Airshow photography tips

<p>Hi,<br /><br /><br>

This weekend, I will be going to Duxford Air Show to take some photos. However I never photographed planes so please tell me some tips :)<br>

I would like propeller blur, so what shutter speed should I use?<br /><br /><br>

Should I use my camera in Tv?<br>

Also, metering? Any tips? Which metering mode should I use in different situations?<br /><br /><br>

Should I use a monopod? Or should I just hand hold? I think a monopod might be helpful since I will use a quite slow shutter speed hand holding?<br>

Any tips would be welcome :)<br /><br />Thanks<br>

P.S. I think where I stand will have an influence on my images, I will be there as early as I can, again, any tips? The area the airshow will take place in is a very long runway. Should I stand looking at the middle of the runway or should I try to stand at the edge of the runway??<br>

Thanks again</p>

<p>For more answers I'd suggest looking at: <a href="http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php">http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php</a><br /> For specifics on Duxford, check out the show thread: <a href="http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,21693.0.html">http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,21693.0.html</a></p>

<p>Some Brief Suggestions:</p>

<ul>

<li><strong>Shutter speed:</strong> 1/250 is good for most prop. planes. <br />High-performance aerobatic planes have higher RPM and you can get good results at 1/320 to even 1/500.<br />If you want a "full disk" you need to shoot at lower speeds - I usually take a test-shot and check it on the LCD to see if the prop looks OK.<br />Idling planes have much lower RPM - test and chimp.<br />Planes will throttle up for an engine check and when then start taxing from a stop - that's a good time to snap a shot.</li>

<li>I'm not sure how far the crowd is from the planes at Duxford (again, the FC thread above should be able to answer).<br />For single small-plane acts, 400mm on crop-sensor camer is about the minimum (some people get good results with 300mm). 500mm is better.</li>

<li><strong>Image-stabilization helps</strong>.</li>

<li>Personally I always hand-hold, but some folks have luck with monopods or gimbal-head tripods. YMMV.</li>

<li><strong>Location: Closer is better</strong></li>

<li><strong>Location: Ends vs. Center</strong> - Varies. Both can be good. <br />Some acts have crossing maneuvers that occur at show-center. <br />The ends are good for more head-on angles and getting shots as planes turn-around.<br />I generally look at show-center and toward the end that is "up light" (i.e. more with the sun to your back). <br />If you can go to the show more than one day, you can use what you learn about the sun position and the interesting maneuvers from the first day to adjust your location on subsequent days.</li>

<li><strong>Metering</strong>: I almost always use matrix and adjust the exposure compensation. I know many people (with steadier hands) who use spot metering to good effect, esp. in back-lit situations.</li>

<li><strong>Focusing</strong>: continuous focusing is the only way I've found to shoot moving subjects. On Canon's you can set one of the buttons on the back of the camera (under your thumb when shooting) to start the AF system. Look up "back button focus" for details. I think it is the only way to go; other people like the half-press shutter method.<br />For most planes, I'll use the "all points" AF setting. There usually isn't much to confuse the AF system.<br />Some other people I know like "center point". Sometimes with formation acts some more control of the focus point can be helpful. Personally I just "keep it simple" with all-points, all the time.</li>

<li><strong>Mode:</strong> for prop. planes shutter-priority is the only way to go. Usually at the lowest ISO you can set to keep the lens from stopping down too much an causing diffraction-softening.</li>

</ul>

<p>Harry, search 'Gallery'> 'search by photo tags'> air show or airshow to see samples that others have taken. Should be lots of valuable clues there. Don't forget to post some of your results. Best, LM.</p>

<p>Just to show you what you can get away with, here's a shot of Skip Stewart's modified Pitts taken at 1/800 sec (I accidentally bumped the dial on my 7D):<br>

<a href="http://moving-target-photos.com/2011Kirksville/slides/IMG_1528_screen.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://moving-target-photos.com/2011Kirksville/IMG_1528_screen.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="533" /></a></p>

<p>On the other end of the prop-RPM spectrum, here's about as fast a shutter-speed as I would want to try on a warbird with a geared-down propeller.<br>

This P-51 is running nearly flat-out in this high-speed pass, and 1/320 sec. gives OK blur, but nothing spectacular:<br>

<a href="http://moving-target-photos.com/2011Kirksville/slides/IMG_1745_screen.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://moving-target-photos.com/2011Kirksville/IMG_1745_screen.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="533" /></a></p>

<p>I might be the only one but I find matrix metering too easily fooled by the bright sky, so I use manual mode and set my exposure by pointing at planes on the ground, setting my desired shutter speed and centering the dot on the meter. Then leave it alone until the light changes, that way even if the sky is horribly blown out the planes will be well exposed, which is what we want.</p>

<p>Wow. You guys are great. This is the exact same question I was about to post. Great advice. Love the photos. Plane to attend the Alliance Air Show in Ft. Worth, TX next weekend.</p>