how much fixer do I need for one b&w film

<p>Hi, can anyone tell me how much fixer I need to use to develop one roll of b&w film. I have found out how much developer (30ml-270ml of water) but still vague about the fixer. I am using water plus drop of white wine vinegar for the stop bath. Thanks</p>

<p>If you're doing your development in a light tight tank you need enough to cover the film.</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>On the bottom of most plastic tanks it will tell you how much fluid you need per roll. Mine is 375ml for one 35mm. Mix the fixer in the ratio noted on the bottle or package (mine is one part fixer to 4 parts water). If your tank doesn't give amounts per roll, just pour water into the tank with reel in place (no film) and see how much it takes to completely cover the reel.</p>

Generally, you buy the fixer as a dry powder and mix it with water to make one gallon. You pour in enough to cover the film and then pour it back into the one gallon container. It can be reused. Your tank should say how much it takes to cover one roll of film, usually 290 ml for a Paterson tank.

<p>A drop of vinegar is not enough for a stop bath, 2parts of 5% vinegar to 3 parts water is much better, and it can be stored and reused. Do NOT use wine vinegar, ordinary white stuff is better.</p>

<p>For fixer, follow the times and mixing directions on the package and or website for the one you buy. They vary according to the package. Ilford liquid concentrate is way easier to mix than powdered and smells less as well.</p>

<p>It is a good idea to use a different bottle of fixer for Film & Paper.<br>

not entirely necessary but desirable. fixer lasts a long time especially if you are careful to not "carry over"<br>

developer past the stop/wash bath. \<br>

There used to be a small bottle sold HYPO-CHEK. You put in one drop and it told you if the fixer was exhausted.. If you find a chart that tells you the capacity of a pint or quart ( 500 ml or 1000ml) of fixer you could put a piece of tape on the bottle amd "tick off" each roll.<br>

You can also use SarN WRAP ( FLEXIBLE PLASTIC WRAP<br>

to cover print developer and fixer trays ( if there are NO CHILDREN around.<br>

also never use food bottles to store chamicals. Sometimes certain bottles, with labels removed could be used as long as they cannot be mistaken for somthing an innocet could taste.</p>

<p>You need the <em>same</em> volumes for all. I strongly suspect you're processing 35mm film, but why not spell it out, it instrumental to meaningfull responses. For single 35mm in Stainless Steel type reels I always found 8 oz of solution (240cc) sufficient.</p>

<p>Your stop bath seems funky: I'd suggest to get the proper stuff, say Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, and mix per the instructions.</p>

<p>Jo, do you mean, how much fixer to mix with water to make a working solution? When you purchase fixer in a mix or concentrate, the concentrate is usually tell you how much working solution that unit will make [enough to make 1L, or 1 gallon, etc.].</p>

<p>If you get a liquid concentrate, the directions will be on the bottle. If you use Kodak fixer, which comes in powder form, the directions will be on the bag. They sell sizes enough to make a liter, another to make a gallon, if I remember correctly (3.8L).</p>

<p>If you only have pure hypo, sodium thiosulfate (pentahydrate), the transparent looking crystals, like from Photographer's Formulary or something, it'll be about 240g of sodium thiosulfate crystals into 800mL water, then top off to 1L. Or, you can drop that proportionally. Pure hypo will wear out faster. I'd go with a Kodak mix if you are in the US. They are good products. J.</p>