Pentax ZX10

<p>My son bought me a used Pentax ZX10 camera with lenses and all but it seems to have a problem. When I put the film in and started taking pictures it all of a sudden started rewinding the film. I had only taken three or pictures when it did this. I thought well maybe I did something wrong on the film. So I loaded another roll. It did the same thing. Would this be an easy fix or is the camera completely shot? I was very excited when I saw it as I love taking pictures and with all the different lenses I was going to be able to learn more about taking pictures. Can anyone help?<br>

Thank you !<br>

Connie</p>

<p>Working MZ-5 or ZX-5 cameras are so cheap, and so much better than the ZX-10, that it certainly makes no sense to have the ZX-10 repaired. Just view them as fun, but disposable. <br>

The <strong>lenses</strong> are where your value is.</p>

 

So should my lenses work with

that style also?

<p>I am also wondering which lenses did you get? They may be useful for use with a DSLR as well, if you are interested. Pentax has some of the most advanced, full-featured DSLR bodies for the money. </p>

<p>If you wish to continue with film, the ZX-5n would indeed be a good choice, but it only takes lenses having an aperture ring for access to all exposure modes. Another good inexpensive body in this series was the ZX-L, which could allow use of an aperture ring's mechanical aperture control, or also has electronic control of aperture available for lenses not having an aperture ring. Conversely, some older lenses have only the aperture ring with no "A" for automatic electronic control by the camera. Both of these models have spot metering available. </p>

 

<p>I couldn't agree more with Michael's suggestion. Both the ZX-5n and ZX-L are great cameras. My wife has the ZX-5n. I ultimately replaced the motor in it and spent like $150 to do so. The replacement motors are supposed to be better and we didn't have any further issues with the camera (not that it got much use, my wife switch to digital Canon (7D)!). That's $150 I wish I had never spent! Of the two, as Michael noted, the ability to use aperture-less lenses might be an advantage of the ZX-L although, and I'm not sure about this, there maybe some vignetting with those lenses (D). I personally like the layout of the ZX-5n more- I owned the ZX-7, a nice camera, but it has the 'shooting modes' which the ZX-L has and I personally didn't like or use very much. <br>

If you want to step up and spend more money, there is the MZ-S. There still is demand for that camera as it was the most full-featured film camera Pentax ever made.<br /><br /></p>

<p>Doug, of course, is right. The MZ-S is an exceptionally fine camera, and was published in Popular Photography's "Professional 35mm Cameras" listing. It was easily the smallest and lightest of this category, yet very well built with its metal magnesium alloy body. It does, however, also require any lens used with it to have an aperture ring for shooting in manual mode (M) or aperture preferred (Av). The ZX-L, therefore, is the most flexible in regards to lenses. It will simply accept both types and function either way. I agree about the control layout factor of the 5n, which offers center-weighted metering as well, if you should ever want it. It also has a superior, professional type viewfinder like the MZ-S. But the ZX-L is more sophisticated in its other control options, quite good for such a modest, compact model. I still own all three models, and have not encountered any vignetting from any lens due to the camera.</p>

<p>You can find lens information right on the lens as to the brand, focal length range, maximum aperture, etc. Check just inside the front lens rim or around its edge. Also by its base. If there is an aperture ring, it is like a collar near the base with a list of number values (aperture settings) you can select by rotating the collar. It may have an "A" setting for electronic aperture control by the camera body's system for auto program modes instead of having to rotate the ring.</p>

<p>The details of this information would be very helpful for us to get an idea of the class of lenses you have, and their potential uses.<br>

</p>

<p> </p>

<p>One other thing- often a lens will have a thin protective filter screwed into its front having its own writing around its edge. This is not part of the lens.</p>

<p>I sure appreciate all the advise. I have three lenses. #1) a 0 with a line through it then 55 Sigma Zoom, 100-300mm, 1:4.5-6.7 UC. It has a red dot on it, has lock then A some kind of angle line the 32 22 16 11 8 4.5. #2) a 0 with line through it 52 Sigma Super-Wide II, 1:28, f=24mm, multi-coated, MACRO Sigma AF Super Wide A with angled line 22 16 11 8 5.6 4 2.8. #3) a 0 with line through it 55 Sigma Zoom 28-80mm, 1:3.5-5.6 MACRO, A with angled line 22 16 11 8 5.6 3.5. This has a slide switch to change from Normal or Macro at 80. Also says ASPHERICAL on it. I also have filters with it. #1) MARUMI 55MM C-P.L #2) TEFFON 5.5MM UV PROTECTOR. All my lenses have a red dot and there are also some pins like on it kind of at an angle down from the red dot. I wish I knew more but I'm not very good with these. I do appreciate all the help you have given already. If not that much I may get a 35MM and a digital that I could use my lenses on. I also have a cup looking device that I'm assuming fits on the lenses as well.<br>

Thank you all very much!<br>

Connie</p>

Also what would be a good DSLR

just in case I go that route? I

found a used ZX-7 for$30.

