Restoration of Lettering

<p>I have several old cameras I'm tidying-up, and in a couple of cases the black lettering on the camera bodies has worn away, leaving only the stamped impression. Prakticas, particularly, seem to have this problem since the model identification lettering is closely adjacent to the shutter release. I attach a picture of a Kiev with the condition.</p>

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Does anyone have any suggestions for restoring the lettering? Obviously, in the manufacturing process the indentation must be filled with enamel and the suplus paint polished away after drying, but I'm not to sure about tackling this for fear of spoiling the surrounding surface. I've tried black nail enamel, and removing the surplus with nail polish remover when dry, but the remover tends to bleed into the letters, spoiling the edge.

 

Any great ideas out there?

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<p>There are paint sticks (pen like devices) that 'write' with various types of ink/paint. You could fill with that and wipe the excess away. I do this on old ham gear and other electronic panels.<br>

<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#paint-pens/=5nesgz">http://www.mcmaster.com/#paint-pens/=5nesgz</a> for example.<br>

Jim</p>

<p>I have something similiar made by Markal. Same Idea, just another brand. They are available thru Micro-Tools I believe. I bought mine at the local Fastenal store. Get the extra fine for something like the Kiev pictured..</p>

<p>I have used metal model enamel paint. You have to be committed to cleaning up the area around the lettering, but it sure looks nice.</p>

<p>I have used the paint sticks to fill in the lettering on lens markings. I am not so sure how they would work for camera body lettering. On the body you have a larger area with a less indented surface. </p>

<p>Well you could always give it a try. The paint sticks are only $2 at micro-tools. I got the whole set.</p><div></div>

<p>I have done this using black model airplane enamel; after the enamel dries, wipe with a cloth only slightly damp with enamel thinner to clean the chrome... it may take several wipes to get it done, leaving some time to dry in between so you don't pull the paint back out of the lettering.</p>

<p>one small suggestion the smaller the brush the better, like an artist brush double zero or triple zero:</p>

<p>Back in the stone age, the 1970's, I'd buy a 'china marker' of the appropriate color at a local stationary store. Then I'd wet the tip, just a bit, with Zippo lighter fluid and rub the resultant softened color into the engraving. After the lighter fluid evaporated I'd clean off the excess with a paper towel. Seemed to work fine for the engraving on lenses but haven't much tried it on larger body surfaces.</p>

<p>With whatever paint you flow <strong>liberally</strong> in to the indented surface. Allow it to dry.</p>

<p>Using a sheet of lens tissue that's been tightly wrapped around a Popsicle stick, put a drop of MEK or Thinner on the tissue and gently rub the nameplate area as if you were sanding it. <strong>The key</strong> is to have materials that won't enter the indented area. (No fir, bristles or a pushing finger)</p>

<p>What Guz suggests sounds like what I would suggest. Wipe in carefully in towards the groove should do it. </p>

 

<p>There is a product called the Lacquer-Stik that works like a crayon, but with a type of gel/paint mixture. They come in all sorts of colors and are very easy to use. You smear the crayon all over the lettering to fill the indentations then wipe off the excess (it wipes off easily before it sets). Let it set for a while and the lettering looks good. I was skeptical when I first used this, but the color has held up well on my Contax (and other) cameras for about a year now.<br /> Micro-tools and others sell this: <a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=L51123">http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=L51123</a><br /> Here is the frame counter/shutter speed from my contax: it had zero color in the numbers when I got the camera- so all the paint is from the stick, not perfect, but pretty good:<br /> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/mstott/Contax%20IIIa%20cd/IMG_0640.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Marc B. makes a good point about <strong>indenting</strong> vs. <strong>engraving</strong>.<br>

(Matthew's nice picture of a Contax IIIa above is an example of engraving)</p>

<p>The rub stick <strong>doesn't</strong> work well for 'soft edged' indented surfaces like Rick's example camera.<br /> Hence, "liberally flow" the paint...</p>

<p>What about when the lettering is white on black? I'm aware that the model paint comes in white, although I find that it looks duller than original imprinted white when applied and is harder than black paint to wipe off cleanly. Do some of these other products come in white?</p>

 

<p>Thanks to you all...obviously there's some interest in this issue. I'll start experimenting....</p>

<p>Yes, some excellent tips here. That's a particularly impressive job on the Contax shutter-speed numbers.</p>