What would you bring?

<p>Seems there's not much happening here these days... I suppose I'm a part of the problem, due to my inactivity... so, maybe this will spark a little discussion:</p>

<p>I'm looking at a 'once-in-a-lifetime' type trip to Nepal this year. I'll have to carry everything I bring on my back, though, for about 3 weeks. I have a really bad habit of over-packing. Seems my travels wouldn't be complete without 200lbs of clothes, gear, appurtenance, etc. <br>

Now, I know we all have different styles, and different collections of gear, but... </p>

<p>Given the chance of a once-in-a-lifetime trip where you will need to carry all that you bring on your back for about 3 weeks (including clothes, etc.), what would you bring? What camera(s), lenses, tripods, appurtenance? And why; what's the rational?</p>

<p>I'd start with my list, but at the moment it includes some 3-4 cameras, 8 lenses, film, tripod, filters... uh... maybe I need to rethink this a little...</p>

<p>(and a side note: I don't always have access to internet, so I'll be checking in as often as I can, but maybe not everyday.)</p>

<p>Sean</p>

<p>3-4 cameras sounds like way too much. I'd be inclined to take my usual backpacking outfit: K20d, 16-50, batteries to last, plus a pocket BW camera (Yashica) and film.</p>

<p>I'm with Bob, maybe 1 digital, 1 film, 2 lenses (wide to mid tele), small tripod, film, filters, and some extra batteries.</p>

<p>This is from the film days but you might want to find a copy of "The Backpacker's Photography Handbook" by Charles Campbell. It might be of less help for equipment and more for the other stuff to bring. </p>

<p>When I travel I usually have a digital SLR and light-weight film body. My film body of choice is a Super Program. When I was traveling light I would bring a 20mm f4 M, 50mm f1.7 A, 80-200 f4.7-5.6 A and a 100mm f4 A, + 1.4X TC. All use 49mm filters all are very light. Unless you are set on doing wildlife photography I would keep the lenses under 200mm in length.</p>

<p>K-x (2), DA 21mm, FA 31mm, FA 77mm, DA 55-300mm, mini-tripod, 49mm CP, (12) 16G cards, batteries, zip-loc bags. </p>

<p>Minimalist: Olympus XA, lots of Portra 400NC film, and spare batteries. Why? It gets the job done, fast lens, and fits in your pocket. Or the fixed-lens Olympus Stylus Epic (35/2.8), which is even smaller, and also really sharp.<br>

Practical: Olympus Infiinity Stylus Zoom 35-70 point and shoot. Unlike the ones with the ridiculous zoom ranges, it's respectably sharp, pocketable, and well-behaved. Gotta haul along several batteries. I could bring that on a trip like that and have <strong>no</strong> regrets! (Might bring some Portra 800 to go with the 400NC with the slowish lens.)<br>

Starting to go too far: screwmount Leica (IIIa or later), Summar 50/2, Canon 35/1.8, VC 28/35 mini-finder, and a really small light meter. Only extra might be a Canon 100/3.5 lens with finder. Could substitute the black/chrome Canon 50/1.8 for the Summar, a few grams heaver, larger, but sharper wide open. Or strip some weight by switching to a 50/3.5 Elmar, and rely on the 35/1.8 for low light. This is my favorite rig for trips to New York City.<br>

Pentax: Well, that has to be the KX. But it weighs three ounces more than a Leica IIIa. But the Pentax-A 50/2 lens weighs one ounce less than either of the LTM 50mm lenses. Then add a 35/2, and maybe 100/2.8. One could shave an ounce with the SuperProgram, but the finder isn't nearly as nice, and it's totally battery dependent.<br>

Digital: Maybe one of the Sony pocket digitals with finder, like the DSC-W100. They are respectable in bright light, fairly useless in the dark. But would need a supply of AA batteries, although I'm sure they can be bought even in Nepal...</p>

 

