Rolleiflex 2.8F Planar with back locking pin missing

Dear All

After months of searching I have finally found a Rolleiflex offered locally which is in all round decent condition. It is not the 3.5F I was looking for but a 2.8F. However this has been a "vitrine" camera so stored and not used regularly so probably needs a full service.

The camera is in near perfect condition. The only problem is the middle locking pin of the three pins at the bottom front of the camera is missing and a slight bump on the bottom, front face as can be seen in the photo attached. The current owner claims that the camera worked and locked fine without this pin.

Is this a problem which should stop me purchasing ? Does it need to be repaired ? The seller has offered the camera for 1200 Euros.

Considering the condition what would be a fair offer ?

I've just had a look at my 3.5F. The central pin engages with a hole in the latch. Without the pin the back will still close tightly, but it's just possible that if knocked, the latch could drop down causing the back to open. On my camera the pin is retained by a small circular nut. It should be possible to fix it somehow. Perhaps a small screw could be inserted into the hole in the latch? The small dent at the base is just cosmetic but make sure that the lens board is fully parallel to the body, knocks can affect this..

I really can't comment on the price but you seem to accept that you have to spend more money on a service.

The two holes either side of the central pin are for the Rolleifix tripod adaptor or pistol grip.

I've just had a look at my 3.5F. The central pin engages with a hole in the latch. Without the pin the back will still close tightly, but it's just possible that if knocked, the latch could drop down causing the back to open. On my camera the pin is retained by a small circular nut. It should be possible to fix it somehow. Perhaps a small screw could be inserted into the hole in the latch? The small dent at the base is just cosmetic but make sure that the lens board is fully parallel to the body, knocks can affect this..

 

I really can't comment on the price but you seem to accept that you have to spend more money on a service.

 

The two holes either side of the central pin are for the Rolleifix tripod adaptor or pistol grip.

Thanks a lot for the reply John,

I went to see the camera last night and it appears to be in near perfect condition. Apart from the missing pin the only problem I found was that when turning the shutter speed dial in order to check the slower speeds it was stiff around 1/4. It could be set to the slower speeds but the transition needed more dial force. Not extreme but noticeable. Is there a reason that this might happen other than the camera needing a CLA ? I'm trying to find a reliable and recommended company for a CLA in Germany and not having much luck. I guess a CLA will cost about 200-300 Euro and pin repair 150 ?

Mine is reasonably stiff all the way around, but with no noticeable change as I turn it. My one second speed doesn't work. How often is that used?

You know, I bet all that camera needs is a film in it.

Many decades ago my then toddler daughter knocked my cased 2.8F from my hand and it tumbled onto

the pavement. When I picked it up I heard a rattling sound. Lacking courage to even open the case, I took

it to my friend who worked at Leitz at the time. The rattle was from that little pin that sheared. He called

a friend at Rollei who gave him the pin. Best of all, was his Rollei friends comment, "Manfred, there is a design

problem with that camera...every time you drop it that pin breaks". As if when dropped nothing should break on a Rollei!.

Most likely a replacement pin is available.

Many thanks for all the replies. I had a family emergency and once the dust had settled the camera had been sold. :(

However.....tonight I found out that the other buyer has not paid and I might still have a chance to purchase.

I wanted to ask about the faceplate being correctly aligned. As you can see from the photo above it looks like the camera

has taken a knock at sometime which might have sheared the pin and left that minor dent on the bottom. When I go to see

the camera what can I do to check that the faceplate is correctly aligned and flat ?

I have asked at various repair shops here in Germany and it seems that there are no original parts to replace the pin

but a replacement could be manufactured.

As regards the stiff shutter speed dial this seems to be nothing to really worry about and I guess might improve

with use or as the result of a CLA.

Is there anything else you would suggest I check before purchase ? Should I load a film and test the winding etc ?

I know that seems like a waste of a film but do you think this is necessary ?

I use a coin to check the gap between the lens board and body. Adjust focus until the coin just fits, and move it around.the gap to make sure it's the same all round.

Surely it's worth wasting a film when you are contemplating spending over 1000 euro. I've got a few scrap films for this purpose. Also check the lenses for haze, fungus, cleaning marks and balsam separation - seen as a rainbow pattern. Take off the viewing hood to check the mirror. Make sure the exposure meter is working and accurate. Make sure the aperture operates correctly. Focus on a subject at a known distance to check focus accuracy. I can't think of anything else without actually shooting a film with it.

when turning the shutter speed dial in order to check the slower speeds it was stiff around 1/4. It could be set to the slower speeds but the transition needed more dial force. Not extreme but noticeable. Is there a reason that this might happen other than the camera needing a CLA ?

