rick_falck

You want the Contax macro lens because you liked the results of the Contax 35mm f2 lens? What Nikon lens are you comparing the Contax one too? Nikon's 35mm f1.4 has been compared to Leica favorably. Perhaps you should look into why your Nikon shots with whatever lens you are using for 35mm are not as good as the Contax 35mm prime before going to Contax for macro too.

I have a 77mm one that I use all the time on my Nikon and Pentax 645 lenses. Since I use the rule of thirds a lot, I have not found the fixed location of it to be a problem. I would rather have the rectangular one, but I love having the ability to leave it on a lens and just slap the lens cap on it and go, instead of having to remove it and put it back on each time. I got it after using the Cokin one and finding a scratch in it even though I handled it carefully. If I get a rectangular, it will be a glass one, like the Tiffen.

Actually, buying cheap first may not be a good intro. The cheaper ones lack an internal TTL metering and maybe even TTL flash capabilities (if those matter to you). I went with a Pentax 645 system and like it so much that I rarely use the Nikon any more for scenics, landscapes, and nature shots. This camera has many of the features of the 35mm SLRs, which is why I like it. You should decide what your priorities are with MF (what you are going to shoots and what features you will then need). I wanted a system I could hike with, have TTL metering when using lenses, and macro lenses. The availability of zoom lenses put the Pentax system at the top of my list, because one zoom can cover the range of 3 fixed ones, weighs less, and takes up less room. I can carry the whole system in a Tamrac hip bag (body, 35mm, 45-85 and 80-160). Decide what "tools" you need and go from there.

FYI, the extension tubes do not change the minimum focusing distance. So if you were to use one of the Nikon TC-14E II you could get more of the bird from the same distance.

This is probably a long shot, but you never know... I don't know anything about that camera. But I have a Pentax 645 (and now a 645N). It does not show anything until I press the shutter to go to the first frame. I forgot to do this once after loading a new roll and could not figure out why it wasn't letting me chose the exposure or showing the frame counter. Then I remembered and felt stupid. Could it be a similar oversight on your part?

Pentax, Contax, and Mamiya make AF SLR type 645 MF cameras. With 645, the 75mm is considered the standard lens (equivalent to 50mm in 35mm). I chose the Pentax because of its lower price and high quality. Drawbacks are that it will only flash sync up to 1/60th sec unless you use their LF (leaf shutter) lenses, and its top shutter speed is 1/1000th. Since I like to shoot landscapes, I use Velvia and E100VS slide films, and do not care about flash or need a higher shutter speed. I have yet to shoot faster than 1/250th sec.

 

They all have their pluses and minuses. In general, there are less film choices for MF than 35mm, but the major types are there.

I own the Pentax 645N and a whole Nikon outfit. I decided to keep my SB-28 and just use it on the Nikon. The only way it could be used on the Pentax would be with a pc cord (sc-15), and then it would only function in full manual mode. There is no Pentax flash you can get that is usable on the Nikon in TTL mode. I just got the AF500 for the 645N. You will have to keep the systems separate if you want TTL flash control.

 

The only other way to go would be to get a Metz or Sunpack type flash and separate bases (or controllers) for each camera. It would be cheaper than getting a flash for each camera, but your choices are limited, and you may not have all the functionality that a dedicated flash would have.

 

If you really value the 645N that much, get a Pentax flash for it. Trying to get something that will work on both systems will cause sacrifices to one or both.

If you watch the news and/or read the paper, you will never leave your house. Regardless of what really happened to this one guy, the fact that all of those perverts are up there and only one person has vanished is not exactly cause for alarm. You probably have a better chance of being killed at home or in your car anyway. I do what I can to lessen the chances of being a victim (like being very alert when I am in desolate or strange areas). Carrying a gun would just make me paranoid and feel stupid and ruin the experience anyway. I know this, because I tried it once. Do what you can, and do what you have to do to enjoy your hobby.

THey are likely talking about connecting it via a pc cord (nikon cord sc-15). Not all flashes have a pc connector. The SB-28 does, the SB-27 does not. You may need to buy the nikon shoe adapter AS-10 to use the cord with flashes (like the SB-27) that do not have a pc connector built in.

 

Of course, you would have to use it in manual mode this way.

The use of a ND filter would give you more flexibility with f-stops, but it would also limit the effective range of the flash.

Never mind... Wrong thread 8]

What's the difference between projecting a slide through a projector onto a screen to view it and projecting a slide through an enlarger on photo paper to make an enlargement? Nada.

