loading 120 film onto developing reels

Hello. I have a Holga camera that I love to use, but I've become so frustrated

trying to develop the film that I don't use it as much as I'd like. My problem

is getting the 120 film onto the reels for developing. I use a plastic tank

and reels, loaded in a changing bag, the same set-up that I use regularly with

no problems for developing 35mm film. For some reason I just cannot get the 120

film to "walk" smoothly onto the reel. First I have trouble getting it

started, then more often than not it hangs up in the middle of the roll and

will not go on all the way. I've literally spent as much as 45 minutes just

trying to load the film on the reel! As I said, I've never had issues with

35mm, and I've struggled through enough 120 that I should have gotten the hang

of it by now. Any suggestions?! Thanks!

Have a look at the following:-<div></div>

First, I put everything into a deep plastic tray to stop it rolling around.

 

(Obviously, all of the following is done in total darkness).<div></div>

I don't really like Paterson reels for 120 (or 220) film. If you have to use them, try rounding off the corners of the leading edges of the film. This will make scratching of the corners against the inside of the reels less likely. I prefer stainless steel reels. I pull the tape gently off of the backing paper and fold it over the film. Then I load the film end with the tape on it into the clip. You must balance things out so that the top and bottom of the film are the same distance from the top and bottom of the reel. Then it winds in very nicely.

Now, put three fingers under the film and your thumb on top. Practice holding your three fingers such that they are level. Put a finger into the centre of the reel to stop it moving and your thumb over the lug at the entrance to the spiral. Pull the film under your thumb (you'll feel it scratching against your thumb) and then into the reel until the leading edge has gone past the ball-bearings.<div></div>

Once the film is engaged in the reel, pick it up, drop your thumbs down the reel to flatten the film as it winds in, and start cranking the reel to feed the film in.<div></div>

When you get to the end, peel the tape off the backing paper and fold it over then end of the film. Crank the reel two or three more times to make sure the film is fully loaded.

Are you using Paterson reels, by any chance? I had a lot of trouble with them with 120/220 film. I switched to another brand of plastic reels, the one with the wider lip to accept the film, and the problem went away.

 

Wish I could find the name brand, but it's not listed anywhere. I bought them at Adorama for about $5.00 each. Good luck!

A few points I should have mentioned. When I come to load 120, I unroll the backing paper down to the start of the film (you can feel when you get there) and then tear it off up to that point.

 

Secondly, ensure the sides of the reel are turned so that the lugs at the start of the spiral are lined up together (so that each side of the film goes into the spiral at the same time).

Chris has great instructions - I also find it more difficult than 35mm film, it just takes patience and practice.

I cut a piece of cardboard from the film box about one inch wide and the width of the reel. I fit that in the reel before the loading start. Then I slide the film over that into the reel. That prevents the film from curling in as it is started.

Stainless is a lot simpler and has less trouble with moisture and uncleaned chemistry. With stainless you do need to learn a tactile process (feeling the back of the film for bumps to confirm good loading as you roll it on), but that does make it perfect for changing bags. It takes practice.

 

The Patterson technique we've kindly and perfectly been shown by Chris Walker, won't work as well in a changing bag ( Brian Barger's specific request). Things become more tactile in a bag...I remember the first camping date with my x-wife...

Great instructions from Chris and as also stated by Jeff, cut the corners off the film. Just a bit makes a huge diference, for me at least.

Dalton suggested using the Ultra Reels. Sometimes they are called "Easy Load" reels. They have very wide flanges. Another huge help is a device made by NOVA. This holds the film and reel parallel. Using this with Ultra reels make loading a total pleasure!

Thanks Bruce - those are the ones! I remember pulling my hair out trying to load those dang Paterson reels with my first few rolls of 220. I was practically in tears. The Ultra Reels are so easy to load it's like they're not even there.

 

The only problem with plastic reels is that they're unusable if they're a little wet. They'll pretty much ruin your film if you try it, so I just bought six of them, so I can rush through developing a bunch of rolls if I need to without waiting for them to dry.

