Buying 1st Hasselblad- is this a good deal?

<p>Hi everyone,<br>

I'm new around here as a member, but have been reading for quite a while. I'm a photography student and looking to buy my first Hasselblad. I found a kit on Craigslist and would like some input as so whether this is a good deal or not. I haven't seen it in person- these are the seller's rating conditions. He's asking $1,500. Thank you!</p>

<p>500c/m body- rating condition 9<br>

Waist level view finder 9<br>

A12 back, chrome 9<br>

A12 back, black 10<br>

Sonnar 4/150 with shade 9<br>

Distagon 4/50 FLE with shade 10<br>

Extension tube #16<br>

Focus screen with central grid #42234<br>

Beattie brightness enhancing screen with 8x10 crops<br>

Bellows shade<br>

Boxes and manual<br>

<img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/classichippie313/IMG_3333_zps866b0e44.jpg" alt="" width="414" height="716" /><br>

<img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/classichippie313/IMG_3334_zps574f6941.jpg" alt="" width="412" height="546" /></p>

Looks good.<br>The asking price too (not too expensive. But also not really cheap, in my opinion).<br>But that caveat emptor thing: a seller may rate his stuff anyway he likes. Whether it is accurate has to be seen.

Looks like a great kit. That 50mm fle is a smoker. I've had one for years, hard to describe what a fine lens that is...

<p>I asked to meet him at my local film lab to shoot a roll and have them process it immediately so I can make sure everything works there's no light leaks. He agreed and I checked the serial numbers also and they match what he's told me. This is what he said:<br /><br />"No fungus. The glass on both lenses are excellent. Shutter speeds are up to par based on my exposures only. No light leaks. I have the original screen, but a Beattie bright screen in currently in the viewfinder. I bought the body and 150mm lens used in 1997, the 50mm and A-12 back I purchased new in '97. Was used moderately for 5 years, not too much lately. It has not been serviced. I am selling it because I just don't use it anymore. It is a little hard for me to sell my equipment, but it doesn't make sense for me to keep it."<br /> <br /> I know I'll need to get an 80mm also, but from what I've read and heard, this is a good deal especially because of the 50mm FLE.<br />From what I've read, a CLA can be pretty pricey. Other than something malfunctioning, how do you know when it's needed? Thanks for your advice, everyone.</p>

The date ranges and everything sounds perfectly legit for that equip. CLA with those is normal business, they are highly

precision mechanical machines and need an occassional go over. David Odess is highly recommended around here. I

used to use Brad Sherman in NJ or Hasselblad in Fairfield NJ but I don't know any more aside from those who like

Odess's work. Fire the camera at the different shutters and listen to the sounds of the slower speeds. The 1/2 and 1 make

a kind of delayed winding sound which is normal. 1/4 should be a distinct c-a-lick. If the stuff is as clean as it looks it

should be fine, but we can't tell from photos if the lubricants are dry etc. How heavy do you plan to use it and example for

what specifically? Also the flash syncs would have to be tested by using a PC connected flash and viewing through the back with the film magazine off to see the shutter sync and operate.

<p>Thank you, Dave. I'll start another fund for a complete CLA. My teacher referred me to a certified Hassy guy in LA that's supposed to be great, but I'll look into others also.<br>

I'm in school for photography currently, but that's mostly digital, so I will mainly be using it for personal work. I used film when I was younger, but it was just a point and shoot. I really want to learn more about film and completely fell in love with the Hasselblad the few times I've used one.<br>

I didn't know anything about testing the flash sync, but I will read up on exactly how to do that. Thanks so much!</p>

<p>Rather odd for him to go from 50 all the way to 150 w/o another lens in the middle.<br>

I would think about an 80mm CF to bridge the gap.<br />Budget about $400 for an 80mm CF.<br>

As for a CLA, for reference, here are David's repair charges:<br />http://www.david-odess.com/repair.html<br />It is close to what International Camera Tech up in the SF Bay Area charges.<br>

The cost to servicing these old cameras back to good condition is a shocking expense.</p>

OK, Lindsay, sounds like you're pretty set. Yes, if you can go to someone that knows their stuff locally and meet them in

person that's always good too.

<p>Thank you, Dave. I'll start another fund for a complete CLA. My teacher referred me to a certified Hassy guy in LA that's supposed to be great, but I'll look into others also.<br>

I'm in school for photography currently, but that's mostly digital, so I will mainly be using it for personal work. I used film when I was younger, but it was just a point and shoot. I really want to learn more about film and completely fell in love with the Hasselblad the few times I've used one.<br>

I didn't know anything about testing the flash sync, but I will read up on exactly how to do that. Thanks so much!</p>

<p>You might want to cross check the prices for individual pieces with KEH.</p>

<p>Les</p>

I think it is a phenomenal deal, especially with a pristine 50mm FLE.

Nice looking kit. Price is good if as nice as it looks. The 50 goes for 500 to 900 bucks or so alone typically. I have almost this exact

setup, never bothered with a CLA and has worked great. I don't get the hysteria of doing CLA especially for amateur use, and I actually

don't like idea of ever loosening any screws. I figure if shutters sound good and camera winds smooth, just use it. The 50 is a great

lens, but I think I like the 150 even more.

