laurencecochrane

Nice dog and welcome. And I like the pic. Do not criticise yourself too much. Just keep working on it. Post some pics on here to get feedback. Personally I have seen some horrific stuff posted that were only fit for the recycle bin. Do'nt worry too much post them. But critique them yourself first before someone else does.

43 minutes ago, rodeo_joe1 said:

Looking at the MSDS for that liquid electrical tape, some of it's got some pretty nasty solvents in it - Xylene and Toluene for example. Not sure if they're legal for general sale in the UK and Europe. But, yeah, there are quite a few black sealant alternatives that stay flexible after curing. There's roofing and flashing adhesives as well... if you want half a gallon at a time. 

Liquid electrical tape I have never used the stuff only read about it being used on bellows I recalled seeing it on ebay UK so I just checked ANY AMOUNT OF IT.

Certainly no expert but I have read liquid electrical tape works well. Worth a try.

The lingering smell Joe ? Did you ever meet a pig farmer on a night out ? Not difficult to know their ocupation. SORRY PIG FARMERS NOT PERSONAL.

5 hours ago, rodeo_joe1 said:

 

Personally I think that WD-40 ought to be available only on prescription, or by special license. Like any other deadly poisonous substance! 😆

Do'nt know Joe. THERE ARE PEOPLE OUT THERE WHO SPRAY IT ON THEIR JOINTS !

4 hours ago, rodeo_joe1 said:

Maybe something that entirely evaporates would be just as effective? Lighter fluid, or ethanol perhaps? 

I'm pretty sure just loosening the dirt, grease or whatever gunk around the plunger/button/lever would be sufficient to get things moving again. 

Should not matter too much Joe as its on the cameras film back nowhere near optics or shutter blades. is the back door removable on the C330 ? As is is on the C3 C33.

7 hours ago, John Seaman said:

I've freed up a number of camera mechanisms by spraying lubricant, even into holes for example on a 35mm SLR, into the slot which the aperture actuating lever moves in. Obviously at my own risk. But NOT WD40 which is not really a lubricant, more of a dedicated water displacer. I use something called GT85 which is described on the can as a lubricant, penetrant and water displacer with PTFE. I expect something similar is available in different countries.

You are right in what you say. But WD certainly leaves an oil film behind. Dedicated water displacer or not. I use it in the intent as much to clean as lubricate. Certianly sorted my old F1 completly even tho it was DODGEY AS HELL.

Just want to wish you the best of luck. With my REALLY DODGEY PIECE OF ADVISE. Not the sort of advise I like to give out. BE SOOOO FXXXXING CAREFULL in  doing it,   Optics or shutter blades will not tollerate.. STAY WELL CLEAR OF.

Again good luck.

I know it sounds CRUDE EVEN A BODGE Which on a camera it is. As 120 220 set is only in the cameras back film door I would give a squirt of WD40 on it. This should not really be done. I used it once on a Canon F1 non functioning meter set needle. It worked EVEN THO I SHOULD NOT have done it. Had to spray up inside cameras internals.  it did work 100 %.. Heard of others doing the exact same on other camera mechanical faults sucessfully. I have done it sucessfully on other cameras too. DISCLAIMER !  PLEASE DO NOT SAY I RECOMENDED IT. OR EVEN BLAME ME. It can go wrong.  Extreme care needed !

Back in the day it ws common to way overengineer products SOME even designed to LAST FOREVER. This is rarely done today. HOWEVER some materials used in manufacture today are FAR SUPERIOR to what was availible back in the day. I get critisized often for useing modern components tech on on old cars / machinery.  Some folk go nuts when they see an alternator on an OLD CAR. Me ? Do what you have to do to make it work or work better.. So it can be practically used as it was intended to. NOT JUST A SHOW PIECE.

Right Two clicks is C3 C33 Never owned a C330 so no notion.if C330 is two clicks or one. but indeed they can just sound like one. The only theory I had was an incorrect pressure plate film selection. So right out of ideas SORRY !

