JohnMWright

<p>I don't use the Canon software to do the downloading. I put the card in a card reader, which opens up a file manager, then I copy the files to a temp folder for further sorting. This retains the original filenames from the camera. <br>

So... I'm not sure how to get DPP to do what you want... but that's how I deal with it.</p>

<p>In terms of IQ, you won't go wrong with any of them. I think it comes down to which features you want, your budget, and what feels best in your hands.</p>

<p>If it is an option, I would suggest saving for a D200 or D300 so you can keep using those manual Nikkors. You'll save a lot of money in the long run.</p>

<p>So Tommy, do I read correctly that you have a 5D already? If so, why not take the 5D and the 40D?</p>

<p>I love the 50D. I still think the 20D produces excellent quality images, but the 50D beats it in every respect. I typically use ISO 100-400, but I've used 3200 for Christmas lights at night and it looks decent. Where I consider the 20D unusable at ISO 1600+, I think the 50D produces OK results at 3200. Like puppy, I wouldn't use 6400 or 12,800 except in a pinch.</p>

<p>AF works better on the 50D. My 100mm f/2.8 USM macro would almost never lock focus with the 20D... it works pretty well with the 50D. With my other lenses the difference is less noticeable. </p>

<p>The AF microadjustment turned out to be useful... on that very same macro lens, there was a very slight backfocus which I corrected. I never knew it was a problem on the 20D because AF never worked anyway... none of my other lenses have any problems I can detect, but perhaps I only notice with the macro because I get so close and DOF is so shallow around life-size.</p>

<p>The colors are noticably more vibrant on the 50D.</p>

<p>The viewfinder is noticeably better than the 20D (the 40D and 50D share the same viewfinder (brightness and magnification)).</p>

<p>I love the AF-ON button... no news to a 40D user but quite a nice thing to add for a 20D/30D user. I find this excellent for macro and landscape images.</p>

<p>The LCD is much much better. That alone makes it hard to go back to the 20D.</p>

<p>The only thing I don't like is the larger raw file size... I'm not complaining though. ;-) It went from 8 megs average to 20 megs...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Yes my 20D and 50D use the same batteries, charger and CF memory cards. The 30D and 40D are the same. BP-511a battery and CF cards.</p>

<p>I thought I'd replied earlier... I misunderstood your original post Anthony. I thought you were viewing the raw file (without saving it) in each program, which is why I thought about the picture styles in DPP vs PSE. I didn't realize you had dual monitors. It sounds like you got it figured out though.</p>

<p>I will guess you are seeing the use of picture styles. DPP uses the picture styles setting from your camera (depends on the model) which increases saturation. Elements doesn't know about the picture styles from the camera and won't add that saturation. If you set DPP to use neutral, it will likely be closer.</p>

<p>LOL, I do have a Jeep along with my 20D and 50D...</p>

<p>Image quality should be about the same. Obviously the 50D has more features. The rebel is lighter and cheaper, you know that of course. Holding both in your hands will tell you more. </p>

<p>Whether or not the feature differences mean anything to you depends on what types of images you want.</p>

<p>The 50D has a real pentaprism while the rebels use pentamirrors and are not as bright, not as easy to focus manually. Of the two, the 50D wins.</p>

<p>The rear wheel is another major thing for me. I like separate controls for aperture and shutter in manual mode, I dislike pressing a button to adjust one of them. For me, the 50D is a no-brainer in that regard.</p>

<p>I don't know if the AF is any different but if you want to shoot sports, the 6 fps of the 50D may be useful to you. I used cameras with no motor or only a 2 fps motor for a long time and wasn't worried about it.</p>

<p>Then there are a bunch of little things like having a PC terminal, which may not mean much to most people but is useful at times. I use some old flashes and find it useful. The 50D has this feature, the Rebel does not.</p>

<p>My favorites, because I learned with them, are the Minolta SRT-series bodies. SRT-101 and -102. They still work.</p>

<p>Natural Bridge to the west is a pretty area. Beyond the bridge is a short hike to a nice waterfall.</p>

