Nikkormat FT and EL series

<p>I have Pentax Me Super but it's malfunctioning so I was looking for another film camera and I found that Nikkormat FT2 was very useful that I rented it from my school.<br>

<br />I like it so much but I have no idea about FT and EL series. Lenses are confusing too. I just need fine 50mm f1.4 or 1.8 prime lens(not too old version). Not sure if 50mm 1.4 ai lens is a good choice or not.</p>

<p>I just know that FT has fully mechanical shutter and EL has half mech and electro shutter. I still don't see any advantages of using battery powered film camera instead of fully mechanical film camera. </p>

<p>Can anyone help me about FT and EL bodies? </p>

I have owned and used an EL for 40 years. It is rock solid reliable, and I prefer the aperture priority

metering. The only part that has required maintenance is the foam seal at the bottom of the viewfinder. The FM is equally tough, but lacks an auto mode. No experience with the FT.

<p>I bought two Nikkormat ELs for travel stock photography in the late '70s, the good old days when one could shoot sell even B&W images taken in Asia, mostly one and two column magazine end of article shots - in those long ago days the UK Economist and AsiaWeek in Hongkong bought many such photos for their weekly editions. I was a freelance journalist-photographer in Sydney then and my income tended to float up and down (often steadily down for long periods), so I had to save diligently and shop carefully. My dream was to own the then-legendary 35mm f/2 OC lens and I eventually was able to buy one after saving for a year. I still have both cameras and all my original (non AI) lenses. <br /><br />Nikkormats are virtually indestructible. My two ELs still function well after 39 years in my care. I've had them serviced two times. The metering remains accurate, even with slide films. The foam in one EL was replaced in 2007 when I last had it serviced. The foam in the second EL remains as new. <br /><br />A few years ago when prices for most SLRs went south I bought three FT2s for peanuts. Someone gave me an FT3 but it kept malfunctioning and after a frustrating effort at restoring it (I was pleasantly surprised at how many Nikkormat parts are available on Ebay), I gave it up as a lost cause and gifted it to a friend who got it functioning and now uses it without the meter. <br /><br />I've read criticisms about "old Nikon glass" but for my needs all my pre AI lenses I have function well and serve their purposes. To listen to some of the naysayers on this and other photo sites, the 35mm O is little better than soft drink bottle glass, but mine continues to produce crisp, sharp B&W or color images with a good range of mid tones, also my 28mm f/3.5, a cheapie but a lens I kept permanently on one of the ELs for two decades. In the 50mm range I opted for the classic f/2 HC, having never seen had the need for the f/1.4. For other lenses the 105mm is a classic and a 135mm f/3.5 I bought a few years after the cameras has always given good results, tho I never used it much, being a standard to wide angle lens photographer. <br /><br />As for batteries, I believe the ELs will shoot at 1/90 sec with a dead battery or without one. The FT2s can be used at all speeds without. Your choice of which camera will really depend on if you want to meter in the camera or not. <br /><br />Comparing ELs to FT2s, my preference tends to the ELs, which are somewhat heavier and, I think, with better metering. The Nikkormats meter largely from the center of the image and one has to be careful when you shoot general scenes such as landscapes with a mix of strong highlights and deep shadows. For years I had a Weston Master V and did comparison metering with my Nikkormat readings. Often the difference was up to two stops and a bit of guesswork (or two exposures at the different readings) was in order. Nowadays I occasionally use a 'mat for B&W work with TMax 100 or Fuji Acros 100 and I find the EL or FT2 meter readings compare almost spot-on with those from my Nikon D700, which to me is miraculous from old cameras. <br /><br />Shooting with older SLRs and lenses is, as an English saying goes, very much a "horses for courses" issue. You have to learn your camera's quirks and adjust your mental processes and your shooting style accordingly. A little less haste, fewer shots, a little thinking and planning before you shoot and composing carefully, work wonders with old Nikkormats (or any older SLR). And for me they remain a great pleasure to work with. <br /><br />JDW<br /><br /></p>

<p>A black Nikkormat FTN was my first SLR. I owned many in that series and Nikon never made a more reliable camera. I especially liked the shutter speed dial around the lens mount which suited a left handed user.</p>

<p>Any of the Nikkormat , Ft, FTn or El, are great cameras. Any AI or non AI lens will work as long as the lens has the meter coupling "ears". The FT is the oldest of the bunch and has a very specific method of coupling the lens to the meter/ASA. If you have an FT make sure you learn how to do it. The FTn and the EL use what is called the "Nikon shuffle" to connect the lens to the meter. Again make sure you learn how to do it. There is plenty of information about these cameras on the internet. One of the advantages of these older cameras is that there are so many used lenses available for them. The 50mm F1.4 or the 50mm F2 are very good lenses and there are a lot of them are around.</p>

<p>Thank you for responds but I need more exact infos.</p>

<p>Im a film shooter so operating film camera won't be a problem. </p>

<p>Are there any advantages of using electronic shutter instead of mechanical shutter? I heard that mechanical shutter is not that accurate compare to electronic shutter. </p>

