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thomas_a_ferko

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Posts posted by thomas_a_ferko

  1. I would like to locate an excellent repair shop that can repair

    either a Gossen or Sekonic digital exposure meter. Both of these

    manufacturers have their own repair facilities but charge an arm and

    leg when your meter goes down. Does anyone know of an excellent

    independant repair shop where trained personel can fix an inop

    digital meter at a reasonable price? Your input will be of great

    help to me. Contact me directly at: talltandj@aol.com Thanks, Tom

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    <i>Please post replies to the digest...</i>

  2. Next year I would like to go on a good photo tour to photograph the

    slot canyons in Arizona and later in fall of the year I would like to

    do the fall colors in Vermont, Main, or New Hampshire. I would like

    to hear from those who have been there and done that. In particular I

    would like to have instructor(s) that care about your development.

    Lodging should be included in the price of the tour. I plan to take

    my wife but she will not be a active participant. If you have gone

    this route please E mail me the proper contacts. I also am interested

    in your negative feedback from tours that you felt did not deliver up

    to your expectation for the money you spent.

  3. I have a digital 1 degree Minolta spotmeter M with leather case. Condition Excellent ++. Operates perfectly. I will trade it even for a Mamiya 645 lens as I dont use it much. What have you? State cosmetic condition of barrel. All glass optics must be perfect. Lens must operate perfecly. Contact me directly at: talltandj@aol.com
  4. I just purchased a 2x Teleconverter made by Komura to fit the Mamiya 645 camera lenses. As I understand this teleconverter was made for Mamiya prior to Mamiya making their own. Does anyone have input as to just how good this converter is or the address or E mail address where I can contact Komua for more details. Your input will be of great help. talltandj@aol.com
  5. I would like opinions as to the best soft carry bag(no Backpack) that is currently manufactured and will carry most of the Mamiya 645 camera system. I have the Mamiya Superwith power grip and prizm. The 45mm lens, a 105-210mm lens and the 500mm f8 mirror lens presently. I will be adding a few more lenses. I realize Mamiya makes a hard case for the camera system but I would like to hear from anyone who has or has used an ideal soft carry bag that has most Mamiya items laid out in a logical neat order. I need your recommendations- a focus point to look at when I shop for a bag. Forget price guidelines. I will appreciate all input. Email me direct: talltandj@aol.com
  6. I am looking for a 645 Mamiya 500mm f8 mirror lens in mint or nearly mint condition. The optics both internal and external must be free of any scratches, fungus, or deposits of any sorts. In otherwords- Clean and Clear. If you have one to sell that has never been opened for repair and meets all the above contact me with your lowest no haggle price. talltandj@aol.com
  7. I would like to hear from those persons owning the long discontinued 645 Mamiya 500mm f8 mirror lens. Just how sharp is this lens? What is its total lenght? Is there a tripod mounting ring or plate incorporated onto the lens or must the camera support the lens weight? Approximately how much does the lens weight? What would be a reasonable price to pay for a near mint lens in todays used market? I would appreciate any input by users or those having a handle on todays prices. I always test the waters before jumping in. Contact: talltandj@aol.com
  8. I plan to make 16x20 and larger size prints from color negatives this fall. I have already seen Fugi Velvia film printed on Ilfochrome paper. What color saturated 120 negative film and what printing paper can match the Velvia/ Ilfochrome combination for great color, and grainless glossy prints? What lab do you use to do your printing with the film/paper you recommend? I will greatly appreciate all input. Contact me directly at: talltandj@aol.com Thanks, Tom
  9. Excluding the Gitzo 410 and the expensive carbon fiber tripods- who manufactures a LIGHT&TALL tripod that is suitable for field use with a medium format camera. I am 6' 5'' tall. I have a Gitzo 410 and it meets the height requirement I need without bending down to view through the camera. It does not have a center columb. I adjust only the legs for height and without the center columb I gain on stability. The downside is- for a long walk in the woods it soon becomes very heavy. Can someone recommend a lighter tripod that will go up near as high as the Gitzo 410 without extending a center columb? It should be able to collapse near to ground level also. Metal or wood makes no difference. Is such a tripod made? I will appreciate any input. Contact : talltandj@aol.com Tom
  10. Does anyone know of any manufacturer who makes a 500mm f8 mirror lens for the Mamiya 645 format camera? I see plenty of those lenses for the 35mm cameras with adapters so you can use them on a different camera. Mamiya used to make a 645 mirror lens many years ago but they are hard to find in excellent condition, and expensive. Has anyone looked into this? There are 500mm f8 OPTICAL lenses that are made for medium format but I need the light (and short) mirror lens. All input will be greatly be appreciated. Contact: talltandj@aol.com Thanks, Tom
  11. I have a metal 4x5 view camera, two quality lenses in accurate shutters on lensboards, 14 film holders. Will trade all for your 645 Mamiya 55 to 110 zoom lens. A good way for someone to get into larger format. I have the Mamiya 110-210 zoom and plan to do all my shooting now with both zooms and a camera. For all details contact: talltandj@aol.com
  12. 4x5 Velvia is a very popular film as everyone knows. I would like all input from users as to the reciprocity times they found in practical field shooting at very slow speeds. Also any usefull info on the exposure limits(sunny day) shooting vs overcast day. Nightime shooting also. Any metering hints for using a hand held spot meter (fast) to come up with on the nose exposures in any lighting situation. I would like to hear from those who have been there and done that. No speculations please. Contact: talltandj@aol.com Tom
  13. I am planning to use a 210mm lens made for a 8x10 view camera on a 4x5 view camera.There will be a huge circle of good definition available for the 4x5 swings and tilts. My questions are as follows: I have a focal lenght chart that indicates a 28mm lens on a 35mm camera covers the same area as the 105mm lens on a 4x5 camera. Also the same area as a 210mm lens on a 8x10 camera. Since I will use the 8x10/ 210mm lens on a 4x5 camera does that mean I my effective focal lenght will be 105mm instead of 210mm? What-if anything- does change in doing this with regards to depth of field or hyperfocal distance? Contact: talltandj@aol.com
  14. There is a lot of different manufactures of Didymium (Enhancing/Intensifing) filters out there. Tiffen, Hoya, Singh-Ray, are just a few. I would like to hear from those that use Fuji Velvia film as to what results they had using a enhancing or intensifing filter. In particular-the sky- which seem to go magenta with Didymium Who has used the new (and mighty expensive) Singh-ray enhancing filter with the polarizer incorporated in it? When fall comes around I would like to be ready this year and welcome all user input on any filter manufacturer. Thanks, Tom talltandj@aol.com
  15. Has anyone established a good way to know in advance exactly