<p>Sean, sorry for not replying to your e-mails. I suck! But I did appreciate them. [insert blushing emoticon here]</p>

<p>Check the comments on your GCT article on EtL, somebody wants to get in contact with you.</p>

<p>Regarding your current question, and trying to remember the gear you own, I would take a DSLR, DA* 16-50 (did you get it fixed yet?) and DA* 50-135 (hmmm...maybe you don't own this one, and I wouldn't suggest you take your Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 because it's too damn big). Add a quality P&S, like a Canon G10 or G11, Panasonic LX3, etc.</p>

<p>Now, if it were *me*, with the equipment *I* own, I'd take my Canon S90 as backup, and for my main camera my K10D (although I might buy a K-7 just for the trip), Tamron 17-35mm f/2.8-4, 31 Ltd, FA 50mm f/1.4, 77 Ltd and Sigma APO 70-300mm f/4-5.6.</p>

<p>I envy you, man!</p>

<blockquote>

<p>This is from the film days but you might want to find a copy of "The Backpacker's Photography Handbook" by Charles Campbell. It might be of less help for equipment and more for the other stuff to bring.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Doug, have you been reading my post ;-)...yeah, that is IMO the most important book anyone can own that is about getting away from the car and out of the studio to shoot. And +1 on the Super Program/Program Plus for a film body. Insanely light, and durable. However, it is dependent on batteries. So if only taking film, I'd take it and something else like an MX or KX.</p>

<p>2 cameras tops (plus maybe a digital compact).</p>

<p>just cover the range with what you normally use.</p>

<p>I'd definitely take a decent tele lens. A decent normal lens and a decent wide angle. I'd also take the best tripod you can afford. That obviously screams carbon. Along with that some sort of Ultrapod type device. A compact strobe unit or two (assuming you use strobes).Not sure what your focus will be but I find a good tele equally as important as a good wide angle in the mountains. Something in the 100mm+ range, if not 200-300mm.</p>

<p>If shooting film, Fuji Provia 100F, and Provia 400X. For black and white, Neopan 100 and 400. With those four films you have 100-1600 covered. I like Neopan 100 at EI 320. or EI 80. I also really like Neopan 400 at EI 1600. Looks amazing to me.You can push Provia 100F to 400 with very good results. And 400X can go to 800 or 1600.</p>

<p>I can't help you with C-41, as I avoid it like the plague. I like slides because WYSIWYG, as well as the contrast and colors. I like B&W because you can push it all over the place, and it looks good if you know how to process it.</p>

<p>With the recent TSA and world issues with flying, I really don't recommend film. Actually, after the christmas attacks I looked at my film gear and said, "you guys are finished for air travel, but I'll use you as often as possible when we travel by car." I feel like hand checks of film are going to go bye bye. And as it is, as late as March 2009, I had to argue with TSA to not put my film through the X-Ray. they insist only "high speed" film is damaged, and attempt to pursuade you to just put it through. This is despite TSA guidelines that say if a hand check is requested it must be performed.</p>

<p>Plus, the crackdowns on carry on items means taking as little as possible is absolutely necessary.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've wrestled with this same question for some cycling trips and shorter backpacking tripsl but nothing three weeks long. I have about twenty lenses, the limiteds, the two DA* zooms being my top glass. A couple of K20s and a k100d, plus some film gear. A trip like this inevitably means compromises. Also are you traveling with photographers or people you're going to annoy the heck out of taking frequent photos? </p>

<p>What has worked out well for me has been a k20d, extra battery, DA18-250, DA10-17 fisheye, and either my DA 35mm macro limited or my DFA 50mm macro limited. There are some IQ compromises with the 18-250 but it is surprisingly good. I decided I rarely print over 11x14; it and the k20 are excellent at this resolution and if your traveling with non-photographers you're set for most anything with this lens; it also minimized dust on the sensor problems from frequent lens changes. The fisheye is just unique and let's you bring back imnages you can't therewise get; at it's long end it has little distortion (comparatively). The prime has things covered for macro, low light and when you want extra quality; also works for stitching the uber special lansdscapes. I took a Joby Gorilla pod (small flexible tripod); I like this one a lot better then the ultrapod. Much as I wanted to take a regular tripod I decided a better use of weight, space was an extra lens. </p>