<p>Btw are there any shutter issues?</p>

<p>There is no inherent advantage to mechanical or electronic shutters in my opinion. As long as the cameras are in good condition either will work just fine. The disadvantage to the electronic shutter is that it needs a battery to work. In the Nikkormat EL if the battery dies you only have one mechanical setting that will work. If I remember correctly it is 1/90th of a second. The mechanical shutters do not need a battery to work. I have Nikkormats FT, FTn and EL and have never had any shutter problems with any of them. These cameras are very well made and with some normal care should last you a long time.</p>

The price differential between what were Nikon's

top level cameras and their second-tier ones isn't

that great these days. So I would aim higher than a

Nikkormat. Both the F2 and F3 model Nikons are currently very affordable in good "user" condition. IMHO these bodies offer better ergonomics and smoother operation, without the meter-coupling issues that are known to be common on FT Nikkormats.

 

 

As for lenses; almost any version, Ai or Ais, of 50mm Nikkor will give good results on film. Film just doesn't have the resolution to show up any shortcomings in these lenses. However, if you want one of the sharpest lenses Nikon has ever made, then look for one of their 55mm micro-Nikkors. Or a 50mm f/2, but they're not so easy to find.

<p>I believe the EL metering and shutter speeds would be far superior to those of the FT2 and FT3, which as you say are "mechanical" cameras, or certainly the FT/FTN which are 1960s cameras. I have used FTNs but nowadays I would not trust them due to their age and wear. Even mechanical cameras can malfunction.</p>

<p>This would not be a great concern with B&W or color negative films if you tend towards overexposing. For color slides, if the camera overexposes, your results will be washed out. </p>

<p>The ELs let you expose very precisely,for example at 1/87 or 1/245 second. FT2s seem to operate on fixed speeds, and top speeds such as 1/1000 second may not be accurate. If you are overly fussy about exactly accurate speeds (as I am), you should go for an EL.</p>

<p>With my ELs and FT2s, I check the batteries regularly for leakage, I remove the batteries when the cameras are not used for long periods of time, and I keep the cameras safely stored and clean, especially clean battery compartments. Small steps like these will keep your Nikkormats functioning for a very long time. </p>

<p>With old cameras, two rules generally apply, (1) you get what you pay for and (2) a well-maintained but obviously used camera will likely give you far better results than one that appears "mint" but may operate badly due to little use and poor or no servicing.</p>

<p>If I was looking to buy a Nikkormat today and intending to use it for a long time, I would look to buy in the following order: FT2/FT3, EL, FTN, FT. Personally, I wouldn't bother with the last two, they are old technology and the later models operate better. My ELs have never had any metering or shutter problems in 39 years. Another consideration is batteries for FTNs and FTs which I believe are difficult to find and some modification to the cameras may be required to use modern batteries.</p>

<p>Unless you are a dedicated gearhead, FTNs and FTs are not worth the time and effort you will have to put into coddling and maintaining them. Go for a newer model.</p>

<p>JDW</p>

<p>Rodeo Joe, can you buy F2s and F3s for the price of a Nikkormat? Tell me where, I will buy a dozen...</p>

<p>In Australia my FT2s cost me about $100 each a few years ago. ELs nowadays sell for somewhat higher, expecially with a lens. F2s and F3s are going for a few hundred (Aussie) dollars more, although I'm not sure if they sell or not at those prices. I agree about the 55mm Micro Nikkor. Ebay is loaded with sellers who want to offload 50mm f/2 lenses, at prices ranging from absurdly low to living in dreamland. Australian photo gear prices in general are higher than US prices, though. </p>

<p>If one were to buy only one lens for a Nikkormat, I would opt for the 35mm f/2 OC or as a second choice the 28mm f/3.5. Of course this would depend on whether the would-be buyer/shooter sees images in a wide angle or "normal" viewpoint.</p>

<p>JDW</p>

I can't speak for Aussie prices, but the last F2 I

bought cost me UK £50 IIRC, in pretty beat up but

fully working condition admittedly. A couple of

years ago I bought an F3HP with a couple of slight

dents for £75, and I can't imagine that prices for

film gear have soared since.

 

As for Nikkormats - no idea what they fetch. I bought a used FTN many years ago, only to find that the metering ring surrounding the lens mount was gummed with gunk and the meter inoperable. I cleaned it up and got it working, but it was more trouble than it was worth. Wouldn't touch another one thanks.

 

I'm still of the opinion that a silky smooth and utterly reliable F2 is a better buy than a clunky and quirkily designed Nikkormat. Even if it does cost a bit more.