    how much exposure compensation is necessary using a polarizer

    at various settings?

     

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    I do not have behind the lens metering.

     

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    The thought occurred to me that I might be able to pre-caliberate

    a polarizer using various settings and later take it into the field.

     

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    I have access to an evenly illuminated daylight light table and a very

    accurate Minolta one degree spot meter. Could I take readings

    through the polarizer on the light table at various settings, mark

    the polarizer, then use it in the field. There I can work with the

    compensation values I previously marked.

     

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    Another question arises - would a linear polarizer fool a one degree

    Minalto spot meter into giving inaccurate readings or would it be

    best to use circular polarizer? I understand a circular polarizer is

    used with modern electronics.

     

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    Does anybody have any suggestions or a fast accurate way to use

    polarizers at various settings with a view camera that does not have electronics? Only a hand held one degree spot meter will be used.

     

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    Please contact tallltandj @aol.com

  16. I need several metal lensboards for a 4x5 New-Vue camera made by the Newton Photo Products Co. in the 1940 era. Its not a well known camera. The lensboard is 4x4 inches and 1/8 inch thick. It has a raised metal ridge on the inside that acts as a light baffle. This raised metal ridge measures 3 5/8x 3 5/8 inch and contacts the insides of the camera when the lensboard is in place. Does anyone know where I can find a source for this board or did another manufacturer make a similar metal board with the same specs? Contact: talltandj@aol.com
  17. Along with the helpfull response that I recieved on depth of field and hyperfocal distance I recently located an on line computer that will solve these problems for all film formats. It will chart out f stops on any camera with any lens desired. Just select the film format you are using and plug in what is known to you. The unknowns will appear. Its very simple to use. You might want to bookmark it. Please check out: http://www.worldphoto.com/depthof.htm Thanks, Tom
  18. I plan to use a 135mm and 150 mm lens on a 4x5 camera. A friend of mine has a 5x7 camera -- he plans to use the lenses also. Questions--- What are the hyperfocal mathematics so that one can plot out a chart for 5x7? I have a hyperfocal distance chart for the 4x5 format. Can I use my 4x5 chart for 5x7 as well? If not--- Why? as stated above the same lenses will be used. For those who are not familiar with hyperfocal distance-- After the mathematics are done all you do is use your result chart--Simply set your camera to focus on a given hyperfocal distance with lens set on a selected f stop.The shutter should reference metered speeds for the f stop you select. Your chart calculations will reference you exactly where the nearest sharp distance is with infinity being sharp as well. This can be done for all f stops on your lens or lenses. Now after all the explanation -- who can answer the three questions I asked? Thanks, Tom talltandj@aol.com
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