The standard PC is really quite common even still found on some modern digitals. My Bronica SQA, Mamiya RB67 Canon A1 Canon F1 New My former Canon F1 and FTB. More modern Canon 7D MkII Digital  Even My Mamiya C33's three lenses on which the PC's are of a totally different design to most other cameras still is standard PC Same as my other current and previous cameras.. Not saying there are no different PC sockets / cables. There are. It does not look like the Yashica auto is any other than std PC. I do know some Yashica models use a different screw on PC cable plug . Personally not seen one apart from on some on YouTube vids. Go to a GOOD camera shop ask there maybe ask to trial fit a standard PC.

Hi   I had to look up Yashca Auto on ebay for a pic of one as TOTALLY UNFAMILIAR WITH THE AUTO. I had a 635 LONG TIME AGO ( 1980's )  It was standard PC socket. The pic I looked up looks very much like a standard PC socket. Is yours different ? I dont know ! 

Sure your pressure backplate aint set to 220 ? I realise the camera is new to you and settings usage a bit unfamiliar. Read your handbook Download one if need be. I sold a C33 on ebay a whie back buyer said film counter was faulty. On return I discocovered camera functioning perfectly. The IDIOT buyer had not closed the film door properly. DID NOT READ THE HANDBOOK I SENT with the camera.  Which clearly states Film door MUST be closed FIRMLY with TWO clicks. Get a handbook and read it please.

Add on to my last post

When I bought my ebay RB Pro S It had broken shutter release it was jamming in HARD.. I could well have sent it back however the components ALONE were worth more than I paid. There were lenses with the camera one a portrait tele.  No less than the highly desirable later KL varient.  KL's can be £300 alone, and this one is in pretty decent nick,  never mind the value of the other lenses the prism the film back the rotating plate even the ground screen. All those bits added up to more value than I had paid.

I hunted ebay and bought a working but for parts Pro S. body. Side trim was present but not attached EASY FIX. Leatherette was missing off the RH focus knob. I removed the leatherette off my broken RB focus knob then stuck it on the ebay parts one. I glued back on the side trim reprayed the bare alloy at the top edge of the ftont lens mount panel. I HAD NOW A DECENT FULLY WORKING RB. The ebay parts body I paid £70 for I then sold my own broken body on ebay for £50. That is a £20 fix of a buggered camera and the outfit worth more than I had paid for the busted one and extras originally

You could, buy a parts body replace your mirror then sell the parts body on again Try ebay.

20 hours ago, John Seaman said:

Often dirt on a lens is not a bad thing, suggesting the camera has not been messed around. I've taken a chance on many cameras and lenses which looked dodgy in the pictures, but cleaned up fine. But if the lens has been over cleaned with hankies or the ends of ties etc, there's nothing you can do about scratches and coating damage.

Yeah I bought a cheap nasty len for my RB I thought I coud sort. Turned oiut to be SCRAP. Not cheap enough. Having said that that my red Mamiya C33 display came even cheaper than a black one, she needed light seals and  lens also needed a shutter Easy fixes.

20 minutes ago, rodeo_joe1 said:

Apart from the low contrast and flare!

The lens is filthy with dirt at the very least, and who knows what permanent damage lurks beneath? 

Bin-worthy? Maybe not, but until the crud is cleaned off it the jury's still out. 

You are right Joe ( SEE I DO NOT ALLWAYS ARGUE.) That wiil be a flare monster do not waste film in it.

. But I think that your last line is a bit optomistic to say the least. Are there no good cameras out there ?

16 minutes ago, chuck_foreman1 said:

What Rodeo Joe said... if it's cheap enough.. it will just be another low value asset in your collection of bro.. umm classic cameras I mean

 

If that is permanant damage the only collection that needs to be in is COLLECTION BY THE BIN MEN.. Sorry but Its a parts doner ONLY !

STAY CLEAR !

On 4/18/2022 at 6:22 PM, gary green said:

The 2015 Paris Climate Accords have dictated the phase-out of the manufacture, sale, and use of black-bodied cameras by 2030 since these camera bodies absorb solar radiation and contribute to climate change (aka, global warming). Only silver/chrome/white bodied cameras will be permitted after that. In addition, the agreement contains recommendations for those of us with legacy chrome/silver top and black bottom cameras that, when used during daylight between the hours of 10AM to 2PM local time during winter months and 9AM to 4PM during summer months, they be used only in horizontal/landscape orientation to maximize the reflection of solar radiation back into outer space. Also, during daylight hours, these cameras may only be used in portrait/vertical orientation before 9/10AM and after 2PM/4PM and must be oriented such that the chrome/silver top or bottom plate is facing the direction of the sun, again to maximize the reflection of solar energy back into space. These cameras should not be used at all on cloudy/overcast days since their reflected/radiated energy will be trapped by the cloud cover (i.e., greenhouse effect).

