I though I was using a stop bath. . .

I though I was using a stop bath untill two days ago I received my

copy of the Film Developing Cookbook. Very good book indeed, I never

thought that so much information about film developing could be

written. Great book!

 

Well, I have been using vinegar as a stop bath since I started

developing my B&W films, 15 years ago (I was a child). At that time,

I read in a book to disolve 25 cm3 of vinegar in 1000 cm3 of water,

to make a cheap stop bath. Certainly I did not understand anything

about photographic processing, and I developed my films like cooking

recipes. I abandoned film development until I was interested again,

one year ago, and I start reading too much about photography and Zone

System, making many carefull film tests and density graphs. I did not

pay attention to the stop bath....

Now, knowing that a stop bath must be a 2% solution of acetic acid in

water, and asuming vinegar is only about 5%, my 25cm3 of vinegar in

1000 cm3 of water results in a 0.12% ridiculous acetic acid solution!!

I have used this solution for film and paper development with good

results.

My question is:

 

Should I:

 

1- Continue using vinegar at that ridiculous dilution.

2- Mix vinager at 1+2 with water or buying a comercial stop bath.

(should my development time be lengthen?

3- Use simple water bath as the book recomends.

 

Many thanks and sorry for my bad english.

Ramiro.

A stop bath isn't really necessary. The only issue is to reduce the amount of developer enough to stop development prior to putting the material in the fix. In 35 years I've never found the need for anything except plain water for either films or prints. The caveat is that the water *must* be clean. This is more important in printing, of course, where it's easy to use the same water bath between dev and fix for so long that it becomes a second developer! If you're developing film in a tank, you'd simply pour in fresh water in any case.

 

I would say that if the vinegar route has worked for you for 15 years, stick with it.

The weak vinager may be doing a better job than you think. If you use a conventional fixer, an acidic stop bath will make it last far longer. Throwing out fixer before it's time is wasteful. I'd just mix the vinager a bit stronger, or buy some acetic acid. If you use an alkaline fixer like TF-4, then acid stop bath must *not* be used. Plain water is the answer there. Also, if you have any problem with pinholes, switch to plain water. With plain water, you should use several refills to do a good job. The bottom line is that arguments about acid fixer vs. plain water have been going on for years, and perfectly good negs are made either way.

As stated above, the need for stop isn't really necessary... some film

developers even state not using one at all. If you don't mind the smell (using

vinegar always made me hungry... a little balsamic and some oil=salads and

my desire to work in the darkroom was hampered due to this...) use the

vinegar. Several low grade acids can be used. When at the photo store, see if

they have photo grade citric acid. 1 tablespoon to 1000ml works fine also.

You could also find this at a pharmacy.

For film, there is no need to use a 2% acid dilution, especially if used as a one-shot solution. I personally use a water rinse, followed by a .5% acid solution (as a one shot solution). This lessons the sudden change from the alkalinity of the developer to the acid. As mentioned above, the main reason to use stop bath is to extend the life of the fixer.

 

For paper, a stronger acid solution is desirable to stop development quickly. In the USA, photographic stop bath is usually cheaper than distilled vinegar and is more convenient to store because it comes in a 28% concentration.

Scott, there's an easy way to curb that salad craving when you're in the darkroom, stay near the fixer for a little longer and say goodbye to vinegar nose. =)

Thank you my friends for your help. If It helps you , I am using AFGA AGEFIX, wich I supose to be an acid fixer. Perhaps the weak stop acid I use do a little work. When I use it in prints, I can feel its action with my fingers when I change from the developer to the fixer at the beginning of the developing session, but it disapears soon. Another bad habit I learn 15 years ago is to use my fixer one-shot,It is suposed to be a waste of money. I must start to reuse it.

Thank you!!

The dilution you're using sounds right for 28% not for normal vinegar. If you like the results no need to stop.