<p>I also have a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8which I'm very fond of. It's light and a great travel companion. I thought seriously about taking it and my Sigma 70-300 with my DA21 and DFA50, but ultimately decided the selection above would be better and with it was able to shoot anything I needed to.</p>

<p>Lastly a good point and shoot compact comes along. That way I have a backup camera and it fits in my pocket for times when the big camera is too much. Mine is also water proof to 30' so it goes swimming, kayaking and let's me shoot worry free in the rain.</p>

<p>Sean,<br>

Sounds like it'll be a fantastic trip. I'm feeling nostalgic reading this thread as a couple of my old, beloved and still used film cameras are called out: Olympus XA and the SuperProgram. but I wouldn't deal with the bulk and low-shot capacity of film.</p>

<p>For a trip like this, I'd bring a K-x, DA 21mm Ltd, DA 40mm, M 135 f.3.5 (smallest 135mm I know with very decent optics), and maybe a 1.5X TC just in case. Definately an Ultrapod II. Maybe one polarizing filter big enough to cover all the lenses--same goes with ND2 and graduated ND filters--I assume it is very bright up there. Lenspen or small blower. 2-3 extra batteries. And that's it. You'll need room in the pack for stuff like toilet paper and sunblock I assume.</p>

<p>Not to hijack your thread Sean, but it is a treat to hear wise words (or any words for that matter) from the much-missed Justin. Howdy.</p>

<p>ME</p>

<p>Yeah! Indeed great to see you back, Justin! And bringing up good points regarding film and airports. </p>

<p>I am conservative when traveling via airports, and especially to places where too much could too easily go wrong. You need to guard your gear like a hawk. I would take some very decent gear, easy to carry, but not my best or hardest to replace. Also remembering that Pentax specialty of compact design for exceptional portability. </p>

<p>I'd get a K-x, along with my K100DS as backup. Not knowing what kind of electrical power may be available for battery charging, or when, I'd include a couple of extra sets of AA lithiums. The DA 21mm LTD would be my most expensive lens, in conjunction with either the very good kit lens or my very compact "F"35-70mm f/3.5-4.5, and the DA 55-300mm. </p>

<p>ME: <em>"Lenspen or small blower."</em> Yes, a blower is essential!</p>

<p>MK: <em> "I would take some very decent gear ...but not my best or hardest to replace."</em> Difficulty of replacement might be a consideration but on a "trip of a lifetime" like this, I'd go for broke and take my best, compromising only for portability and versatility.</p>

 

<p>Thanks ME and MK.</p>

<p>Only thing i might disagree with posted so far is the need for grad ND filters. Again I am assuming you know how to use the digital version of a grad ND when making this statement (or have the desire to figure it out), but if traveling light and fast with digital, I recommend dispensing with the GND filters and holders.I personally still use them on occassion, and have become reaquinted with them via film, but for digital I don't see a big need for them.</p>

<p>The reason is, at least in my opinion, the GND is well reproduced via the cameras bracket feature or simply by sliding the control dial a few stops in either direction between exposures.</p>

<p>However, I do realize this limits you to fairly static scenes. if you will be shooting dynamic scenes then this doesn't necessarily work, although it works better than one might assume before having used it. On the upside, you get precise control over the filter position in post processing, and can even edit it's location down to invididual pixels, try that by sliding a filter in a cokin holder...</p>

<p>That said, most better images are taken in low light anyway, so you'll have blur even with a glass GND in moving subjects, as you shoot closer to 1 second with your exposures. Just as long as the blur doesn't overlap your two images you will be fine. Clouds for instance shouldn't ever overlap the high and low exposure. Nor should things like imediate foreground traffic or motion.</p>

