Need a 1/4"-20 to 1/4"-20 female to female spigot

<p>This seems like such a stupid question but I'm stumped.<br />I'm trying to make the simplest, most secure connection between the top of my tripod (1/4"-20) male, and the bottom of my ball head clamp, also a (1/4"-20) male. I can't seem to find the obvious 1/4"-20 to 1/4"-20 female to female spigot because they are all 1/4" to 3/8".<br>

If there is no item like I describe, what bits of simple hardware bits will do the job?<br />I've cobbled together an umbrella clamp in between the tripod and ball head clamp now but that is more complicated and Rube Goldberg than I would like.<br />Suggestions?<br>

Thanks</p>

Can you post a picture of that ballhead? You could use a 3/8"-16 to 1/4"-20 thread reducer insert.

<p>I'd look for some brass or Aluminium plate and simply cut the 1/4" threads into it. - Tools are about $15 or less and always nice to have.</p>

<p>Here you go with the photo. Jochen, I'm really looking for simplicity. I know something is out there. Just don't know what it is. Here's a link to one just like what I have: http://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=272136657370&ul_noapp=true,true&chn=ps&lpid=82,82</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Have you looked at coupling nuts (used to join two threaded rods together) at your local hardware store? If you need more surface area than the end of a coupling nut, then 1/4" threaded holes in some material will work. Aluminum, drilled and tapped, is best, but I have tapped threads in plastic, hardened epoxy putty, and oak plywood that have have lasted. If you don't want to buy a tap, then drill two holes in a piece of plywood and insert T-nuts from opposite sides.</p>

<p>Bob, I had exactly the same problem, here is the solution:<br>

Novoflex 1/4"-20 Female / 1/4"-20 Female Threaded Adapter<br>

<a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=NOSCX&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&typedValue=&Top+Nav-Search=">https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=NOSCX&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&typedValue=&Top+Nav-Search=</a><br>

<br />Hope this helps.<br>

Best regards,<br>

Peter</p>

That looks pretty good Peter. Funny, I Googled like crazy and never found this.

Thanks again.

Bob

That clamp is really designed to temporarily fix a

camera or flash (with standard1/4 whitworth

thread) to a table edge or similar.

The clamp you want is presumably one with a

lighting stand spigot fixing.

 

I agree that perhaps the most cost effective solution is to tap a 1/4" thread into a short length of aluminium rod. One hole drilled, one tapping and the job's done.

<p>Joshen and Rodeo, can you post a link to the exact type of tool I would use for the 'tapping' into the plate or solid rod end? Your description of "One hole drilled, one tapping" leaves me with the question, is the process to first drill a 1/4" inch hole and then to 'tap' the 1/4" thread into the drilled hole? And does the designation 1/4-20 include the 'pitch' needed? </p>

" the question, is the process to first drill a 1/4" inch hole and then to 'tap' the 1/4" thread into the drilled hole?"

 

Yes, that's right. But doing it is more complicated than is being implied. If you already know how to do this, it's pretty easy,

otherwise a lot of explanation is in order. You'll need a drill "motor" with perhaps a 3/8" chuck (to hold the drill bit) and

ideally a variable speed; a cheap single-speed drill runs much too fast for that size hole in metal. You'll want an

appropriate "lubricant" for the drill bit, an idea of how much pressure to use (a lot), as well as a way to clamp down the

metal piece. (Don't even THINK about handholding it.) You also need a way to make sure the hole is close to "square,"

ideally you'd use some sort of guide, such as a reference block next to the drill bit. Also, the bit will tend to "wander" when

starting the hole unless you have first used a "center punch" to make a little dent in the metal, or make a much smaller

pilot hole. After drilling you'll probably have burrs on the back side of the hole; you want to break these off; they do make deburring tools for this purpose, although many people would just use a larger drill bit to do it, as well as making a slight chamfer. Be sure to wear safety glasses while drilling.

 

If you already know this stuff, and have the drill motor, etc., then you just go to the hardware store and 1) buy a 1/4-20 tap,

plus a tap holder, used to turn the tap, 2) look up the proper drill size for the tap and buy the drill bit (it should be very close

to 0.200"). Then you "simply" drill and tap the holes.

 

Note, in the designation 1/4-20, this means that the "bolt" or "screw" has an outside nominal diameter of 1/4 inch, and the

"pitch" is 20 threads per inch.

Thanks for the explanation Bill. I can also see that this is a nearly 'machine shop' little job not really suitable for this New

York City apartment dweller without a suitable workspace or tools.

I will pursue the other options.

Thanks again though.

There's very little danger of getting swarf in your

eye when drilling a soft material like aluminium or

dural, which doesn't "chip". Especially when using hand tools.

 

A 1/4" thread has an outside diameter of 1/4 inch,

therefore the initial drill size needs to be smaller.

The recommended drill size is 13/64" imperial, or

5.2 mm metric (or 5.1mm in a soft material like ali).

 

The entire drilling and tapping process can be done with hand tools + a clamp or vise. No need for power tools, although obviously an electric drill makes a quicker and easier job of things.

 

This web page shows what a suitable tapping tool looks like.

http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/taps-hand-c-185.html?page=2&14=73

 

Sets of taps can be bought much cheaper, and are good enough for light use.

<p>Bob, since you don't have the tools handy, take your gear to your local hardware store and ask for a 1/4-20 coupling nut. If it joins the parts with sufficient rigidity, you're done for $5.</p>

<p>The problem with a coupling nut or spigot to join a ball head to a tripod is the small diameter of the parts which permits flexing. There are a number of ways to create a larger diameter surface but most involve cutting, drilling, etc. One tool-free possibility is finding a pipe fitting that is barely longer than the coupling nut and slightly smaller than the ball head diameter. Screw the coupling nut into the tripod, put the pipe fitting over the nut (centered). Screw the ball head into the coupling nut and tighten against the pipe fitting. Consult with the hardware store guys ... they might find the perfect fitting for the job.</p>

<p>For the price of the Novoflex part, you could also get an inexpensive Arca-Swiss type clamp for the tripod and a camera plate (which will have a 1/4-20 threaded hole) for the ball head. Look at Desmond (and other knock-off) gear on the river site.</p>