Thanks guys! But this is an equipment question, not a technique one. I have been trying to figure out what flashes and cords can be used to do this. Maybe it would be a good idea to get the AF400T flash for candid and other hand held shots (maybe with a monopod) and for the posed portraits have another that I can connect to the AF400T and use as a slave. I have a stroboframe that may work with the 645N, which makes shoe mount types an option too. I am not looking for perfection here (and neither are they, since they don't want to pay $$ for a real pro). I also don't want to pay a lot for a system I won't use a lot. I just want something better than one shoe mounted flash. Thanks!

My sister is getting married in May. They want me to take portraits

and I would like to use my Pentax 645N instead of my 35mm Nikon

stuff. If I want to set up two dedicated TTL off camera flashes for

these shots (with one on each side of the camera), what flashes and

cords would I need? I just want something similar to what I can do

with my Nikon using a SB-28, SB-27, sc-17, and sc-19.

 

Thanks!

I haven't noticed any differences and find the coated ones to be a PIA (Pain In the Ass) because they are harder to clean. The only difference would be with glare, which is not an issue if you use a lens hood. Also, if you don't need the filter just take it off, shoot, and put it back on. This is better when shooting into the sun anyway.

Well, In my no where near humble enough opinion, the Pentax 645 is the obvious choice. The body can be had for $400-500 on Ebay, and the lenses are cheaper than their Mamiya counterpart. Quality is fabulous. I love mine!

If sharpness is your only concern, you may have a point. But if you look closely at the Epson one, it looks like sharpening has already been performed on it because of the increased contrast. Were you to take both images into Photoshop and sharpen them both so that they were as sharp as you can get them, the Nikon would be the clear winner, because the contrast and details would look more natural. Further sharpening the Epson scan would make it look a lot worse.

I spent 7 months traveling all over Europe, inlcuding Italy. I had my F100 with 20-35, 28-105, and 70-300ED lenses. I used the 28-105 for 90% of the shots. I recommend that you take the f100 with the 28-105 and the Fuji. You would regret leaving either behind, and this will cover most shots you will want to take. This way you can get those incredible shots that the Fuji can get and have the Nikon for the rest.

80-400VR too good to be true? Palease! It is a great lens when you don't need the speed of the f2.8! I love mine.

It sounds like you are talking about new instead of used here. I have found that those that advertise it cheaper than B&H for new USA stuff are rarely trustworthy. The markups on these items are very small. They would almost have to play games to make money. For used, I like KEH and Ebay. You have to be careful with Ebay, but if you deal with photo sellers with a lot of positive feedback, you will be OK.

I worry about it no more than the constant loss in value of my car. All of my previous computers cost thousands and became worthless in two years. My camera equipment is a bunch of toys and tools that I use for fun. If I were trying to make money with it, I would depreciate it on my taxes.

Thanks for all the input. I will go ahead and get the 55mm Pentax, and give it a whirl. The 80-160 zoom is not as bad. I will just have to do what I can with what I got, since sunsets are only a small precentage of what I want to do, and the lenses I have (35mm, 45-85, 80-160) are great for the rest. Hopefully adding the 55mm will give me better versatility without adding lots more weight or bulk.

 

Rick

All of the pics I have taken with the Pentax 645 and the 45-85 lens

have horrendous lens flare, when taking any pics with the sun in them

(sunsets). Some even have a large red triangle in them. I am

venturing to Maui in March and naturally want to get some sunset

pics. Are the 45mm and 55mm lenses good with flare? How about if I

use a ND grad (which I have used for the 45-85)? I hate to have to

buy smaller filters for new lenses, and may go with a Cokin like

system. Any ideas???

 

Danka.

You are probably right. I was thinking about taking pics of the moon as part of a scenic shot with maybe buildings or the moon's reflection off of water as part of it, since that is what I have done. With the 300mm lens, he is just zooming in on the moon itself.

I tried the same thing with my F100. I later learned from a book that anything slower than 1/4 sec is too slow to keep the moon from being blurry. I never got a night shot of a clear moon, and cannot verify this.

 

I have found though that photographing the moon is not much different than taking pics of fireworks or just of night shots of a city-scape. For 100 ISO film 8 secs at f8 works (match the secs to the fstop). For 160 film (I shot some tungsten) 6 secs at f8 works.

 

It depends on the brightness of the buildings, but I got very consistently good night shots this way with the sky accurately captured (typically after sunset when it turns dark blue and the lights come on to light up famous buildings in Europe), and it also worked for fireworks.