RB67 Field test...

<p>Getting an RB67 in tomorrow, I have 14 days to see if everything is OK with it.<br>

I've read some posts on how to test a used "New" camera... it suggests using e-6, because of its tighter exposure posture to see if there are any light leaks... but have no e-6 on hand, and then there is the time delay of sending it off and having it developed... sooo<br>

I have two rolls of TRI x-400 which I have never shot, nor developed... but so what... ;-)<br>

Ah the question: ;-)<br>

would this be better than shooting color c-41 for the test?</p>

<p>Any other thoughts, beside the common comment of that its a 'brick', but then I've been shooting a 46 speed, so it may not be a big deal... having not used my digital in... ah 5-6 years</p>

<p>(BTW- will be using D-76 for developing)<br>

thanks</p>

 

<p>I'd make sure I took a few shots with bright sunlight streaming down on the camera to test for light leaks, then I'd shoot a series of same subject shots bracketing exposures and also a series with the same EV but altering the shutter speed and apertures to see if there are any anomalies there. If all looks ok you've got a lifetime keeper!</p>

<p>E-6 would be for shutter speed and light meter accuracy.<br>

For light leaks, you want fast film. Tri-X is dandy for that. <br>

I'll admit that light leaks are more obvious on C-41. If the light leak is through the base of the film (not that likely on 120), it's red, if to the emulsion side, probably white. <br>

Steven's exposure series is a good idea.<br>

Also, be sure to do focus tests with the lens wide open. Although Tri-X may be a little grainy for accurate results there. A roll of TMX 100 would be good for the focus test, if you can get it locally or fast.</p>

 

<p>Do check the integrity of the seals too....I mean at least visually. Stephen took the words out of my mouth about bracketing. This will give you solid reference point and also as to "correct" exposure...and you will know how to tweak the exposure even if the meter indicates "X" setting.<br />Enjoy your new rig.</p>

<p>Les</p>

 

<p>If it's an RB 67, it's probably in need of new seals on the body/RB adapter surfaces, on the surface between the RB adapter and the back, as well as the hinge and clasp surfaces on the shell surrounding the back. All easy DIY stuff. Resources online for the how-to part.</p>

<p>thanks guys for the clarity..<br>

Makes sense that the light leaks would be more visible with the c-41, so I'll probably just go ahead and shoot c-41 then.. like the bracketing idea </p>

<p>C-41 is very forgiving.. so in the bracketing, how many stops do you suggest? 2 or 3?</p>

<p>I'll check the seals. Replaced them before in my CMC Nikons, so no big deal, I think I may still have some buried.. but will have to see what the seal sizes are. </p>

<p>I think + and - 2 stops should be fine.</p>

If it's your first RB67, get a manual and study it carefully - the beast has a dazzling array of interlocks designed to prevent you from doing anything stupid, which often have the effect of making it rage-inducingly hard to get it to do anything at all - including get the film backs on and off.

<p>Yep.. been noticing that.. got the manual, and there is a good how show, on utube..</p>