Minox 35ML

<p>My camera has been pronounced DOA by Don Goldberg.<br />He indicates the special electronic board allowing for programed shooting is defective and no longer available. Only by finding a donor can this camera be brought back to life.<br />As I understand it, the typical lifespan of these cameras is about 25 minutes or so. Amazing they ever released them for sale.<br />Is the ML the only one having this type of electronics or are there others I could try to find<br />Steve</p>

<p>I used to have a 35GT. How is the ML different?</p>

<p>I bought a dead Minox EL for $10USD back three years ago. One day just for fun, I removed the plastic baffle inside the film chamber. It's held in place by friction, just reach in with finger and pull gently. Take a cotton bud on a stick (Q-Tip), moisten lightly with fingernail polish remover and clean magnets(2) surrounding the back lens tube. Don't allow this liquid to go anywhere else, corrosive to plastic. While there lightly clean rear optics with clean cotton bud, don't scrub. Reassemble baffle gently press back into place 'til it clicks. Line battery cavity with a rolled up piece of heavy paper to act as an insulator. Place button batteries plus side out, replace cap. Try shutter now.....This method worked for me, I was able to shoot a roll of film. I may have to do this again as camera hasn't been used in over a year and may need another "bath". DIY at your own risk and at "0" expense.</p>

<p>dead GT shutter can be revived in the field with a swiss army knife. i did it twice. tried it on the ML, but no honey, the shutter mechanism looked very different. can't comment on electronics</p>

 

<p>Err, my camera is the ML model. As I don't have a GT, I really don't need info on the GT shutter system, thanks anyway.<br>

Differences between various model are noted at the Submini. com 'variations' page. The ML has a programed Auto mode vs strict Aperture Priority auto mode. In former, the program picks f stop and speed. In latter, you pick f stop and it picks speed. I'm sure someone will want to correct my attempt to draw a simple distinction. Possibly, that could be a new thread's topic.<br>

Please, I'm trying to keep this on my quest to bring a dead ML back. What I'm really looking for is info as to whether any other cameras had similar electronics. If so I could broaden my search for a donor.</p>

<p>Minox MDC has similar look and function ad ML<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5807352-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="530" /><br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5786343-md.jpg" alt="" width="678" height="425" /></p>

<p>Lovely pic of the MDC. I only wish I could afford one. IAE, I'm sure they have the same electronics problems, as they both seem to have the same program electronic shutter system.<br>

I ended up buying a replacement ML. I'll use it as a user as long as it lives (bets on weeks of life to be taken) and then try to have DAG cobble one user from the combined parts.<br>

S</p>

<p>Oh yes, the pics really make my ML look very sad. It is really trying my convictionthis hobby is all about the pics and not the equipment!<br>

steve</p>

<p>I hope Minox resurrects the Minox 35mm format, and comes up with a digital version of<br>

Minox ML, with barn door cover, manual focusing lens, optical viewfinder and a screen at the back.</p>

<p>Well I obtained another ML camera and it seems a dud. The LED indicators light up, but the shutter doesn't open. I'm expecting this is another DOA camera and just hate sending it off to DAG to get the same result as I obtained when I sent the initial ML to him.<br>

Not much more I can do in the quest to obtain a good working ML. Acutally, when all is over and I buy another five to test 'em, the Titanal finish MDC camera may be a better deal!</p>

<p>Steve </p>

<p>Better get a MDC, once sold more than $1000, now much cheaper.</p>

<p>Many years ago my ML had shutter problem, it was send to Kindermann Canada to fix. At that time parts.<br>

were still available, they upgrade my ML's electronics, and clean the viewfinder.<br>

BTW, all Minox 35 cameras shutter are similar, you may try to clean the shutter. Most of time Minox 35 shutter fail due to dust clogging the shutter magnet,s gap, disabled the electromagnetic shutter.</p>

<p>ML or MDC has memory lock function and program mode(P mode), the camera selects the optimum aperture and shutter beside aperture priority mode; GT series has no program mode, no memory lock ( lock exposure at one position, then shift camera to another position to shoot), hence ML, has better electronics</p>

<p>There were two variations in 35ML. The later serial numbers used the improved electronics as found in the MDC.<br>

The 35ML remains my perfered Minox 35mm and has given me my best results. The goldtop is good, but with databack and thicker it does not feel the same. THe GT-II flakes it's Nextel surface and after two rolls of film in it looks old, even abused.</p>

<p>Minox MDC was based on Minox 35ML with Minoxar lens instead of Minoctar lens.<br>

Redesigned shutter and aperture control ring<br>

The body is covered with anodized aluminium coated with Titanium Eloxart, hence its bodyis slightly thicker and wider than ML. Cannot fit into regular Minox leather case for GT,ML. There was special case for MDC.</p>

 

<p>Greetings Steve, While there was plenty of premium german craftsmanship and fine quality put into the design and make of the ML, but sadly as you have discovered that unfortunately was not enough to save it from having issues with the electronics. The mid 1980's could still perhaps be regarded as an infancy stage with electronic circuitry for many camera makers who were trying compete against the well founded and cost efficient production methods of their japanese rivals.<br />Not all ML's are duds however and I do hope you will continue in trying to find a functinal one. It might help to try and find one with a later serial number above 7171450. This is when Minox had implemented some improvements with the shutters. The grand and beautiful MDC of which Martin has displayed is an offspring of the ML design and can sometimes be purchased for under $200...which is a steal. Technically they are quite functionally sound and reliable compared to all of the older Minox 35's.<br />Should you ever land a working Minox ...always try and keep them in regular use and never let a battery go dead for long in them as stagnation of use and current flow seems to also be a common factor for many DOA Minox.</p>

<p>You may opt for another Minox model other than the ML. I find that GT-E (1st) models seem to have much less incidence with shutter failure as do their other siblings. This may largely be attributed to the added UV filter which are built in the focussing ring mounted over the front of the lens. While intended mainly for UV ray reduction it also unwittingly servs as an additional barrier against outside contaminants and moisture from infecting the shutter magnets inside the lens housing.</p>

<p>Many people balk at Minox 35's for their issues with reliability, but I for some reason remain passionate about them. I love them for not only having this unique quality for almost always keeping subjects at east and with natural expressions...unmindful of the camera, but also because they tend to have that very same effect on also while I'm taking the pictures.</p>

<p>Hello there,<br>

I am actually about to pick up a used Minox 35 ML. The guy is willing to sell it for 10 bucks, however the battery is dead and he cannot see the shutter moving through the lens when it fires. Does it have to do something with the dead battery or should the shutter work just fine without the battery and this camera is another victim of the shutter issues that these small gems are suffering from?<br>

Many thanks for your help!</p>

<p>David, the 35ML need a battery to operate the shutter. Energizer L544 6V BATTERY</p>