ian_fischer Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 I have a strip of film without a brand on it. Can you identify it? Markings are: Frame number 100 D (probably ISO)I N4527 Images attached Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wogears Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 How did you come by this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_fischer Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 How did you come by this? I have this negative from my family's collection of negatives from taking pictures on film before the digital era. It's 35mm color. It's probably newer than 1992. Other than that I don't have much other info about this particular roll of film. I googled for a few hours before posting this so this is something that maybe someone with developing experience would know. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 It might be a rebranded version of Agfa, Fuji, or Ferrania film. At one time each of these companies made some film that was packaged with different names (like store brands, for example). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Anything on the other side of the film such as a bar code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Not likely to be Ferrania. I'm pretty sure Ferrania stopped making film way back, after the brand name was bought by Scotch 3M and shelved. The firm trading as Ferrania today seems to have no connection with the original company. Konica or Polaroid might be other options. But does it really matter? Scanner/printing profiles are only approximate, and minilab processing variations could easily outweigh film type profiling. FWIW, the 100 D almost certainly signifies a 100 ISO daylight-balanced film, and the orange spots between sprocket holes might well be a better clue to its origin than anything else. Edited July 24, 2017 by rodeo_joe|1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_fischer Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Anything on the other side of the film such as a bar code? Yes there's a barcode. I'll Post pics later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_fischer Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Not likely to be Ferrania. I'm pretty sure Ferrania stopped making film way back, after the brand name was bought by Scotch 3M and shelved. The firm trading as Ferrania today seems to have no connection with the original company. Konica or Polaroid might be other options. But does it really matter? Scanner/printing profiles are only approximate, and minilab processing variations could easily outweigh film type profiling. FWIW, the 100 D almost certainly signifies a 100 ISO daylight-balanced film, and the orange spots between sprocket holes might well be a better clue to its origin than anything else. Trying to sort for scanning and don't want to constantly have to switch profiles. I'm using silver fast ai and a optiplex 8200 to scan if that matters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Visually match the unexposed - edge - mask colour and density with other films you have to scan. If there's no close match then the film profiles won't be similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_fischer Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Visually match the unexposed - edge - mask colour and density with other films you have to scan. If there's no close match then the film profiles won't be similar. Ok please explain this. I'm a newbie and have no idea what any of that means except for visually inspect. I'm comparing the film to each other to get a close match ok fine but what is edge mask color? Is that the color of the negative that is not part of the picture how to I visually inspect for density? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 The bar code decoder that was available online to determine what film is ancient history. Visually match the unexposed - edge - mask colour and density with other films you have to scan. That is the film orange mask in the blank area between frames and sprocket holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) "Is that the color of the negative that is not part of the picture" - Yes "... how to I visually inspect for density?" - I.e. not lighter or darker and the exact same colour as the edges of other (known) film that you have to scan. Use daylight to check for a good match against a sheet of white paper. The orange mask density and colour is strongly related to the specific dye types used in the negative. Different makes and types of film will show a different mask. So, match the mask and you pretty much have the same film type. Or at least close enough that the same scan profile should get you very close to a decent result. That's assuming both films have been equally and correctly processed. Not a given with some lax minilab process control protocols and use of off-brand chemicals. Edited July 25, 2017 by rodeo_joe|1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_fischer Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 It sounds like this is going to be no easy task to match up especially if this is the only roll of that type of film that I have. I'm not 100% that it is the only one but there's a good chance of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 (edited) The orange spots between sprockets may be pre-exposed mid-grey patches for reference. If so they can be used to help manually balance the colour for that particular film. Manually tweaking colour neg scans isn't too difficult, and reliance on preset profiles usually results in sub-optimal colour balance, tone curve and saturation. I'd also investigate Vuescan as an alternative to Silverfast. I'm no great fan of Silverfast, which I found inflexible and gave quite poor results. Edited July 27, 2017 by rodeo_joe|1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 I'd also investigate Vuescan as an alternative to Silverfast. I'm no great fan of Silverfast, which I found inflexible and gave quite poor results. I'm the opposite. I find the everything to all scanners Vuescan to be mediocre and Silverfast AI superior but will take Vuescan over Silverfase SE. Good scanning is an art and like good photography takes practice. Take a good negative and make an auto reference scan of 600 to 1200 dpi. Turn the auto off and adjust 1 control only 10% and make a scan, compare to the original. Change that control another 10% and repeat the scan/compare. Reset it to the starting point then repeat for the next control. Once each control has been used start with 5% changes using 2 controls the 3 controls. This may take 12 to 18 hours to complete but when finished it will take very little time to adjust for a unknown film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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