Thanks again!!!!!

<p>Well,<br>

For a short explaining about the 'A', this is a setting on the aperture-ring that locks the lens in its smallest Aperture (for example f/22) and it then can be controlled directly out of the body. As long as you can 'unlock' the aperture (depressing the 'A' and turning the ring yourself) all the exposure-functions of for example the ZX-5 (MZ-5 is the same model, for European market) or ZX-5n are availlaible, including the Manual (M) and Aperture-Priority (AV) modus. <br>

If you have a lens that doesn't unlock and only has 'A', with these bodies you cannnot use the 'M' and 'AV' modus but all automatic moduses will still work.<br />I have an MZ-10 (same as ZX-10) for some lenses that don't have this ring since all modus are availlaible from the body also without the locking mechanism or withouth aperture-ring. Only a few models exist that can use both types in all modes.<br>

MZ-10 (Zx-10) also provides some automatic recognision program-modes (with the smile) which balances automaticallly between speed and aperture on a different way than the automatic program-modus in for example the 'P' or the 'Auto'-modus on the MZ-5 / ZX-5.<br />Both types of body support panoramic setting with a simple switch.<br>

About the vignetting: both bodies and also lenses are made for 35mm, thus normally no extra vignetting. Als not if you would use the lenses on an digital body with a crop-factor (but why should you, you have a nice film-body).<br>

The problem with rewinding to fast could be related to stiff-wounded film that has been lying around for a long time, maybe in combination with a body that hasn't been used often enough so it runs a bit sticky. You can try just to run a fresh film through it a couple of times and just clean it out and a good chance that it works very well also with older 'sticky' film. it is like the door in a house: if you don't use it for a long time it tends to go a bit harder but after 20 or some openings it goes ligher again. And of course it is never a good thing to use old sticky film ;-)</p>

 

<p>Connie,</p>

<p>The Zx-7 is a decent digital body, I still have one, but I don't use it much. It's only Achilles Heal is that it doesn't have fantastic high ISOs. You get some 'noise' (noticeable pixels) at the higher ISOs<br>

One more point, digital cameras are 'bargains' once you factor in the purchase and processing of film. Typically what, decent processing and decent film runs about $15 a roll. It adds up. When you factor in that cost, a new Pentax camera that runs $300-400 (like a KS-1) looks pretty good. Digital cameras though don't last forever (what does?) so a good thing is to get a shutter count on a used camera before you leap, the lower the better. But $30 might be worth the risk.<br>

The nice thing, any Pentax digital body save the *istD can use any K mount or screw mount (+adapter) lenses (with limitations). It is easier to use lenses with an 'A' setting. That way you have access to Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority settings. </p>

 

<p>Maybe to be clear, the ZX-7 is not an 'digital body' in the way that is it is a digital camera.<br>

See for more info http://www.pentaxforums.com/camerareviews/pentax-mz-7-zx-7.html<br>

It is still using film so it is not any kind of 'digital camera' although the controls are "digital"/ controlled with electronics instead of the old-fashioned knobs and dials.<br>

to avoid confusion...<br>

About the price and use of a 'digital camera' that uses a digital sensor instead of film and 'real film', there is also the liking of the film and of course all the other costs that you get with digital photographing. For one, you need a fast computer, accu's, SD-cards, backup-media and so on besides de camera itself. <br>

A film and processing doesn't normally cost 30 Euro's or so, but a lot less and you will probably not find a good second hand body with charger, working batteries (that will work long), and so on for under 300 Euro's. If you already got a computer and so on it is still a lot of extra costs. Besides that old bodies don't give the quality that you get nowadays from newer bodies. <br>

I have had some digital bodies as well like a K-100D and it was using a lot more batteries at the end of its usefull life then in the beginning. Not usefull anymore even with new battteries since after about 5 pictures the battery ran empty.<br>

But main thing: the feel of digital is different then from analog (film) photographing. Very hard to compare.</p>

<p>You have a 35mm film SLR camera and corresponding lenses. SLR means when you look through the viewfinder you are actually looking right through the lens itself instead of a separate viewfinder like a point & shoot camera. The digital version of this is a DSLR. 35mm film means that the actual size of the picture frame on the film measures 36mm long by 24mm high. Most DSLR cameras have sensors that are smaller- 24mm long by 16mm high (APS-C size), which is still far larger than sensors of most point & shoot digital compact cameras. A DSLR having the same size sensor as 35mm film bodies is called a "full-frame" model. They are very expensive. The larger sensors allow for greater sizes in doing big prints and blowups while preserving quality.</p>