<p>A polarizer is essential, it can't be fully duplicated in photoshop and serves many purposes, including a makeshift ND filter (knocking off about 1-1.5 stops of light) and also ND2 or ND4 filter could be useful. Up high in the mountains, blue light is an issue. while I don't recommend carrying warming filters on digital (just adjust the white balance on digital) even on digital eliminating blue light before it gets to the sensor is a good thing. The Hoya Haze-1 filter has been shown to be most effective at reducing blue light at altitude, close behind is a polarizer (not as good) and a Tiffen 812 filter. I never liked the Tiffen 812 unless shooting people, I recommend getting a bunch of Haze-1 to cover your lenses during the day.</p>

<p>Blower is a must, so is some sort of lens cleaner (i like microfiber clothes) and a lens brush. If it's dusty I also take a camel hair paint brush to brush the dust off the surface of my gear. Keep all this stuff in zip locks, you don't want your lens brush getting the dust/grit from the paint brush on it. Also, take enough 1-2 gallon ziplocks or sil-nylon stuff sacks with roll top closures to seal all your gear in the event of rain or sandstorms. I always have a 2 gallon bag or sil-nylon sack to toss my camera and lenses in if the weather just gets too nasty to keep them safe in the camera cases alone.</p>

<p>If you have the money 3 nikon SB30s would make for a great portable travel strobe setup. Simply attach peanut triggers to them all and you have a nice portable 2 strobe studio (with the 3rd controlling the remotes). All 3 take up less space than a single regular flash, weight about half as much, and will throw enough light to make things happen you couldn't do otherwise. Fill lighting your forgrounds even on landscapes makes your images appear significantly sharper. Cover em all with some form of CTO gel for warm color balance, and off you go. The SB30 has enough control to provide fill lighting.</p>

<p>Very interesting and informative responses! Thank you all!</p>

<p>Doug: I'll check out that book; Thanks! I'm sure I'll be in touch with you when I go home before the trip. </p>

<p>It's interesting to see what each person would take, especially the references to the film. I've been teetering on the film question. I do love the look of Velvia! Is the weight of the extra gear (film body or 2, maybe a dedicated lens or 2, the film itself) and the trouble worth it? Maybe as a back-up? (I was considering my ME Super and/or my MZ-S and a couple of small fast primes.)<br>

For the record, I wasn't actually thinking I'd bring all of that gear - it's more of a starting point from which to shave things down, and included DSLRs and film bodies, and high quality zooms and primes for low light. I don't believe in protecting my best gear in situations like this. Why buy it if you're not going to use it? </p>

<p>Miz: Yeah, I got the DA*16-50 back just yesterday, but my 2nd DA* 16-50 in now in the shop, along with my K20D... If I haven't already, I'll tell you about it later...</p>

<p>I hadn't considered a good P&S... I'll have to throw that into the mix as I sort out my gear. I'll most likely be taking my Sigma 70-200mm, though. I don't intend to pick up the DA* 50-135 any time soon. </p>

<p>John Shriver detailed some of the gear by the ounce... While I guess ounces can add up, does a couple of ounces really make that much difference?</p>

<p>The trip is not until this fall, so I've got lots of time to sort out the details. I am just curious how others more experienced than I would approach this. </p>

<p>Again, thank you to you all!</p>

<p>Sean</p>

<p>Well, One thing I have learned is to take as little equipment as possible. I would take my G9, K20D with grip so I will have plenty of battery power and of course, my 18-250 Tamron and that be it. If it rains, then I will take a my chances in toasting the lens. I would not take an SDM lens for the fear it will die. The clothes is the tricky part. That could get heavy...especially if my wife comes along...Nope, she stays home.</p>

