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6X9 View Camera For Landscapes


robert_j._fox

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I've been using a Fuji GSW690III during the past 18 months for landscapes. Overall I have been very pleased, but there have been times where the flexibility of a view camera would have given me the results I cannot achieve with my Fuji. Guess I'm becoming a more serious landscape photographer .....

 

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With that being said, I would like to stick with roll-film using the 6X9 (or 2X3 in LF terms) format, and decided I want to purchase a view camera. I really like the non-folding Ebony cameras, and at this point am giving serious consideration to either the SW45 or the RSW45.

 

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Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments,

 

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Bob

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For my landscape photography, I prefer to travel as light and compact

as possible. As such, I've used a Galvin 2x3 with great success. It

isn't the perfect design but mine weighs under 3lbs and folds up very

compactly for transport. I also have a Toyo 23G, which is the scaled

down 2x3 version of the 45G, and while I enjoy using this camera, its

added weight and bulk (as compared to the Galvin) do make carrying it

over hill-and-dale a somewhat less pleasant experience.

 

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I have no experience with the Ebony cameras but they do make some 2x3

versions and if you're serious about shooting rollfilm, perhaps you'd

do well to consider one of these instead of the 4x5 version? They'll

be a little smaller and lighter than the 4x5 version but you won't be

able to change formats later without replacing the camera. If I were

you, I'd make sure whichever camera you choose can accept a monocular

viewer as using a loupe on a 2x3 ground-glass is frustrating for many

people.

 

One other point to consider is the film backs you use. Film flatness

can be a problem with some backs (i.e., tired Graflex) and I've found

the Toyo backs, while bulky and more costly than most others, are the

best of those I've tried to date.

 

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Good luck with whichever camera you choose and if you're set on using

rollfilm, don't let yourself be talked into buying a 4x5 since you'll

end up carrying around more camera than you'll need. (Mind you, it's

probably easier to sell a 4x5 than a 2x3 should you later change your

mind about using a view camera. I thought I could never live without

movements but after shooting almost exclusively with a TLR during the

past year, now I'm not so sure...)

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arca swiss F line Metric 6x9 is the more versatile 6x9 camera, (only on a tripod), very good for architecture as well.

if you want to stick with 6x9, i believe this is the best tool !

but if you want to shoot 6x12, then you need a 4x5 with a sinar zoom back....

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There are VERY few LF lenses that can duplicate the resolution and

contrast you're enjoying with your little FUJI. When I'm slugging it

out at 10,500 feet in the brislecones with my big LF outfit, I find

myself wishing for a little GSW 690 III on a shoulder strap. BTW when

you bought that for +/- $1000 bucks, you were buying the lens. They

threw the plastic box that holds the film in for free. Figure about

the same $ for each lens you buy for LF that will come anywhere close

to duplicating your fuji. Just playing devil's advocate here because

as a person that's gone way over the cliff in the opposite direction

I've often thought about how much I could accomplish with a little

Fuji around my neck. Especially in the color world.

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The Horseman VH or VHR would be your lightest choice, with

some minor limitaions. For wide angle work it can use a

Horseman (or any brand) 65mm with minor movements, or a 45

or 47mm if you can find a third party recessed lens board

(contact Bob Eskridge, if you can find him on this or other

forums.) It can focus a 300mm tele design (with an extended

board, Midwest Photo has these) at infinitiy. It is well made and

versatile.

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The Horseman VH is a great choice, except for the wide angle

limitation noted above. I'ved used a Horseman VH with a 58 mm

on a Bob Eskridge recessed board, and it works great. One

could also use a 55 mm Rodenstock on this board, with, in my

view sufficient movements. However, I don't think you could use

a 45 mm or 47 mm with this board. In any event, last I'd heard,

Bob didn't have any more recessed boards left. So either (a)

you're limited to a 65 mm (still sufficiently wide for most

purposes, in my view), or (b) if you're very adventurous, you can

start hacking at the box, as a few have done, which might, with

some effort allow you to use a 45 mm or 47 mm.

 

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Not to dissuade you from a Horseman VH -- I love mine. The

suggestion about a monocular viewer is also a great one. I have

three different fresnel viewing screens -- each made by Bob

Maxwell. They're sharp, contrasty, bright and very easy to use for

focusing. The standard screen is in the normal viewing back

and can be used effectively for all lenses from about 75 mm -

300 mm, but really shines in the 100mm + range. I have a wide

angle screen which I use either alone with a loupe or in the

monocular viewer and is fantastic for the 75 mm and 58 mm

lenses. It's like using an SLR/Hasselblad, but with movements.