<p>The 32, 22, 16, 11, 8, etc. are "f" aperture settings on the aperture rings of your lenses. There is a little release button to move the aperture ring off from "A" to select a particular aperture. Leaving it on"A" means aperture is then selected from the camera body to the degree that body's controls allow. Pentax DSLR cameras are designed to leave the lens set on "A" with full aperture controls provided on the camera body. Newer lenses designed for DSLR use do not even have an aperture ring at all A smaller number actually means a larger aperture. The one lens you have that can go to f/2.8 is capable of opening up its aperture bigger to allow more light to come in to the film or sensor. This can increase your shutter speed because if there is less light through the lens, the shutter speed has to be slower to let in more light. If you can have a faster shutter speed you can freeze subjects for clearer faster action shots, or hand hold the camera in dimmer light without blur due to your body's slight motion. But a greater aperture (smaller number) also means less depth of field- less of the background/foreground will be sharp. This can be a good or a bad thing. These are some reasons why it is important for the photographer to be able to select a particular aperture.</p>

<p>The red dot is there to help line up the lens when attaching it to the camera. If you remove the lens that is on the camera by holding down the release button on the front of the camera near the bottom next to the lens, and turning the lens counter-clockwise, you will see a corresponding red dot on the lens mount. To put a lens onto the camera you do not need to use the release button. Just line up the lens' red dot to the one on the camera's lens mount, and turn clock-wise after the lens sinks into place. You will detect a "click" when the lens is secured.</p>

<p>The 55mm and 52mm on your lenses are the sizes for filters that would fit in order to screw them into the lens' front end to go over the front glass element, as well as the front lens cap size. You have 2 filters of different brands and types, both of the same size-55mm. The UV filter is mainly used as a protector for the lens' front element. The other is a circular polarizing filter, and can be very useful for cutting reflections and for extra bluing up of the sky on sunny days. It has its own little inner ring to rotate it for best effect after it is installed on your lens. The #2 means 2-stops, which indicates its strength. This filter's benefits come at a price, which is cutting the amount of light coming through your lens. 2 stops means cutting the light once in half then cutting that again in half. So if your shutter speed using the same film sensitivity, or ISO on a DSLR, under the same lighting conditions, would be cut to 1/4 of that without the filter. You can often compensate by selecting a larger aperture, or if your camera is in an auto-program mode, it will do this automatically. It will display the figures, in case you wish to set a different value yourself. The little "cup" is probably a rear lens cover for when the lens is off the camera.. It is the same size for all lenses that fit on a Pentax body.</p>

<p>The bottom line for film and digital: <br /> With digital you can shoot away and not be concerned about the cost and inconvenience of film processing. And you can see your results right away and make adjustments if needed. It is convenient for sending through the internet. <br /> Many of us still occasionally shoot film. If I want multiple sets of 5x7 prints, I can get a better deal over digital if I order at the time of film processing. Or just for the special qualities of a particular film. You can also order your photos to be put on a CD as well as your prints at the time of processing at little extra cost. The files are usually small and of lesser quality, but good enough to view on a computer or to e-mail. Film is still best for learning photography in terms of setting your exposure- as shooting slide film is the purest way of getting the exact exposure you have selected when shooting in manual mode and choosing you own aperture and shutter speed by taking meter readings, using the camera's meter system. Having both film and digital can be enjoyable. A decent used DSLR I would think could be found in say the $100-200 range. A good ZX 5n or ZX-L for a song.</p>

<p>You may be able to still get a killer deal on a recently discontinued brand new K-50 DSLR body. Around the $300 or maybe less. It has a weather-sealed body, which can be found with other brands starting in the $1,000 range. Check B&H Photo, or Adorama, or Amazon. Or if a used model, the Pentax Forums website, or KEH have had good reports. Come to think of it, I have some low-use bodies I no longer use I should sell and list them soon.</p>

<p>Your Sigma brand 100-300mm is a medium-to-long telephoto zoom lens. On a DSLR, because of the smaller sensor size, you get the effect of a yet longer tele range, but still using the same lens. The multiplying factor is about 1.5x so the size closeup of a distant subject you would get in your picture would be about like having a 150-450mm lens on your film body.</p>

<p>Your Sigma 28-80mm is a wide angle-to-moderate telephoto on your film body. Versatile for many scenes. The "macro" setting is for getting very close to a small subject, like flowers, bugs, etc. Lenses without any macro capability cannot focus at as close a distance as those that have macro or are designed specifically as macro lenses, which are better yet. This lens is less useful on a DSLR because it no longer offers any wide angle. 28mm x 1.5 = 42mm which is not a very wide view. If you decide to get a DSLR it would therefore be advisable to also get a "kit" lens of at least 18-55mm, which is about equivalent to your 28-80mm on your film body. Pentax makes one that is also weather sealed, and is pretty cheap if you buy it packaged with a new camera body. With that all weather sealed setup you could shoot in the rain! Your Sigma's 80mm macro setting could still be useful on a DSLR.</p>

