enrico_pocopagni1

<p>hello,<br>

here's the manual:http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/assets/files/documentation/RZ67PROII_Instr.pdf<br>

Check the battery status; there are three less at the bottom of the finder; that are activated by half depressing the shutter release.<br>

With no battery this camera will operate at only 1/400 sec.<br>

Hope this helps</p>

<p>greetings</p>

<p>enrico</p>

<p>50 f 4,5 ULD for in some cases 65 couldn't be wide enough. A great wideangle<br>

Greetings</p>

<p>Enrico</p>

<p>Hello Martin,<br>

this is my same experience, and the reason I switched for the 50 ULD too.<br>

50 ULD is sharper by far, another breed.<br>

Enrico</p>

<p>Hello John,<br>

I have some test shots, so to speak, in my portfolio.<br>

I had the 50W and switched to 50ULD (that I currently have and use) with easily visible quality (and satisfaction) increase.<br>

I had a 360W that I changed with a 350 Apo and a 180W that I changed with a K/L 210 Apo.<br>

If Mamiya conventional teles are very good performers, Apos are Hexotherical ones (I don't know if it's a correct english word, I hope so). Some examples here:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13248078@N04/<br>

Happy new year from Italy.<br>

Enrico</p>

<p>Hi Heinz,<br>

I had both and sold 180 W-N. Not much different perspective (I do mostly landscape). 210 is superior for sharpness and color rendition, but for B/W 180 is more than suitable; so question may be price to use ratio.<br>

Greetings</p>

<p>Hello Terry,<br>

you'll see red lighting numbers at both side of the viewfinder. Times at left, exposure at right. Outside the metering prism there's nothing to see.<br>

Enrico</p>

<p>Hello Terry,<br>

these are only few test shots (so to speak): <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=149558">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=149558</a><br>

90 RZ was my first lens. It is a stellar performer, exactly like all other Mamiya lenses.<br>

Enrico</p>

Hello Troy,

here are a few exemples of Z 50 and z 50 ULD. Sharpness increase is evident.

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=149557

Greetings

Enrico

hello JD Rose,

thanks for visiting my portfolio.

Actually 50 ULD coverage is equivalent to 24 mm.

My lens choice is 50, 90, 210 APO.

Greetings.

Enrico Pocopagni

hello Ben,

these are some pics I took with a 360: http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=149561.

I think it's a more than satisfactory lens if used with some care. No need to say that all pics were on tripod and MLU.

Greetings.

Hello,

I had a 180 W-N and I changed it for a 210 K/L APO to use with my RZ. Both are very good lenses, but APO is another breed: not much different in perspective and DOF and minimum focus distance (although I suggest to use it with an extension ring for close portrait) is noticeably sharper, and the tonal rendition is really "hexoteric". Hope this helps.

Greetings

hello John,

try this: http://www.mamiya.com/uf_pdfs/RZII_AE_Prism_Finder.pdf

Why not? Of course they do, on both RZ and RZII. Yes, all RB and RZ lenses are leaf shutter. Take into account you'll have to infinite focus on the focusing screen because RB lenses focus past infinite on RZ bodies. Automatic exposure features (with AE finder) are lost as well because no electronic interface is present in RB lenses.

Greetings.

Hello James,

I think that neither cameras are good handholded. Problem is format, not brand. Try to consider TLR 6X6 (Rollei for instance). Mirror slap is a problem and the normal lens for 6X7 (around 100mm) behaves like a tele in this regard.

Greetings.

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=421468

In my last trip in Sardinia I carried only my Rollie 2.8E. No tripod to save space and weight. These are the best pictures I took. Greetings

Hi Malcom,

I am the Lucas side. I find my RZ AEII metered finder very accurate. But you have to consider it's not "Intelligent" like Matrix-like meters. It only can automatically switch between average and spot, depending upon scene contrast. Obviously I have to do some adjustment to meet my needs.

Greetings

Hello Mike,

please consider that using KL lenses over RZ body you will loose some magnification at closest range and you'll have to check infinite focus because KL lenses focus beyond infinite on RZ bodies. It could be worth have an extension ring (45mm should be enough). You'll sacrifice electronic controlled long exposures too (up to 8 sec.) Have you considered buying a full RZ system (lighter and easier to use)?

Greetings from Italy

Hi Jaques,

if you extensively use halfway shutter speed and you hate halfway aperture values, than RZII is your way. (Just kidding) I see no difference with my RZ pro.

Greetings

Hello Danny,

KL lenses are equal to RZ in optical design, according with Mamiya specs. But if you choose RB lens consider that lens barrel are not, due to different body length (RZ shorter than RB). Thus RB lenses on RZ bodies will focus far beyond infinite and consequently closest focus will result a bit longer and magnification smaller. In a normal lens this is not important, in a macro lens it could.

Greetings

RZ 67II has a right hand precision focus knob and, according with Mamiya indications, some minor mechanical improvements, transparent to the user.

RZ II film backs have two frame counters, RZ only one.

Both cameras share all the lenses and most acessories included AE prism finder II that gives half speed capabilities to the older RZ too.

Greetings

I don't know for other brands, but for Mamiya RZ 120 and 220 pressure plates of insert aren't equal.

http://www.photo.net/photo/2446597

220 pressure plate (left) has two slightly depressed rails so the dotted plate protrudes to fill, I argue, the thickness of the missing paper. 120 on the other hand has a perfectly uniform plate.

I too did cross load from time to time without spacing problems, but I still think it's not a recommended practice.

Greetings.

Steven,

Try the new RZ 50 ULD. It's another breed.

Enrico

Hello

Terry,

information ring and Float element ring are substantially different: the first, with no optical function, is a narrow plastic ring normally blue on RZ and a kind of gray (if I remember well) on RB, with a small rectangular driving handle and a metric and foot/inch scale for DOF estimate printed in white. It is located on the narrow part of the barrel, immediately before the shutter speed ring on RB lenses. It rotates almost freely and have a stop at the end of each scale.

The second is an adjusting ring similar to aperture and shutter speed rings. It is normally the frontmost ring. While operating it you can feel some resistance. Only few lenses have it: RZ 50 ULD and 65, Macro 140, RB 50, RB KL 90 and Macro 140.

Its goal is mainly to flatten the focus plane, increasing sharpness at the edges; its effect is inapparent in the finder but significant on the film, especially at the edges. When a distance estimate is impossible, leave it at infinite position.