135mm f3.5SC FD(old), bargain shop find - or idiot vs lens part 3:)

<p>Hi All,<br>

I have learned much from my first attempt at going into a lens (the 100mm f2.8), and buoyed by that success I cracked open a Vivtar 28 f2, which, unlike my 100 does stop down, just always to the same smallish aperture. That second attempt shamed me into submission, I could make neither rhyme nor reason as to what was wrong, and I re-assembled that lens back, defeat...</p>

<p>Today, (well, yesterday - haven't slept yet lol) I found a 135mm f3.5 SC at a local second hand store, resplendent with BT55 hood and a really shiny cap (ooh...shiny... where was I? oh yeah - ), and I bought it for $15... which is about what those lenses go for on eBay, etc... Still, I couldn't let it languish there.</p>

<p>When I brough it home, I realized that it was not stopping down. My experience trying to remove the UV filter suggested that this lens, although appearing mint, has suffered from long periods of sitting...doing nothing...</p>

<p>But, I am now LENS FIXING MAN!!!.... Or so I delude myself to thinking, conveniently forgetting the Vivitar EPIC fail.<br>

Still, I assumed that there would not be anything that much different inside this short tele as the last short tele I cracked open. I set out to get to the diaphragm. Here are some points of interest others may find useful which I encountered in this repair:<br>

1) And this was literally the first thing I found - the name plate surrounding the front element screws in using the same threads as the filters. It does not snap in as seen in the NewFD 100mm I had. I wish I had something non-slip that would fit in there so I could turn it. I instead had to slightly damage the ring, by driving a tiny screwdriver into the plastic and tapping it counter clockwise, once loose I used my fingers to turn it until it came out.<br>

2) The front element group is not held in place by a flimsy retaining plate, but rather by the very front part of the lens barrel (the part with the hood bayonets on the outside and filter threads on the inside).<br>

The front group is in there very, very snug - in the New FD lens I dealt with, the front element group just fell into the palm of my hand once the retaining plate was removed. This one had to be (very, very gently) pried out, and fit in with very tight tolerances. I am not sure if it makes any difference, but I scribed to align the elements in the same position in relation to lens barrel as when I pulled them out.</p>

<p>3) The old FD breech lock is actually easier to deal with (in my opinion), but one must remember to have it in the LOCKED position (the way it sits when not mounted on a camera, and does not move) before reassembling. Also, on this lens I had to use a match stick to move the aperture levers inside the lens barrel as my fingers are too damn fat and stubby:)</p>

<p>Again, I found that the Rick Oleson drawing and directions were very helpful (wish I looked before I assumed the front name plate popped out instead of screwing in... like it in fact does on this lens). <br>

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-161.html</p>

<p>Overall, I found that this lens exhibits tighter tolerances, more precision fit in its construction, and relies on finesses and fine machining far more than the New FD lens I worked on. Mind you a) this is a smaple size of..uhm... 2... and b)I don't think the "short cuts" in the New FD lens in any way affect longevitiy or precision of actual optical quality impacting part, mainly just a expense and ease of assembly.</p>

<p>I gave the lens a good cleaning and voila, its now mounted on my New F1, and ready for some test shots - I bet its a really nice lens, I just have a feeling about it... not 'cause I fixed it or nuthin'...</p>

<p>Hope someone finds this helpful, please contact me with any questions and I will try to share whatever little I know. All the best,</p>

<p>Peter</p><div></div>

<p>Great saga, <strong>Peter</strong>, you're a lion-hearted man. FD's today, Noktons tomorrow...I'm looking forward to the pics. Incidentally, regarding the removal of the nameplate/bezel, while I know there are special rubber tools designed for the task, I cut the palm from a rather garish rubber dish-washing glove, (which rather annoyed my wife), and I can usually find a plastic lid from some jar in the fridge or pantry which is a snug fit on the bezel, and I lay the rubber across the lens, exert a twisting pressure with the lid, and Bob's your uncle. Usually. It pays to wash the lid first, especially if it's off a Beluga caviar jar.</p>

<p>Anyway, just a hint, and thanks for an interesting post.</p>

<p>Rick, that's a great idea! I thought of various rubberized items but eventually frustration and handy access to pointed sharpos prevailed... I am glad I didn't have a hammer handy... I am strangely attracted to hammers as a means of solving problems...</p>

<p>Beluga caviar....hmmm :)</p>

<p>OK, I am off to a nearby phone booth to change - I fear no lens!!!! (except for the ones I fear, cause, like... I dunno how to fix em and stuff... yeah...)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Peter,<br>

Only yesterday I mounted one of my FD 135/3.5 lenses on my F1 to check it over and the diaphragm collapsed leaving a tangle of slightly bent blades. I'm going to take it to our local camera techncian but I'm not holding out much hope due to lack of spares. This is the third of my 135/3.5s to fail.</p>

<p>Well done Peter, P.S. around these parts we call a hammer a "Manchester screwdriver"</p>

<p>Chris - I am sorry to hear that, I think we sometimes expect these old beasts of ours to just always have another go in them... What has been your experience with these lenses (other than their genetic propensity for suicide)?</p>

<p>Ben - I like that:) I can certainly relate lol</p>

<blockquote>

<p>OK, I am off to a nearby phone booth to change</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Lucky. Bloomberg doesn't let us do that any more in NYC. Grumble.</p>

 

<p>Peter,<br>

I have had three 135/35s crash on me and a 100/2.8. There seems to be something in the linkages of these short teles that inclines them to wear out and crash. My standard and wide angle lenses, touch wood, are still battling on. (I hope I haven't tempted providence by saying that!)</p>

<p>Kayam - you just can't get caught;) I found that "...but I am a superhero!" usually makes things worse with the responding authorities... Beats me why... ;)</p>

<p>Chris - luckily in my case it was a simple case of oil in both cases, a function (I believe) of a cause opposite to what kills your lenses - lack of use, rather than reaching the end of their useful mechanical life expectancy. Still, the Vivitar 28mm perplexes me because of the symptoms - it stops down no matter what aperture is dialed in, always to the same smallish opening, and for the life of me I can't figure out why... So I guess with its another opposite - its the WA's in my camera bag that are pooping out on me... :)</p>

<p>I use 3/16 o-rings to remove the front covers, I have 3, 1 7/8, 2 inch, 2 1/8. They work very well. The 3/16 size gives you plenty of meat to grip. My first FD lens repair was the 50mm ƒ1.4 SSC that the aperture was not moving. Was a fairly easy fix. Currently have a 55mm ƒ1.8 Super Tak apart as well as the lens off my Vivitar 220/SL, I bought it with the lens going in to two pieces. This lens has some parts missing so I am going to have to manufacture something that will work.</p>