What Oly film body should I get?

<p>I'm a life long Nikon shooter and have many manual focus camera's. Since these old dinosaurs are so cheap I'd like to add an Olympus to my collection, a camera I'll use and not collect. So far I've added a Canon T90 and F1N, a Minolta X700 and a Sears KS Auto which is a Ricoh/Pentax K mount body. I also picked up a standard 50mm lens for each. I'm thinking about getting a OM series body but at this point I need some help in choosing a body. Which Oly would you recommend? I prefer shooting in Aperture preferred mode if that helps. Budget would be in the $100 - $150 range.</p>

<p>Avoid the OM2SP as when the electronics die you're stuffed. I love my OM2N, has both match needle manual and aperture priority auto, plus it's repairable. OTOH, my first OM4 arrived in the mail today (picked up for US$100) and it's unbelievably good. Just make sure if you get an OM4 it's not one of the early battery sucking ones. When I say unbelievably good, I mean multi-spot metering plus highlight/shadow buttons, off-the-film TTL flash and it's built solid.<br>

Avoid the double digit bodies - OM10/20/30/40 or OMF/OMG/OMPC, they are the consumer bodies and aren't built as well.</p>

<p>OM-2N would be my preference - rock solid performer.<br>

...Wayne</p>

<p> </p>

<p>See my note on your other post...another + for the OM-2n.</p>

<p>If you need spot metering an OM2N might not be the thing, so go for an OM4, KEH usually has them in BGN for around $100. If you don't need spot metering the OM2N is bloody hard to beat</p>

<p>The OM-2n is the "Classic" auto OM - match needle metering in manual, but great OTF auto metering that'll meter by starlight if you need it to. Phenomenal VF and full system support. The OM-4 has was is arguably the best metering system of any MF SLR - it'll do standard center-weighted auto, but if you're prepared to spend a little time thinking through your scene, the multi-spot system is without compare, IMO. If you're going to get an OM-4, make sure you get a later OM-4 or an OM-4T - these have upgraded electronics that won't chew through your batteries. If you're buying in person, you can check by switching on the battery check. If it self-cancels after ~30 sec, it's good. If it doesn't cancel, avoid it unless you hold stock in Duracell.</p>

 

<p>OM-2n</p>

<p>Chris, I don't understand how you can recommend the OM4 over the OM2SP... it's got identical problems with the circuit for double the price. The OM4 also doesn't *feel* like an OM to me... too many things just aren't right... the film advance is too stiff, the film-speed dial (borrowed from Nikon) is fragile and unergonomic, and the metering system while very flexible is just too much, and often difficult to read out and the position of the metering buttons around the shutter release makes it one of the most difficult OM's to use "blind" with your face glued to the viewfinder. I've owned two that died in different ways and will never recommend it again. I'd get the 2SP over the 4 any day, especially since it does the one thing that the OM4 excels at: fantastic flash metering with an OM flash unit, the T32 with the bounce tilt is great. <br /><br />At this point even those last few OM's built are very very old and their circuitry is failing. Stick with the OM1 or OM2N.</p>

<p>Patrick, it is my understanding circuits may still be available for the OM4 but not the OM2SP</p>

<p>I used OM cameras for 30 years, starting in 1978. I think the OM1 is a better camera than any of the OM2/n/sp cameras. Manual exposure, of course. I never used the OM4.</p>

<p>I recommend the Olympus OM-3 camera if you can find it.<strong> Its the rarest OM SLR film camera there is </strong>after the sister Olympus OM-3Ti. Here is a photo of my Olympus OM-3 camera with the rare OM Zuiko 100/2 ED portrait lens. Its spot meter system (shadow/highlight buttons) is the highlight of this camera (no pun intended lol) :D. It is 100% mechanical and will work with or without batteries...a rare feature in these days of digital.<br>

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus_OM-3">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus_OM-3</a><br>

<a href="http://www.arransalerno.com/blog/olympus-om3/">http://www.arransalerno.com/blog/olympus-om3/</a></p><div></div>

<p>Oops. I should have said: "OM-2n, BUT"<br>

The "but" is that if you are left-eyed, the annoyingly sharp film wind lever will poke your right eye every time you use the camera. It's the only design detail on the camera that's less than great, and forces me to use a kind of "looking sideways" stance.<br>

I still recommend the OM-2n, but find it's much more pleasant to use with the add on motor drive, which provides a more secure grip, and protects your eyeball.<br>

I get that the drive partly defeats the smallness and lightness and quietness of the camera, but the combination is still pretty small compared to the other cameras of its time, and, for me, much easier to use. <br>

If you're lucky enough to be right-eye-dominant, then never mind.</p>

<p>I can also recommend the OM-3. It's a wonderful little camera. Solid built and really back to the basics, with the oppotunity to take advantage of a sophisticated lightmeter.<br>

This is my OM-3 that I managed to get my hands on a few years ago.<br>

<img src="http://jacobvonpost.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/20101226_olympus_om3_025_webb.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="731" /><br>

http://jacobvonpost.wordpress.com/2010/12/26/olympus-om-3/<br>

//Jacob vP</p>

<p>The most bulletproof answer is the OM 1. I suspect that it will remain generally reparable in 50 years, if there are any real camera repairmen around then. I like my OM4 and My 2SP. When the circuts pack it in, they will become displays. But the lenses, many of mine are sooooo good.</p>

<p>I am digital shooter and recently got OM4 from keh.com. It is delight to use this camera with such controls like Spot meter/multiple spot metring option.<br>

But this is expensive will be 200 USD and above(body only). It is upto you how much you want to spend if you can and want more better looking then go for OM4 Ti.</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Sunil</p>