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Softbox for SB800 and SB600


brian_hubbs

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Oh, and back to an earlier part of the thread: don't forget a sandbag. My long-suffering wife helped me make half a dozen of them. We used half-gallon zip-lock bags (trippled), filled with sand. Two each of these were stitched into heavy black twill fabric, and some two-inch straps of nylong webbbing were sewn into loops and handles. These loop nicely over stands, and the double-bag shape then drapes over a leg of the stand. Cost: about $3 in materials each... and we'd gladly have just ponied up and purchased pre-fab ones, but they cost rather a lot, considering. And, making them ourselves, we made several sizes, well suited to each of several stand configurations.<div>00RF7V-81433584.jpg.fd8860cc74bc40de2f4385b269c3439b.jpg</div>
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I just went through this same debate and settled on a softbox from Alzo Digital that is basically identical to the Lastolite EzBox Speedlight 15". At first I was nervous about the quality difference since the price is ~$100 U.S. different, but after looking around in some of the flickr groups I decided to get the Alzo Softbox. When it came I was relieved that it was very nicely made of good materials.

 

Here is a link to the speedlight style softbox from Alzo:

http://alzodigital.com/online_store/alzo_porta_flash_soft_box.htm

 

I ended up getting a kit from this page:

 

http://alzodigital.com/online_store/alzo_porta_flash_softbox_studio_kit.htm

 

Hope this helps,

 

Justin

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Hi David--

<br><br>

Great question. There are definitely circumstances where having the strobe buried in or behind that softbox means that its infrared sensor may have trouble seeing the triggering pulse from the camera position. That can mean that a system like Nikon's CLS and iTTL simply isn't going to behave. And THAT means that you either need to cable up, or go wireless.

<br><br>

With the SB-800, you've got a proper PC connector, so you can use Pocket Wizards or any number of competing radio-based widgets in ranges of cost and quality. For the simple table-top shot that you saw above, the pop-up flash on a D200, in commander mode, was perfectly capable of triggering the SB-800. The room's walls were lively enough to toss that triggering pulse around. That would probably NOT work so well outdoors. For that sort of thing, I pull out the PWs.

<br><br>

It's important to remember that the little bit one might save by going with an SB-600 can cost you the ability to easily use Skyports, Cybersyncs, PWs, and even the cheapies from China. Because, no PC port... and that means buying a hot-shoe adapter... and that means making a less robust physical mount to a rig like those shown above.

<br><br>

Using Nikon's CLS, commanded from the camera position, I've had very good luck in all but the worst circumstances. But there is some extra lag time, and the possibility of specular reflections from the pop-up strobe. I've certrainly been drifting more and more towards PWs, manual power settings, and a flash meter (I've come to really like the <a href="laurphoto.com/prdr/sekonic_l358" target="_blank"><b>Sekonic L358</b></a>).

<br><br>

There is one nice, mitigating factor, though: I suspect that a lot of people forget that they can swivel the heads on their SB-600/800 speedlights. This has the effect of pointing the small circular infrared sensor (found on the right-hand side of the units) a different direction. By thusly changing its line-of-sight orientation, you can greatly improve the triggering sensitivity.<div>00RFQo-81573584.jpg.bf5b573666ed133830c9f5e660ee4546.jpg</div>

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I too am impressed by Matt's explanation of the Ezybox. Just awesome. The Ezybox, Morris, and Alzo also seem really useful. Maybe even the Westcott Mini Apollo. They just seem like a better investment for me right now and maybe even a little more versatile.
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Everyone knows how harsh a naked strobe can look. I sense that many people <i>over-estimate</i> just how softening a small softbox can really be, at much of a distance from the subject. It it will help to put some of that in perspective, here are four examples. Each one is lit entirely by a single Nikon SB-800 speedlight, modified by the 30cm (24-inch) Ezybox, on a stand at camera left, looking down on the subject at about 40 degrees. I moved the stand/softbox back by two feet for each shot (and raised it to keep roughly the same angle, shadow-wise), and compensated just a bit for the difference in exposure as the light was farther away.

<br><br>

The thing to note, here, is the clarity and abruptness of the shadow transition and depth as the softbox moves only two feet farther from the subject.<div>00RFWO-81613584.jpg.f8e396d7152759fb5e23409275cb659d.jpg</div>

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Really nice set of info about the EZBox and softboxes in general, Matt. I would like to add, to your last set of examples about subject to softbox distance, that the subject you used (part of hat and lariat), is small in comparison to a half length of a person, or full lengths of people, for instance. One could say that the softness isn't too bad at 8 feet, in your examples, but that's because the subject itself isn't all that big. For group shots, for instance, the results of a small softbox won't look all that much different from a bare flash. A little, yes, but not much. The supposed 'ideal' is for the light to subject distance to be the same as the size of the light (for maximum soft, creamy light).
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Louis--I don't know if it 'should' be the diagonal measurement, but I would think that would probably be the one to use, and that it wouldn't make much difference if you used the longest side measurement instead. It is just a guide, and primarily useful for judging how big a modifier you would want. In reality, physical limitation and working comfort tend to cut into the ideal. For instance, for a group shot where you are about 10 feet from your subjects, there is no way you can put up a 10 foot umbrella or softbox. This is why, if you had a conveniently placed white wall next to your group, or behind you, you can get really nice softness of light by bouncing your flash off the wall. This is why bouncing one's flash, utilizing the available surfaces, gives soft light.
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I have a question pertaining to the subject of using a softbox with the Nikon SB800 and the CLS (system). Yesterday I went to my favorite camera store and one of the salesmen suggested adding a softbox with my Nikon lighting system. I bought the 28" Apollo. Reading all you guys had to say and looking at the pics, I think I may have a problem..The softbox I bought zips around the whole flash and light pole. With the whole flash inside, how would that flash then trigger the other two SB600s?
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Matt, thank you for the logical, comprehensive description of the Ezybox. After performing some additional research, I have decided to pursue the Ezybox setup for both studio and portable kit. It is this type of experiential sharing which you have done so well, that enhances the hobby/profession for all. Cheers.
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  • 2 months later...

<p>Great topic! I'm impressed by explanations on the use of speedlights with softboxs.</p>

Dears, I have some doubts about the accessories that I need to buy, then I will appreciate any help you resolve it.

I want to buy <strong>Photoflex</strong> <!-- needs styling --><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=42119&is=REG">LiteDome Q39 Softbox</a>, and I'll need this <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=42441&is=REG">speed ring</a> and this <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=197439&is=REG">shoe mount conector </a>. Now the question: Which tilt head (from bhphoto) is compatible with that kit?

All the best,

Pablo Albino

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<p>Great topic! I'm impressed by explanations on the use of speedlights with softboxs.</p>

Dears, I have some doubts about the accessories that I need to buy, then I will appreciate any help you resolve it.

I want to buy <strong>Photoflex</strong> <!-- needs styling --><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=42119&is=REG">LiteDome Q39 Softbox</a>, and I'll need this <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=42441&is=REG">speed ring</a> and this <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=197439&is=REG">shoe mount conector </a>. Now the question: Which tilt head (from bhphoto) is compatible with that kit?

All the best,

Pablo Albino

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
<p>Matt.....thanks so much for the detailed information. After some previous research and after digesting this information I purchased the 30" Lastolite Ezybox which additionally offers an optional grid and a $20.00 rebate through January. The new shoe mount will now also accommodate the Nikon SB900. I could not be more pleased with the product and results. Thanks again Matt for the time you put into these posts..</p>
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