Not sure about this specific Rolleiflex, but other Synchro Compur shutter dials/rings I've used do increase resistance (and make a sort of gear grinding sound) when moved into the 1/8- 1/4 range. Probably something to do with kicking into lowest gear for the slowest speeds. Some of this resistance would likely clear up with a CLA (it did on my Hasselblad 120mm S-Planar). The lowest-speed dial resistance occurred with several 'blad C lenses, various Voigtlanders, a Contaflex, and a couple Kodaks I've owned.

Thanks again for the replies. Today I rang some companies about the repair to the pin. I ended up talking to a very reputable repair service here in Germany.

I explained the two problems I had identified and they explained the pin isn't that essential as long as you are shooting from hand.

They also mentioned that there might be resistance in the 1/8- 1/4 range. They suggested running a film through the camera to

test. When I explained that I don't have the camera, can't put a roll of film through it before purchase and am thinking of buying it for 1200 Euro they strongly advised me against this.

Their justification was that I would probably need around 600 Euro for repairs (CLA).

Now I'm totally unsure what to do. On the one hand I've been looking for a 3.5F for well over a year and took the advice I have read

here to wait until a good condition camera is offered locally. This has finally happened but it is a 2.8F with these minor problems. I know for sure a price of 1200 Euro seems to be average for what these cameras are selling for on Ebay. Still 1200 is a lot for me and I can't afford a further 600 Euro for CLA. John you mentioned "You know, I bet all that camera needs is a film in it." I'd love to think so. Do you think I'm being too cautious ? Before I spend

this money should I insist in putting a roll of film through and getting it developed ? Slowly this all seems so complicated that I'm thinking of abandoning my Rolleiflex dream and sticking to my Yashica !!!

When it comes to Rolleiflex, Hasselblad, and to a lesser extent Leica: you have to be willing to chuck all rational trains of thought and embrace that "they are what they are" - i.e., beautiful little money pits. Some people luck out with "all it needs is a few rolls of film to wake it up" condition, but chances are the thing will require a CLA, and it will not be cheap.

At 1200 Euro average, plus half again for CLA, its a bitter pill to swallow. Yes, the Rolleiflex is a beautiful inspirational work of art in itself, and the lenses are unique in their way, but at some point you need to decide whether this is something you can easily afford, or something that you're talking yourself into affording. If its the former, make the leap and indulge your curiosity about Rolleiflex. If the latter, think long and hard whether you would derive that much more enjoyment from it vs your Yashica, or perhaps trading up one notch to a Minolta Autocord with its own unique glass.

Of all the Rolleis, the 2.8F model is the one that will kill you with its entry price. I'm not entirely certain of the Euro vs USD in terms of actual buying power in Germany (not simply the exchange rate), but in USA a clean 2.8F with a few repairable imperfections easily goes for at least $1200, plus half again for a soup-to-nuts CLA by a Rollei specialist. If you feel this is roughly comparable (in terms of your local economics) to the 2.8F in question, and you truly can afford it (in the sense you won't be endlessly second guessing your purchase), go for it.

As far as the seller letting you run a film thru it: that would definitely help evaluate operating condition if they allow it, but you run the risk of someone else snapping it up in the time it takes to negotiate this point and get the film developed. The 2.8F is the most insanely sought after Rolleiflex of all, so sellers don't generally feel any market pressure to offer concessions like a film test. Good luck! :)

As far as the seller letting you run a film thru it: that would definitely help evaluate operating condition if they allow it, but you run the risk of someone else snapping it up in the time it takes to negotiate this point and get the film developed. The 2.8F is the most insanely sought after Rolleiflex of all, so sellers don't generally feel any market pressure to offer concessions like a film test. Good luck! :)

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply and for your wise words. In the end I offered the seller three options

• I take the camera for 1200 and have the possibility to return it within the next week if there was something major wrong.
  
• I run a roll of film through the camera, get it developed and then purchase.
  
• I pay 1000 and take the camera as is and carry the risk.
  

Unfortunately he didn't go for any of these options which leaves me suspicious that there was something not ok with the camera.

Thanks again to everyone who replied. My search goes on and I know the info I received and the info I have recieved will still be

useful.