<p>I have had a FTN for 50 years and it is as good as the day I bought it. I shoot digital now with a d810 but the FTN will always be with mr just like my F3 HP.</p>

<p>At the very least, I would be looking for cameras from the Ai era, so either FT3 or EL2 at the very least. An FM or FE would be considered by me as a step up from there, even better if it was a FM2 or FE2. If I wanted to splurge but stay in that type of camera: FM3A. An F3 is a bit trickier as the metering is heavily weighted towards spot, and the camera is not especially suited for flash photography.</p>

<p>I now have an EL2 and FT3, both bought through a nearby Goodwill auction, for about USD50 each. As noted, those are the AI versions of the EL and FT2, I suppose with some other differences, but AI is the main one.</p>

<p>As well as I know it, the FE and FM were designed as follow-ons to those, using lighter metals.<br>

(The FM was my first Nikon, and the first camera that I bought for myself, not counting inherited ones.)</p>

<p>My more recent Goodwill camera as an F2A, which is the AI version of the F2. (The finders are changeable, so it is the AI version of the finder.) I haven't tried it with film yet, but trying it without film, the shutter seems to work fine. I haven't tried the meter yet.)</p>

<p>The pre-AI cameras should go for very low prices. The FT3 is a little rare, as it came out not so long before being replaced by the FM. Many modern lenses will work on AI cameras, but not on older versions. </p>

<p>You might also look at the FD Canon cameras. They are also fine cameras, but the lenses are not compatible with newer cameras. The switch from FD to EF came somewhat later than the Nikon switch to AI, so many good FD lenses are out there. The FTn is a nice old camera, somewhat like the Nikon FT2 (I wonder about the name similarity). I believe it is supposed to have a mercury battery, but is close enough for black and white with a newer battery. There are the T70, T80, and T90, and also the A series, AE1, AT1, AV1, A1, all using FD lenses, and similar in time and longevity to the Nikons of similar ages. </p>

<p>An advantage for Nikon, though, AI lenses will work on all the old cameras, through many, but not all, Nikon DSLRs. Specifically, some have the AI metering ring to follow the position of the aperture ring. Ones without that will work, but won't meter, so you need a handheld light meter. </p>

<p>On the early Nikkormats (FT, FTn, FT2), the resistor under the speed setting ring wears out causing the light meter to be jumpy. I have read that they fixed this problem by using more durable material for the resistor on the FT3 and later FT2s. I have one FT2 with a solid meter but the meter on my FT3 is jumpy so there may be other factors at work as well.<br>

The FT and FTn used a mercury battery for which you can substitute a 675 zinc-air hearing aid battery. Later Nikkormats used a silver oxide battery. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>On the early Nikkormats (FT, FTn, FT2), the resistor under the speed setting ring wears out causing the light meter to be jumpy. I have read that they fixed this problem by using more durable material for the resistor on the FT3 and later FT2s. I have one FT2 with a solid meter but the meter on my FT3 is jumpy so there may be other factors at work as well.</p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

I remember when I bought my FM, there were Nikon brochures advertising the metal evaporated on glass resistor. Old switch contacts and especially resistors are always a problem. Especially volume controls on older audio equipment.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><br />The FT and FTn used a mercury battery for which you can substitute a 675 zinc-air hearing aid battery. Later Nikkormats used a silver oxide battery.<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>So far, I have used alkaline cells in all my old cameras. For ones that are voltage sensitive, it has been close enough for me. Zinc air cells are cheaper, but don't last as long. It depends on the usage pattern for the camera. </p>

<p>Another battery option for the cameras that used the mercury batteries is the battery adapter from criscam.com. They allow the use of a silver battery. I do not know much about electronics but the adapters have some sort of resistor circuit that steps down the voltage of the silver battery to match the voltage of the mercury batteries. I have been using them very successfully in my Nikon FTn and my Nikkromats FT and FTn. This is from their website: Uses a readily available silver oxide 386 Battery· Installs into camera or meter the same as the original battery· No additional modification is necessary· Micro-circuitry reduces voltage to meet original specifications· A one time Purchase; lasts a lifetime with normal use The MR-9 Adapter replaces the <strong>PX13</strong> and<strong> PX625</strong> Mercury batteries used in many collectable cameras and older photographic equipment. Using one silver oxide 386 battery (NOT INCLUDED), the MR-9 steps the voltage down to 1.35 volts.</p>

The Nikon EL2 switched to Silicon Photocells, more reliable and accurate than the older CDS cells used in the Nikkormat

EL and ELw. As noted, the EL2 is an Ai camera, but can be used with non-Ai lenses using stopped-down metering. The FT3, FT2 both used a single 1.5v battery for their CDS cells.

<p>The 1N5711 Schottky diode, with a metal silicon junction, has a forward voltage drop of about 0.25V:<br>

http://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/a8/9d/10/57/ac/a3/4f/81/CD00000759.pdf/files/CD00000759.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00000759.pdf</p>

<p>The diode itself costs about USD 0.50, but the adapters are much more than that. <br>

If I buy a camera for $10, I am not likely to want to spend more than that on adapters.<br>

(I bought a Canon FTb for $11, with lens. It has an alkaline battery in it.)</p>

<p>Some people open the camera and solder it in series with the battery, near the battery compartment. I haven't tried that on any cameras or light meters yet.</p>

<p>For many, the exposure will be off by about a factor of the ratio of battery voltages. You can adjust the ASA value that you set. (I presume these cameras are from the ASA days.) For some, the effect might be less linear. </p>

<p>For two cell cameras, either two of those diodes, or one Germanium diode, might work.</p>