<p>Your Sigma "Super wide" 24mm lens is not really SUPER wide, but is extra-wide over your 28mm-80mm zoom lens. It is not a zoom lens. It stays at 24mm, and is referred to as a"prime" lens. Prime lenses are known to frequently have superior optical quality over zoom lenses, while zoom lenses offer greater versatility to frame your shot from where you stand. 24mm x 1.5= 36mm which is still a wide angle view on a DSLR. And it offers the bigger f2.8 aperture option. And it also has a macro setting- unusual for wide angle lens. This is the lens of highest optical quality among those you have. There are zoom lenses that have very fine optical quality, even some having f/2.8 aperture settings, but such are generally very expensive, and are heavier, bigger lenses.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you to everyone for your help. I will start searching for a camera body and try to learn more about taking pictures which I love to do. If I have more questions I will certainly come back to this forum. It is awesome and full of info. You all were great.</p>

 

<p>One other tid-bit. You can get a little step down double-threaded adaptor ring allowing your 55mm polarizing filter to be used on your 52mm lens. It would be specific for 55/52mm. You could get another for an even smaller size lens. They are not expensive. You cannot, however, go to a larger size lens. It only works going the downwards direction, to smaller lens sizes than your filter size.</p>

<p>Don't want to scare anyone away with too much information.</p>

<p>ZX-7 is fine. For that price I'd expect it to be pristine. Ideally the vendor will accept a return if it doesn't work. It's very much like the ZX-10 you have, but slightly nicer and newer.</p>

<p>The next model up from there with similar operation but a few more features is the MZ-6 or ZX-L (same camera, different names for different markets). I would avoid the MZ/ZX-30/50/60 bodies as they have the 'crippled' mount with reduced lens compatibility.</p>

<p>Any of these will work fine with lenses that will work on a ZX10. These are not high-end cameras, but are very lightweight and about as easy to use as SLR film cameras get. If you end up liking shooting with this camera, there's a nice & cheap battery pack "Fg" (~$15-20) which allows you to power any MZ/ZX camera with 4xAA batteries instead of the lithium cells, and the extra height it adds to the body can makes it a little more comfortable to hold for some.</p>

<p>Some other posters are correct that film & film processing can get expensive vs. digital but since you have some suitable lenses already, these cameras are fun and inexpensive so I see no reason not to get a functioning body for the price of a pizza dinner and shoot a few rolls (for the price of another dinner or two).</p>

<p>Good valuable info, Andrew. The very cheap prices of film bodies these days makes it attractive to own both film and digital bodies.</p>

<p>Michael, I wish I spent more time with my film bodies. I really like the ZX-L as long as I don't start thinking too much about the smallish viewfinder and the less flexible spotmeter control. The MZ-5n or MZ-S are better in that regard...but I actually like the toggle control (surrounding the shutter button) for shutter speed/aperture/EV-compensation more than the harder to operate dials on the MZ-5n and MZ-5.</p>

<p>Well, Comparing bodies...<br>

I have more and use the one I like more for 'the job' and the lens I take with me.<br>

For example: with the MZ-5 I can do some bracketing and repeat-photographing very fast so it is very suitable for sports, but also for doing macro since it is very easy to use "spot-metering" and it is working very nicely with non-A-lenses: if you turn the ring on the lens away from 'A' it is in manual-modus or half-automat. The flip-control combined with the two wheels that you can turn (and they don't turn by accident) to select a modus is real good for me.<br>

But: with the MZ-10 I can use lenses that only work well with an 'A' since I can then select the aperture from within the body. I have some lenses without an aperture-ring and also one on which you can hardly turn the ring if it is attached to a body like the MZ-5/MZ-10/MZ-xxx because of the little flash on top of the body. Those lenses work fine on the MZ-10. It is more difficult to control for many things for me and I miss some settings. The automatic controls that you can select on the left can be very handy at times (for example taking the sports-setting so that the automatically selected aperture is relatively wide so that the shutter is faster.<br>

Well I have them both and also some other bodies so I can select which suits my needs best in the way I like it with the lens I want to take with me.<br>

Like I wrote, I'd try to get the MZ-10 working simply by cleaning it and running a couple of fresh/new films through it and maybe get the MZ-7 as an extra body so you can choose in which situation you like to use which. It is also handy that you don't have to switch the lenses from your body so you could leave the wide-angle lens on one body and work with the tele-zoom in the other for example. Or of course use black-and-white film in one and colour in the other...</p>

<p>Connie,<br>

If you use google, you may be able to find manuals / instruction sheets for each of your lenses, which will help you understand the controls on them. It may also be worth your while getting a cheap book on 35mm photography, which will explain the use of shutter speed and lens aperture, so you can get the most out of your equipment.<br>

Good luck.<br>

Tony</p>