<p>Here's a link to a very interesting article about using a gf-1, in Nepal:<br>

http://craigmod.com/journal/gf1-fieldtest/. I'd consider something like this, with a film backup.</p>

<p>Unless the ergonomics of the battery grips improves your experience so much, I would leave the grips at home. In my experience it really doesn't, but obviously this is a personal feel thing.</p>

<p>Exceptions would be winter, where loading 8AA lithiums would mean days of shots below freezing, and a little bigger camera to use with gloves. However, if it is that cold you should have mittens with thin liner gloves, and cords that attach to your arms. Pull mitten off when you need to use the camera, put it back on as soon as you are done.</p>

<p>For the most part though, I don't understand why people take Pentax incredibly compact SLR/DSLR and Canikonify them with big lenses and battery grips. Pentax strongest point is often touted as it's biggest weakness. Compact bodies, with not so fast compact lenses. However, for backpacking, trekking, and travel these are insanely strong points!</p>

<p>It really doesn't take that long to switch batteries, and the size and weight of the grip is a few power bars (or your granola bar of choice), or a water filter, or a strobe, or a lens.</p>

<p>Sean, people are weird about shaving weight. They buy $30 razor thin sil-nylon stuff sacks when a $10 one will do and the net savings is just a few grams.</p>

<p>Cut the big weight off first. Downsizing a 7lb pack to a 5lb is a major savings, going with a $70 titanium pot, when a $20 aluminum one is a half ounce more doesn't make a ton of sense to me. Start with pounds, then ounces, then if you can't cut anymore weight, start knocking off grams in the most cost effective way possible.</p>

<p>If you are truly carrying the bulk of your gear, day after day, whether trekking around towns or cities or deep in the mountains, weight always matters. 10lbs feels a lot better than 15, and 15 feels a lot better than 25lb.</p>

<p>k20D<br>

DA 40mm 2.8<br>

DA 70mm 2.4<br>

Polariser<br>

Spare battery, charger and cards<br>

Light tripod if necessary.</p>

<p>I went in 2004 and brought a Canon Elan 7, 17-40/4L, 70-200/4L, 50/1.8 and a Hexar AF (with 35/2.0). 67 & 77mm polarizers and warming filters (never used the warming filters). Gitzo 1228 tripod with Arca Swiss ballhead. 70 rolls of film (Velvia, Provia 100 & 400). Lens usage was roughly as follows:</p>

<ul>

<li>17-40: 45%</li>

<li>Hexar AF: 35%</li>

<li>70-200: 18%</li>

<li>50/1.8: 2%</li>

</ul>

<p>I brought my tripod to Nepal and never used it. Prior to this trip I don't think I ever took a serious photo without a tripod! I didn't want to slow up my group and didn't feel like carrying it. I got real good at finding things to steady my camera with instead. While trekking I used two trekking poles like two legs of a tripod to steady my hands/gear and this worked great. In town there's always a wall, bench, pole, garbage container or something to use if need be. I did this with no image stabilization and my two favourite photos are at f/4 and 1/4 sec (EF17-40/f4L) and f/2 & 1/8 sec (Hexar AF with 35/2.0) the former with the body pressed against a pole, the other strictly handheld (love leaf shutters!).</p>

<p>I decided I loved the Hexar (small/light) and didn't care for the bulk of the Canon system. That's why I've recently switched to Pentax. Now that I primarily shoot Pentax I'd take:</p>

<ul>

<li>Whatever DSLR I'm familiar with (K7 for me)</li>

<li>DA 15, 21, 40, 70. Instead of the 21 & 40 I could be persuaded to bring the FA31 or else DA35 macro. 2 focal lengths vs. fast aperture vs. macro = tough choice!</li>

<li>I'd be tempted to throw in the DA 55-300 but that would be the first thing to leave behind if the pack was a bit heavy. If this came along I'd also bring 58mm polarizer and Canon 500D close up lens for macros.</li>