<p>If I didn't have almost the same outfit (plus the 80mm Planar) I would jump at that assemblage of<br>

H'blad stuff. You will love it!</p>

<p>Thanks, everyone. I've never used extension tubes or bellows shade- how useful are they? I know I'll need to get an 80mm at some point also. I've checked individual pieces on KEH and it would be considerably more, so i feel pretty good about this deal if everything checks out.</p>

Tubes are (in my opinion) very useful.<br>As you know, they extend the focussing range, allow to get closer than the lens' focussing helicoid allows.<br>The 16 mm tube is a good companion to the 150 mm lens, shifting the close focus limit from 1.4 m (field of view 40 cm square) to 95 cm (field of view 23 cm square). Seamlessly, i.e. there is an overlap in the ranges the lens will cover without and with the 16 mm tube.<br>The 16 mm tube is quite long, too long perhaps, for the 50 mm lens. An 8 mm tube would be a better match for that. But the 50 cm close focus limit of the 50 mm is, in my opinion, already close enough, even though the lens then still covers a field of view of 36 cm square.<br><br>When using extension you will need to correct for the loss in exposure.<br>The 150 mm lens alone, without tube, loses 0.5 stop when set to it's close focus limit of 1.4 m. Add the 16 mm tube, and the compensation needed ranges from 0.4 stops (lens set to infinity mark) to just a tiny bit over 0.8 stops (lens racked out completely).<br>Should you put the 16 mm tube behind the 50 mm lens, the exposure compensation needed will range from 0.25 to 0.7 stop.<br><br>The bellows shade - any shade - is very important. Using a proper lens hood does a lot for image quality, preventing contrast lowering veiling flare, or worse.<br>The bellows shades are a bit big and clumsy, but will act as a filter holder (the one included appears not to be a Hasselblad brand bellows shade, and i don't recognize which brand it is, but it probably will have a holder for 100 mm/4" square filters).<br>Both lenses come with a rigid hood, and it is good practice to always have them on the lens, unless you are going to use the bellows shade.

<p>New question guys...I'm supposed to check out the camera this weekend, but just found this listing am having second thoughts about the first one now (the guy dropped it $100, so both of these are $1400). This body is 20 years newer, but doesn't have the extra lenses (especially that FLE). So now I'm wonder that both of these are the same price, which one is a better deal? Thanks so much<img title="smile" src="http://thephotoforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br />This Hasselblad 501CM Film Camera Body (Black), comes with the Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8 T*Planar Lens, a waist level finder, prism view finder, and a Hasselblad A12 6x6 120 Film Back. All are near Mint condition!!<br /><br />The 501 CM camera body's mirror, focusing screen and magnifier show no marks or scratches. It all works flawlessly. <br /><br />The 80mm lens has no marks, scratches, fungus, or haze. The focus is smooth and the aperture preview works correctly. The shutter speeds sound to be accurate. In other words near Mint.<br /><br />Included are the Hasselblad Adjustable Neck Strap, original instruction book, and certification papers.<br /><br />This kit was purchased in 2002, and has seen about 40 rolls of film since.<br>

<br>

<img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/classichippie313/has3_zps1f29e249.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /><br>

<img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/classichippie313/has1_zps23163fd7.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /><br>

<img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/classichippie313/has2_zpsdad63789.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></p>

You get a lot more usefull stuff (extra lens, extra back) with the first camera, for the same money as you would pay for the one direclty above?<br>Assuming condition is not an issue with either (these are rather rugged machines, and though every mechanical thing wears and needs some attention now and again, 20 years of good use do not mean the camera is already nearing the end of its usefull life. It's just getting warmed up ;-) ), despite the larger mirror of the 501 CM, it would be a very easy choice for me: the 500 C/M kit.

<p>Thank you. I was really just wondering if a newer body and a 500 vs. 501 was worth giving up the extras of the first one. From what I know, both are in excellent condition. Neither has ever been CLA'd. From what I've read, the FLE lens alone is worth over half the asking price. I guess I could always upgrade the body later if it becomes an issue- I've only ever used a 501cm, so I'll find out how different is feels shooting on the 500c/m.</p>

You'll notice that the mirror in the 500 C/M is a bit too short, causing slight vignetting in the viewfinder (and only there) with the 150 mm attached.<br>Vignetting gets worse with increasing extension (i.e. decreasing focussing distance) and increasing focal length (rather increasing exit pupil to mirror distance, which is why, compared to the 150 mm, you get a little bit more vignetting with the shorter 120 mm lens).<br>While i do like the larger, non-vignetting mirror in the later cameras, i have used cameras with the short mirror for ages (still do) and never found it a big problem.

I still think the first deal is better, the body is basically a freebie at that price with some very nice looking lenses. 20 year

old body that looks that good didn't likely see many miles, worse case is lubricants are a bit gummed up, still think Internet

hysteria over CLA is overblown. Only problem I ran into with my kit (very similar) is a light seal was leaking on one of my

backs. You can replace these yourself if you have a jewelers screwdriver about 25 bucks for seals.

<p><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/classichippie313/hass_zps846e7cab.jpg" alt="" width="984" height="1024" /><br>

I got it! Came with a lot of extras he didn't mention in the ad and is in awesome shape. Thanks to everyone who offered advice and helped make this happen:)</p>

<p>Posted three times...sorry </p>

<p>Posted three times...sorry </p>