Also works great with a 6x loupe (Schneider). A lot of people

complain about ground glass on a 6cm x 9cm as being too

small -- I don't know why. I've had know problems -- as soon as I

started using Bob Maxwell's fresnels.

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Bob -

 

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I own a Horseman VH and a VH-R as well as a bag-bellows Gowland 2x3,

and have also shot rollfilm with my 4x5 Nagaoka.

 

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But if I were going to be doing serious 6x9 landscape work, I'd

probably get the non-folding 2x3 Ebony. For my taste it probably

offers the best balance of light weight, ease of use, precision, and

sufficient versatility for my purposes. I'd go for a 4x5 Ebony only

if I were concerned about ease of resale or wanted to have the option

of shooting 6x12 as well.

 

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As far as lenses, the old argument that view camera lenses can't

match the quality of roll-film camera lenses when shooting smaller

formats is probably no longer true now that the new "digital" series

lenses, optimized for smaller formats and wider apertures, are

available from Rodenstock and Schneider. I've shot some test frames

with the 90/5.6 Rodenstock Apo-Sironar-Digital, and it's a superb

lens.

 

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Good luck...

 

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...Oren

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Bob I own and use both the Ebony SW45 and SW23. The SW45 is probably my best "alrounder" camera. However if you just like 6x9cm then the SW23 is ideal. Its incredibly small and light and takes the very useful Horseman angled viewer. It is very easy to set up and use. Having a hinged GG back makes it ideal in adverse conditions. Just swing it out and attach the roll back, you'll appreciate this if you've ever worked in the rain.

Regards,

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Bob --

 

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I have used both the Arca Swiss 6X9 and more recently (and very

briefly) an Ebony SV23. Both are terrific, of course. They actually

weigh about the same, despite Ebony's claim that their camera

only weighs 4 lbs. (I measured them both at 4 lb 12 oz,) The

Ebony folds up into a significantly more compact shape, but for

me the biggest difference in the field is that pointed out by

Trevor, which is the Ebony hinged groundglass back. It's great

not to have to remove the whole groundglass back in order to put

the roll film holder in place, at least if you're as clumsy as I am. I

frankly can't understand why the engineers at Arca don't develop

something similar. (With the Arca, the problems for the clumsy

set are compounded by the fact that their binocular viewer

doesn't lock onto the groundglass back, so when you remove

the viewer and back and hold it by the viewer you end up with a

groundglass lying on the ground. The Ebony-modified

Horseman viewer does lock securely in place, but of course you

still have to remove it for critical focusing.) But of course there

are few things in this world as elegant and as beautifully made

as the Arca, which is why I haven't figured out yet which one to

sell.

 

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Ed Kleinbard

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Bob,

 

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Having just gone through the process of buying (and investing heavily) in a

4x5 Ebony and a range of lenses, I agree with what the above posters have

said, but I'd like to add that the Ebony 4x5 > 6x9 adapter can also be used

easily on the 4x5 version of the cameras allowing the swing-out feature for

the GG and the use of the a 6x9 roll film holder and if you want to shoot 4x5

or 6x12 in the future, . . ."Guess I'm becoming a more serious landscape

photographer ....." and it's likely you will, I'd suggest you get the 4x5

version.

 

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The difference in weight between the 6x9 & 4x5 versions is negligible but you

can grow with the 4x5.

 

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There are some excellent reviews of the various 6x9 and 4x5 cameras

available, on Tuan's LF web site, if you haven't already looked there.

 

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http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/photography/lf/listcameras.html

 

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Good luck with your choice.

 

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Kind regards

 

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Peter Brown

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Thank you so much for your replies - All of you are helping me

tremendously with my decision. I think I know what I want but still

have a few questions.(I have'nt gotten my Stroeble book yet!).....

 

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My primary use for this camera is landscape, with some architectural

thrown in. (I am an advid Civil War Battlefield visitor, and 90% of

my photography are battlefields and related historical buildings)As I

have no plans to shoot sheet film, I've decided on either an Ebony

23S, or an SW23 (Do I really need the additional back movements that

the 23S has over the SW23?)I really like the aspect ratio of 6X9, so

I plan on sticking with this format. Here are my questions:

 

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1) I know I need "Linhof-Type" lensboards. Any brands / types

better than the others, or all they all the same? Would the typical

layman such as myself have any technical problems mounting the lens

on the board?

