How do you load your reels?

Hey Everyone -

 

Just starting processing, so have a couple of questions.

 

Wondering what people's preferred methods for loading reels for processing 35mm

B&W film. Ultimately, it's just a small step and it's the dev, time and temp

that are critical, but as I'm just starting out I'm obsessing over small details.

 

Do you use a cassette opener? Do you open w/ your hands? Does anyone use a

leader retriever and then snip the leader and feed onto the reel BEFORE turning

out the lights or going into the changing bag?

 

If you have favorite tanks and reels, do let me know. I assume I'll go w/

Patterson. But I think that the Samigon reels might be even easier to load than

the Paterson reels. Thoughts? I know some prefer stainless steel, but was

thinking I'd go w/ the easier option.

 

Thanks for any feedback. I'm sure I'll be asking additional questions on

developers and times, but wanted to get a good handle on the intial steps.

 

Many thanks.

 

Regards,

-Mark

I use the custom function on my Elan to leave the leader outside the film roll (unless I'm shooting infrared of course), it makes it pretty easy.

Thanks, Chris.

 

So, do you then snip the leader w/ the scissors and feed it onto the reel like that? Are you doing that OUTSIDE of the changing bag (given that the leader and first couple of inches of the film won't contain any real exposures)?

 

Thanks,

-Mark

I have a DR in my basement. I get in there with all my stuff set up on the table in the light and then turn the light out (this way I know where stuff is).

 

I yank the cannister open with needle nose pliers, cut the leader square with scissors, feed the start of the film onto a patterson reel, ratchet that baby until I get to the spool and cut the spool off. This goes into the tank.. and since I am usually doing more thanone roll I repeat the process until I have all my rolls sealed in the tank and then proceed to the development phase of the thing.

 

I do use Patterson stuff. Works well and, with the exception of the tanks cracking sometimes, is pretty durable.

Yeah, you snip it off, and then feed it in, it automatically rewinds itself to the exact size it is when you first buy the film, so you don't have to worry about ruining any exposures. I don't know if the camera you are using allows this function though?

 

Using Kodak, HIE, I (IN TOTAL DARKNESS), use a can opener to pop it open, and I sort of suck doing it this way. I don't know if it's because the negative is so thin, or I am just bad at it.

Well, I just use a can opener to open the cassette, use a scissor to cut out the leader and then reel in the film by hand. But all steps in total darkness.

I also should have said that I prefer stainless steel reels over plastic, but I started using steel reels and tanks over 35 years ago and once you get the hang of it I think it's easier. But in my photo classes we always use Patterson plastic reels and tanks.

It's worth it to buy a cheap roll of film (any kind, to be sacrificed) and go through the processing steps with the lights *on*. Then start doing it with your eyes closed. Can save a lot of grief ;)

 

I miss the old days when you could rewind by hand: very easy to stop rewind with the leader out. Now, some cameras can be set to this, some not. If not, the can opener's the simplest way to go.

 

Also, I liked the stainless steel reels: no moving parts, simple.

I bulk load so I pop or screw the tops off but when I use store film I just rip it open in my changing bag. ir if I feel like it and remember I use a church key opener.

 

Larry

To open the film cassette, I use the bottle opener end of an old-fashioned manual can opener, the kind that looks a little like a pair of pliers. You can still buy these in grocery stores. I trim the film end square with scissors, then load onto stainless steel reels. Darkoom or changing bag, doesn't matter which.

The key in loading stainless steel reels is to just trust the process. As the film bends around the reel, it goes from narrow cupped to wide enough to stay in the spirals. Also, be sure the reel isn't bent.

 

I open the cassettes with a "church key" (bottle opener).

I like the steel tank–reels combinations. I try to leave a bit of leader sticking out when I rewind my film, as, yes, I do find it helps to cut off the leader in the light and load the film that way; but, if I go too far and leave myself nothing, I pop the container open with a bottle opener.

Both of the cameras that I run film through leave the leader out, so I cut that square before I put the film in the changing bag. I have a leader extractor that I bought off eBay, and I also know how to pull the leader out with a scrap of processed film, but I only rarely need to use either of those.

 

The processor I currently run uses Patterson reels, which work okay if they're bone dry. If I had my choice I'd definitely use Hewes stainless reels instead, they're not only easy to load when dry but you can actually load them when the film is dripping wet if you find the need to redo part of the processing after you've started to hang it up. The Hewes reels are good and sturdy and easier to load than any of the other brands. I guess I should say "Hewes spirals", I believe that's what the Brits call them.

 

Van

I don't wind it all the way back (manual wind), and partially load it onto paterson reels. I then go into darkroom and load, then snip off the cassette.

 

For 120, there isn't much choice :)

Thanks for all the great replies, everyone!

 

I've ended up getting a Paterson tank w/ AP reels - they feed quite well, better than the

Paterson reels, I think.

 

I'll snap off the canister and trim the film load in the dark; should be able to get used to

that.

 

Thanks again!

-Mark

Reminder: there is only one "t" in Paterson.

All I use are old mechanical cameras, so whn I am rewinding film, I can hear and feel when it comes off from the take up spool. That's when I open the latch and take the film out. No need to retrieve film from inside the canister, or pry it open. Ofcourse you increase the risk of scratches by running the film through the canister's lips for a second time. But that has never happened to me.

I bought a film changing bag which is absolutely great - cost about 10 pounds - and you can then load the spool and put it in the tank in the bag, without having to be in the dark.

I've been using a paterson tank, but recently it has started to jam, so I am going to try out a stainless steel system.

 

I open my film canisters with an ordinary bottle opener that came in a christmas cracker, if I have accidentally or deliberately wound the whole film back.

Joe

 

Your Paterson may have photo-flo build up. That is if you use it. I found that you can clean them with a dilute white vinager and warm water I just soak it in the vinager for a few hours then rinse in warm water.

 

Larry

Larry

Thanks for the tip, I will give that a go, if I have to use it again. Have you got a tip to stop the thing leaking?

I bought a second had stainless tank and I now have no problems, although I did lose a couple of frames from a couple of films before I got the hang of loading it. I would say it's a superior system, although that is likely to be refuted by someone, i expect.