 2 units are handy to have sometimes using one as slave.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>you can't trigger old slave flashes with modern main flashes</p>

</blockquote>

<p>what you mean? As manual unit you can trigger whichever slave with anything really, theres only the limit of being willing to tinker a bit </p>

<p>The easiest solution is a non-dedicated flash, but you'll need to:</p>

<ol>

<li>set the camera to the proper flash sync shutter speed</li>

<li>set the camera and flash ISO to match</li>

<li>set the proper aperture on the camera (using the number the flash recommends)</li>

</ol>

<p>The best non-dedicated flash in the world is the discontinued Sunpak Auto 383 Super. The flash bounces, swivels, has decent power, and can adjust output manually down to 1/16th power IIRC. It has a low trigger voltage so it's safe to use on digital cameras, even the finicky Olympus OM-D model. </p>