 

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2) The myriad of LF lenses boggle my mind! I want to start with a

lens that will give me the same "view" as the 65mm Fujinon in my

GSW690III. Which one should I get? Do the Fujinon LF lenses have

the same EBC as their MF counterparts? Should I go with a Schneider,

Rodenstock, Nikon, or Fujinon? I'm REALLY confused .....

 

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3) What 6X9 rollfilm back should I get? Seems Horseman is the one

most recommended. Are there any significant differences between the

various makes and models?

 

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4) And finally, what else will I REALLY need? I know I need a

focusing hood and loupe. What else?

 

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Thanks again in advance for all your help.

 

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Regards - Bob

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Have you thought about Linhof? Then you could use the rangefinder

also when needed. Make sure the camera you choose takes the range of

lenses you will need ....does it have sufficent bellows extention to

accomplish this...or extention rails/lensboards.Also remember that

roll backs are a real pain to use....because of extra weight...and so

many things to do in succession...1-focus/compose image,2-remove gg

back,3-attach roll back,4-wind frame/film,5-cock shutter,6-stop

down,7-remove darkslide,8-take pic,9-put darkslide back,10-remove

film back,11-put gg back on again! It will become automatic after

awhile but messing up is a ever present reality with rollbacks and

view cameras.

Having said that the Ebony 2x3 sounds cool....I love my Linhof 2x3

though...very smooth and quality build for a lifetime of use.

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1) I know I need "Linhof-Type" lensboards. Any brands / types

better than the others, or all they all the same? Would the typical

layman such as myself have any technical problems mounting

the lens on the board? <P> <B>If you have enough money to buy

an Ebony go ahead and buy the Ebony or Linhof boards.</B><P>

 

2) The myriad of LF lenses boggle my mind! I want to start with a

lens that will give me the same "view" as the 65mm Fujinon in

my GSW690III. Which one should I get? <P><B> get a 65mm,

same format, same view. I like Rodenstock and NikkorSW over

Schneider. can't speak to the Fujinon wide angle

lenses.</B><P>Do the Fujinon LF lenses have the same EBC

as their MF counterparts? <P><B>IF they are current, yes. Talk to

the nice people at Badger graphics about Fuji LF

lenses.</B><P>

 

3) What 6X9 rollfilm back should I get? Seems Horseman is the

one most recommended. Are there any significant differences

between the various makes and models?<P><B>Does anyone

else curerently make 6x9 cm backs for 6x9 view

cameras?</B><P>

 

4) And finally, what else will I REALLY need? I know I need a

focusing hood and loupe. What else? <P>A polaroid back,

adecent tripod, a spot meter, decent cable releases (I use

Linhof)... get a 4x or 5x loupe for focusing more powerful loupes

will work against you., a 100mm width filter holder/ lens shade

combination .

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Robert, If you've decided on the 6x9 format then definitley go for

the Ebony SW23 (the S is more cash and you won't need the extra back

movements for what you describe). Combine this with a Horseman 6x9

back and spend the cash you've saved on the "S" on either a Schneider

or Rodenstock 65mm lens. You'll need a tripod (go for a carbon

fibre) a spotmeter (look at the Sekonic L508) a loupe (try the

silvestri tilting loupe)and a cloth.

Mounting lenses is a cinch, just make sure you get hold of a lens

wrench (either a Toyo or better still a Rodenstock). Make sure you

get a lens board that is drilled for the correct size shutter (in

this case, a Size 0 I believe).To mount it you unscrew the rear lens

elements from the shutter assembly. You then unscrew a small screw

that protrudes from the base of the shutter and throw it (the screw

not the shutter!!!).The shutter has a retaining ring that has small

notches cut into it (for the wrench). Remove the retaining ring and

place the front elements and shutter in the hole on the panel and the

retaining ring screws onto the thread of the shutter (through the

rear of the lens board). Tighten carefully with the wrench and then

carefully screw the rear lens assembly into the shutter. Sounds

complicated but its not!! Get a load of 120 film and "Bob's your

uncle!!" You've spent a small fortune but you won't invest in a

better set up. Regards Paul

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