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1/3 stop or 1/2 stop increments ?


NimArt

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<p>Hello<br>

Can anyone kindly explains the ( 1/3 stop or 1/2 stop increments ) for me please ? , that is in the custom function of Canon 350D . I want to know what is 1/3 stop and also whats 1/2 stop increments meanings and also their differences and uses for ?<br>

All inputs are highly appreciated . Regards , Nima</p>

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<p>If you set the camera to 1/2 stop increments, it is two clicks from one stop to the next.<br>

For instance, from f/2 to f/2.8 there will be one intermediate increment at f/2.4</p>

<p>If you set the increments to 1/3 stop, it is three clicks from one stop to the next.<br>

From f/2 to f/2.8m there will be two intermediate increments at f/2.2 and at f/2.5</p>

<p>So, simply said, with the 1/2 stop increment setting, you count the fstops in "halfes", with the 1/3 stop increment setting, you count them in "thirds".</p>

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<p>Instead of incrementing/decrementing by one full stop like they did back in the days of manual cameras, now you can increment in 1/3 stop meaning one third of a full stop.<br>

Back in the days of Manual cameras if you wanted to increase your aperture or fstop there was a scale on your lens that read like this(F1.8, F2, F2.8, F4, F5.6, F8, F11, F16, F22, F32) If you wanted to increase your aperture by 1 fstop, or 2f stops, or how many f stops you wanted you would follow this scale in increments of 1 .<br>

If you were bracketing your photos then you could increment/decrement in units of 1.<br>

Camera manufacturers heard the cry of finicky photogrphers who wanted to increment/decrement in units of 1/2 or 1/3 because they thought that would give them a more accurate exposure reading.<br>

So with the advent of electronic cameras the included these increments values on the Aperture scale. However, some camera manufactures went overboard and now you cannot increment or decrement in units of 1 anymore only in 1/3 units or 1/2 in some cameras.</p>

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<p>The increment setting applies to the exposure compensation adjustment. This allows the photographer to correct the exposure meter's goal of 18% grey to what the photographer thinks the image should show.<br>

Between each stop there is a doubling of the amount of light falling on the sensor. So if you dial in +1/3 the photo, before processing, will appear slightly brighter and the dark areas will show slightly more detail. If you dial in +1/2 the effect will be very slightly more. Dialing in -ve amounts will conversley dim the image. Canon gives you the option of having an exposure compensation increment of 1/3 or 1/2 stops. Most people leave it at the default setting of 1/3 stops as this gives a little finer graduation to the exposure compensation settings. The difference between 1/3 and 1/2 a stop is very small, but noticeable, and such differences can also be more than swamped by what can be done in post processing.</p>

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<p>It also has to be said that because digital cameras have a reduced dynamic range over most negative films, having a higher resolution of exposure value is very important. With negative film, you could be two or three stops off and still be OK. The 1/2 and 1/3 resolution was unnecessary.</p>

<p>With a digital camera, the difference of 1/2 stop might be the difference between blown highlights with no shadow detail and correct highlights and shadows. Very much like slide film.</p>

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<p>maybe to give one thought on the subject, i switched to 1/2 stop increments as these increments of shutter speed are far more easily calculable mentally than third stops. when metering and checking where the value might fall, it is far easier to predict with the 1/2 stop increments than with third. that's why i switched. it's just easier to keep yourself oriented, in my opinion.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>it was the only thing I did not know about my camera</p>

</blockquote>

<p>If this is true, Nima, you are very much ahead of the rest of us ;)</p>

<p>I think I know my cameras pretty well, but I am still learning new details as I go along. Enjoy the process....</p>

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<p>Hi JDM<br /> Maybe something is misunderestood ;<br /> When I told it was the only thing I didn't know about my camera , I mean not I know everything about photography or how to shoot the best , I meant I know every options work , of my camera , and I am so new to photography and should practice and learn a lot , and I do ;-) <br /> Regards Nima</p>
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<p>If you don't understand the relationship between 'stops' in photography you need to learn. It is the basic information on exposure you need to understand so you can have control of the images you take.<br>

The best explanation I have ever found is in an old John Shaw book on Nature Photography. It shows the relationship with diagrams and photos and has a very clear explanation. The book is The Nature Photographer's Complete Guide to Professional Field Techniques. You can get it new or used. It has more good, clear and easy to understand information on photography and how cameras operate than any book you will ever buy. It is for beginners as well as advanced professionals. Shaw is an excellent teacher. Best of all the book is illustrated with top notch nature photography.<br>

Get it and spend a bit of time learning while looking at good work. You will benefit from it. There are many books out there but this is one of the finest anyone has ever done.</p>

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<p>Sometimes you don't want twice as much (or 1/2 as much) light hitting the sensor(film). Therefore 1/2 or 1/3 stops (+/-) are available to fine tune the exposure.<br>

In this case the term "stop" has a broad scope (Av, Tv, ISO). Can also be used to describe flash output. But the meaning remains the same. 1 stop is twice as much percieved light +/-</p>

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<p>I prefer the 1/3 stop. It gives me the option to fine tune exposure. 1 stop is too big of a jump and sometimes it is between a dark shadow and a nice midtone range. This is a matter of opinion as other photographers may think otherwise.<br>

Nima, Experiment with 1, 1/2 and 1/3, you'll see the difference and choose which suits your taste.</p>

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