<p>Chincoteague is wonderful. I plan to go back there this year.</p>

<p>I've only seen the northern half of Shenandoah (any only Skyline drive), but the southern end is pretty close to you.</p>

<p>Try any of the state parks near you.</p>

<p>Thanks for taking a look.</p>

<p>It's been awhile since I tried, but I think everything had this green band. My entire system (hardware + OS) has been replaced since that scan, so I'll try again and try a new cable. You are right, it could be something like that. It is USB and I have plenty of cables. I didn't think about it, I don't move things around so it didn't seem likely but certainly worth another look.</p>

<p>Scans from my Canon FS4000 have an uneven color cast. The scans all (more than one) now have a large band of green. Since more than one negative and more than one software (Vuescan and the included Canon software) exhibits the problem, it must be the scanner. Does anyone recognize the problem and is it easy/cheap to fix? <br /> <img src="../photo/8569989" alt="" /><br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/8569989</p>

<p>I mostly use DSLRs now but I still have a few slides and negatives I'd like to scan, and I'm trying to decide if the cost of fixing it is worthwhile... or if I should just have the remaining images scanned for me.</p>

<p>thanks,<br /> John</p>

<p>Since the lens mount won't be used, you can use any lens with a manual diaphragm. Did you keep any of your FD lenses? If not there are tons of cheap lenses around. The wider the lens, the greater the magnification when reversed, if I remember correctly.</p>

<p>I did this a long time ago with my Minolta MD lenses. I cut the center from an old rear lens cap to protect the coupling and offer a slight amount of shade.</p>

 

<p>Before you buy anything else, take a few coins to the store with you, put them on the counter, see if that lens will focus close enough for your taste.</p>

<p>To get closer with that lens, assuming the answer above was no, you have some options. <br>

Closeup "filters" as suggested above. Canon makes some nice two-element models, as does Nikon. 250D and 500D are the Canon labels for the closeup lenses.<br>

Extension tubes.</p>

<p>Or you will find yourself looking at macro lenses. If you do a lot of closeups, macro lenses are a great way to go, and aren't that expensive, relatively speaking.</p>

<p>You will need a good tripod if you don't already have one.</p>

 

<p>I should have said in my post that the custom function works in Av mode to force a faster shutter speed when the flash is on. The custom function only works for Av mode. Assuming the issue is white balance from incandescent lighting</p>

<p>Another option:<br>

I believe there is a custom mode on the 30D that forces the shutter speed to 1/250 when the flash is on (I have this on my 20D). That will eliminate (oeverpower) the ambient indoor light and use just the flash, which will provide better color balance. If you don't have one yet, get a flash with bounce capability.</p>

<p>Scott, are you using automatic AF point selection?</p>

<p>Thanks Jay, I'll experiment tonight. I haven't had a lot of field time with the new camera yet (and most of my subjects are fairly static), but I'm going to guess it is the same as your 40D in that regard.</p>

<p>This is a great thread, good information here. Thanks to everyone for sharing. Beautiful shots Leslie.</p>

<p>I just started using the AF-on button on my 50D and I love it, way better than my 20D.</p>

<p>I noticed an interesting thing about the 50D (perhaps the 40D is similar)... in AI servo the focus confirmation light is disabled, as is the beep (I turn that off anyway). If you are panning to follow a subject, how do you know when focus is right?</p>

<p>Check your manual but my former film Rebel left the film leader sticking out on rewind. </p>

<p>There are film pullers that can reach into the film canister and pull them back out if it does rewind completely. Google "film puller".</p>

 

<p>Alan, your scene above is where I'd take a meter reading and set it in manual.</p>

<p>My best purchases have always been on the lenses and a tripod with a good ballhead. You can't get the best out of a lens without a way to hold it steady.</p>

<p>Unless you want specific features in the newer bodies I'd stick with what you have until you feel it really limits you.</p>

 

<p>Nothing wrong with either 40D or 50D but I'd go for a used 5D since you are used to full-frame on the main body.</p>