<li>49mm polarizer</li>

<li>about 2GB/day worth of SD cards (probably need 1/2 that, but they're small and relatively cheap compared to the 70 rolls of film I brought last time)</li>

<li>spare battery and charger</li>

<li>Lens Pen and microfibre cleaning cloth</li>

</ul>

<p>A pocketable backup would be nice. I'd bring along my Ricoh GX100 if possible. Unfortunately that requires a separate charger too...</p>

<p>Have a great time. I'll never forget my trip there.<br>

Bruce</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I decided I loved the Hexar (small/light) and didn't care for the bulk of the Canon system. That's why I've recently switched to Pentax. Now that I primarily shoot Pentax I'd take:</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Great post!!!</p>

<p>You my friend are a voice of reason...you have no idea how long the masses have been calling for Pentax to become Canon (but keep Pentax pricing/value).</p>

<p>When the K-7 came out people called it too small, a gimmick. Same thing with the DA 21mm, the 40mm (although I do prefer the 43 because it is more usable and still quite small). And don't let anyone get started on the 60-250mm f/4 or the 15mm f/4. There will be riots.</p>

<p>This trip, or any trip where you are carrying your own gear, for days, weeks, months, is where the Pentax system is simply superior to anything else made (ok, I'm sure Leica or some film range finder is a nice option, lets be reasonable, ok)</p>

<p>Canon made big strides with the 7D dropping very good sealing into a sub $2000 camera, but the K-7 is light years smaller, just as well built, and cheaper. (and the D300s is no smaller, it's tank compared to the K-7).</p>

<p>And then of course the lenses, Pentax just has lenses the other two don't have (and yes, I know the other 2 have lenses Pentax doesn't have, but for the purposes of this thread Pentax wins hands down).</p>

<p>Bottom line, if this is the sort of photography you do, Pentax is simply superior. if you find yourself shooting at ISO 1600 day after day, shooting sports or wildlife with 600mm lenses, not the best system.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I actually think that the camera consideration should be the least of the worries. Carrying anything on your back of great weight will make for a miserable trip unless your acclimated to not only the load from hopeful previous outings but more importantly to the elevation as well. Your not going to be in Kansas anymore. Also remember you'll probably be carrying water as well; Nice heavy water. Now what you haven't mentioned is, if this is a trip thru a company that does excursions like this and what do they recommend for a pack. If your going hiking for three weeks with tent camping and almost no overnight lodgings except here and there, the more important things are the backpack, appropriate sleeping bag with sleeping pad, lightweight tent, good boots, hat, sunscreen and the list goes on. Since you want to record this unique event go extra light with the accessory (I just got to have it) camera gear. One body, 1-zoom and P&S if need be for backup. Watch out for too many batteries, cold batteries, battery weight and film bulk if you shoot that. Dress in layers of performance materials that wick moisture away. Also make sure your in good shape and remember your feet! Nothing is worse them 3 weeks of backpacking and your feet hurt. What you might try before you go is to load a backpack with 60lbs of anything and go for a two to three mile hike. You will know instantly if you can go a normal ten miles or need to lighten things up a little so as not to risk your health and enjoy the trip more.</p>

<p>All valid points Wayne. We are a long way off from finalizing our plans, but it looks it will be mostly, if not entirely, a tea-house trek. So, a 60lbs sack is not really in my plans - no tent, cooking gear, minimal food and water. We're trying to avoid organized tours. We're not into the larger groups, and prefer to have a bit more freedom to move about/revisit places as we see fit. My friend, whom I will be traveling with, has done similar trips before; so I'm sure my pack will guided largely by his experience. But we are both quite different people and photographers, though. <br>

Also, the point of this trip IS the photography. I don't believe either of us would consider this journey without our cameras (not that it wouldn't be worthwhile). </p>

<p>Again, thanks to you all for your input. You have provided me with much to consider.</p>

<p>Sean</p>