ricardovaste Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Hi,I've just developed some negatives rates at 200 [hp5+] and they came out very dark, you cant see the image unlessyou hold it up to direct light. I used ID-11 1:3 14minsilfostop 15ml in 300 10secsilford rapid fixer 60ml in 300 3minswashes out in water for 5~6mins I followed the timing off digitaltruth.com and ive been developing hp5+ at 400 and 800 asa in the same chemicals for about the last three months now. The main reason i posted this is because they were my dads photos and i was wondering if i can still salvage them and where i have gone wrong. I should also add that the ID-11 cant be much over a month old and has been kept in a light tight and air tight container [though it was half full as the collapsable bottle was a bit dodgy] I would appreciate a reply to this so that i know whats going on.Thanks a lot,Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickdaniels Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 There is a book by Fred Picker, Zone V! Workshop. You can get it for just a few books, I got mine for $1.00 plus shipping. It go through the process of testing your camera and development times to establish proper settings. You will need to fine access to a densitometer (some film processors will let you use one). It really can save you a bunch of time and headaches. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_goulet Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Since you didn't shoot the images yourself, there is a chance that they were not actually exposed at 200... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_foley Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Richard, While loading the film on the reel it may have become fogged.Check to make sure that there are no light sources that can contribute to that problem.Any and all sources can cause problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricardovaste Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Thanks for the replies. Evan, I'm possitive that it was at 200 because i was the one who put it there for him because it was a fairly bright day and there was no need for it to be 400 [thanks for bringing it up though, so we can find out what happened]. John, I was working with a darkroom lamp, but not in the usual location, i was squashed in a closet and the lamp was under 3 feet away from the film most of the time - could this be the most likely issue? the negatives don't even show the information at the 'top' and 'bottom' [where it says the film make and the frames] so im im presuming it has then got to be something to do with when i loaded it into the tanks and light getting on the whole of the film. Can i still print from these? I havent had a film go wrong before this so i havent had the opportunity to try and print a 'dodgy' film. thanks for the input and the suggestions, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianS1664879711 Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Richard, I don't develop my own B&W (despite the fact that I know I should)... but I think only orthochromatic (blue-sensitive) film can be safelight illuminated. Your use of safelight may have fogged the film during loading. From the HP5+ data sheet: Safelight recommendations Handle HP5 Plus film in total darkness. For very brief inspections during processing, use the ILFORD 908 (very dark green) safelight filter, with a 15W bulb, fitted in a darkroom lamp (such as the ILFORD DL10 or DL20). Do not allow direct lighting from the safelight to fall on the film. ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tripanfal Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 If you loaded the film in anything but complete darkness, I assume this to be your problem. I was told a safelight will ruin film, and always to load film in the tank in a completely dark room. If you are unsure if it is completely dark, allow you eyes 10 minutes or so to adjust to the darkness, then you can see any light leaks in the room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricardovaste Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Yes, thanks for just comfirming that. It seems you've solved the problem. I don't really know why i used the safelight, as ive done it fine for the last few months in complete darkness, guess i was just trying to make it a bit easier. I won't be taking any shortcuts again. Thanks, Richard. p.s. so does anyone know whether i can get decent prints from this? or is it for the bin... :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nealcurrie Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 they're gone if they were fogged during the loading. contrast will be almost non existant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog50 Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Richard I had the same exact problem with the same film the problem is it has to be put on the reel in complete darkness When i used a safelight that was way across the room all the negs came out dark even the edging on the film was black I thought it was over exposure or over development but in fact it was the procedure i used to put it on the reel Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricardovaste Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 thanks for all the help. i wont make the same mistake again. richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_noel1 Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 If you loaded the HP5 for your Dad, and you rated it "at 200 because it was a bright day and he did not need 400", the film is over-exposed by one full stop. Unlike Tri-X, HP5+ can usually be exposed at EI400. All the other answers may also be correct, but this is an underlying problem for the "Dark" film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricardovaste Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 Yes james, i was well aware that i was over exposing the film by one stop, i did so because 'it was a sunny day' and the lower iso would reduce the grain, so there was no need for it to be exposed at 400. I was also aware that when you change the iso setting to the speed on the box this has to be made up in the darkroom [and i did so 1:3 for 14mins, as stated on digitaltruth.com] - as i stated before i had been pushing the film to 800. I have already concluded that the only reason for the dark negatives [covering the whole of the film] was because of the safelight. But thanks for the input anyway. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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