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D810 - inexpensive remote - wired or wireless


Sandy Vongries

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Doing something off tripod yesterday, a bit unusual for me. Rummaging through the manual and my considerable considerable collection of Nikon Accessories, discovered I have nothing that will work as a remote with the D810. Will be used rarely so inexpensive is a key feature. I have no bias toward either wired or wireless. Experience based suggestions will be much appreciated!
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+1 for Shun's suggestion of the Vello. I use the one for the D750. It works and is inexpensive.

If you are using that for the D750, it must be a different model, since the D750 doesn't have the 10-pin connection.

 

The Vello I was suggesting uses a 10-pin connector. That is good for the Sandy's D810 and other "higher-end" Nikon bodies such as the D4, D5, D6, D700, D800, D850 and D300, D500, etc.

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If you are using that for the D750, it must be a different model, since the D750 doesn't have the 10-pin connection.

 

The Vello I was suggesting uses a 10-pin connector. That is good for the Sandy's D810 and other "higher-end" Nikon bodies such as the D4, D5, D6, D700, D800, D850 and D300, D500, etc.

 

Oops! I should have written I am using the one made for the D750 - same button different connector. and model number RS-N2II

 

Vello RS-N2II Wired Remote Switch for Select Nikon DC-2 Cameras

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FWIW, if you have a good used shop around, I've picked up a handful of genuine Nikon MC-30s for a few bucks each by looking in the bottom of the misc tub.

 

Since these work with virtually all higher end AF film cameras(from roughly the N90 on) as well as higher end digitals, they are a handy multi-purpose piece. It works with anything that has the 10 pin connector. I think they get relegated to the misc. tubs because folks don't realize that one bought for an N90 or F100 is interchangeable with one you can buy today for your D850 or D6.

 

This is just a no-frills remote with a button and a lock.

 

Of course if you want intervalometers or wireless, there are a lot of good 3rd party options, as Sandy and Shun found and recommend. The 10 pin connector, AFAIK, just need to have two pins shorted to fire, so in my mind there's virtually no risk to using a 3rd party unit.

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