Great pictorial. Yeah those reels with the wide flange make it a snap.

I'll add my vote to snipping the corners. Made a huge difference for me too... Just the tiniest bit is all it takes.

Another vote for stainless steel Hewes reels. Just push down the clip, insert the end of the strip between the two bars and let the clip spring back securing the strip and reel away. Couldn't be easier.

Real photographers and professional labs use stainless, never plastic. I still have and use

stainless reels and tanks I got when I was student in the 1970's. In Photography school

plastic reels/tanks were never allowed in the lab.

I've got a collection of stainless reels in both 120 and 35mm that I picked up used in the 60's and 70's. Kinderman, Nikkor, Omega and Acura ~ at least the 120 reels all have pretty much the same clip. The 35mm Nikkors have no clip, and the Kindermans have two variations depending on when they were made. They last about forever. Get some stainless steel reels and give them a try!

dear brian,

 

I FOUND JOBO PLASTIC REELS MUCH EASIER TO LOAD WITH EITHER 35mm OR 120 FILM

THAN MANY STAINLESS REELS AND THE PATTERSON PLASTIC REELS. THE TIP ABOUT

CLIPPING THE CORNERS IS A GOOD ONE. ALSO GIVING THE LAST 1/ 2 INCH OF THE FILM A

REVERSE CURL TO THE CURL OF THE FILM. ALSO: THE REELS HAVE TO BE DRY, DRY, DRY.

[uSE A HAIRDRYER IF YOU AREN'T SURE AFTER THE REELS HAVE AIR-DRIED OVER-NITE.

 

FINALLY: IF YOU CAN DO YOUR REEL LOADING IN A COOL ROOM WITH LOW HUMIDITY

[ air-conditioned ] YOU'LL FIND THE FILM EASIER TO HANDLE AS IT WON'T BE SO LIMP

AND STICKY.

 

sincerely, phil temple, temple32@charter,net

I also use the Jobo reels but loading a specific reel seems to be very personal when I always see the reactions.

 

The biggest problem with the plastic reels is humidity and working with a roll film in a changing bag over 5 minutes, this is going to be a problem.

 

Doing this in a darkroom or 100% light tight cabinet you can load a 120 roll film within 1 minute in a reel.

The film is wider and that's why it is getting out more easily from the reel and indeed finding the entry in the dark is more complicated than a 35mm version where you can load the first beginning part on it by light.

Brian I understand your frustrations - I started using 120 about 2 months ago after using 35mm. Same thing, no probs with 35mm but had issues with getting 120 on the rolls. I have both Paterson and AP reels - AP are much easier - they also have the "wide flanges" others have mentioned. One trick I learned from someone at the local photo store was to completely remove the backer paper before loading on the spool. I tried it and it made life a lot easier. By doing it this way I found I could take the tape at the end and fold it over, making that end much thicker. I think this also makes it much easier to get into the reel, and to get it started. The reel seems to grab this thicker end better. I still haven't managed to get the Paterson reels to work. Good luck.

Chris.

I never bother trimming off the leading corners. On the odd occasions when the film sticks, I just slap the side of the reel with my hand and that usually frees it up.

Having used Paterson Nylon reels for forty years, and several thousand films, I can assure you that they are easy to load 120 into, if you just remember two simple rules.

 

The first rule is that they must be DRY. I leave mine in the airing cupboard for a couple of hours after use.

 

The second rule is that you need to take some of the curl out of 120 film before loading it.

 

As I always load in a changing bag, I have evolved the simplest of procedures to straighten the film: having slit the binding tape with a finger nail, simply wind the backing paper tightly in reverse (black side out) until you feel the beginning of the film itself. Just make sure that's tucked into the new roll and continue until roughly six inches of film has been reverse curved. Let the roll unwind, feed the free end of the film into the reel and wind the rest in until you get to the taped end. Tear the film off the backing paper and wind the rest in.

 

That's it. The above procedure takes little time, perhaps 30 seconds from roll to reel, and works every time.<div></div>