 

Use of cameras of any color will be permitted during non-daylight hours.

 

(wink wink)

Pure logic. Confused now about my Mamiya C33 Landscape or Portrait ?

On 12/9/2022 at 5:37 PM, rodeo_joe1 said:

 

A personality trait that I recognise in myself too. 🥴

No shit !  😀

On 12/7/2022 at 10:31 PM, rodeo_joe1 said:

I'm glad they work for you Laurence. The ones I had seemed to regularly go dead on me while in storage (only for days or a week or so) and needed new batteries or some other time-wasting attention every time I went to use them. 

And sorry I was a bit tetchy in the last post. I'd just read yet another post from a member here who simply gainsays and contradicts others - and then has the nerve to call it 'discussion', while accusing others of the exact same fallacious argument tactics that he constantly uses himself. 

'It takes all sorts' as they say. 🙄

 

Joe. I really do not want this thread or others to turn into a childish between the lines. name calling exercise. Joe nothing personal but I find a lot oif your posts highly dissmissive of those using anything but the latest greatest kit. (Or maybe I am just reading you wrong ?) Some of us have little choice but to run the kit we can afford / justify. And what works for us or can be adapted / made work, nessesisity the mother of all invention.. I fiind a lot of this modern kit is designed for those with the hands of a three year old. Tiny nearly unreadable LCD screens. Thats not just photo equipment either.. I do not doubt in any way your experience ot abilities.. As said I find a lot of your posts highly dismissiive of others equipment. In the local camera club there is a guy who regularly condems the kit of otrher members. I find this behaviour right out of order. (having a go at him not you) But please take note of the simalarity. We use what we can afford / justify. Joe you yourself have been known to pounce on anyone who dare mention a Metz hammer head. Is that any different ?. I will aploogise for my ATITUDE PROBLEM Sorry but that is just the way i am and that is unlikely to change. I am often accused of internet bravado even drinking and posting. Neither the case. I am a regular visitor to Facebook prison. today and tomorrow included, even banned from other forums for my direct bluntness. Just how I am.. Lets just agree to dissagree. (at times) Again its nothing personal.

No Joe. Not looking an argument. Nothing unhealthy about debate.I have two sets of these Chinesiums they work fine and there is nothing much simpler. Bar the fiddley little on off switch on the receivers. I had to replace the batteries in my two transmiters ( I have them quite a while ) No issues, first watch battery shop I went to.. As for multiple heads  One at master rest on slave.

On 12/4/2022 at 4:55 PM, rodeo_joe1 said:

Get a set of YongNuo RF-603 ii triggers Ben, you won't regret it. The PW transceivers are ridiculously priced, and in tests do no better for distance and reliability than far cheaper stuff. 

The YN RF-603s aren't the cheapest, but I've found them to be well-made, reliable, easy to use and have good battery life... provided you remember to turn 'em off after use of course. They're also powered by common AAA cells. 

One downside is that you need to get cables to fire studio strobes. They're only supplied with top and bottom hotshoes for camera/speedlight coupling, but there's a P-C outlet socket on one end. 

Another minor minus point is the rather obscure marking of the mode switch, and it's not clearly explained in the manual. The switch is marked "Off" (obvious), "TX" (=transmit, reasonably obvious) and "TRX" (???). The unit in the camera hotshoe needs to be set in the TX position, and the receivers attached to the strobes set to TRX. All the units are identical and can be used either as a transmitter or receiver. 

There's also the older RF-602, which has a dedicated hotshoe transmitter with receiver(s) of similar design to the RF-603. The RF-602 sets are being sold off at a discount ATM. The 602 and 603 receivers are not compatible with each other.

Functionally the 602 and 603 models are probably equal to each other. I just find the RF-603s more convenient, since I have half-a-dozen of them and it doesn't matter which ones I pick up. There's no special transmitter to get lost or have a flat battery. 

BTW, they're available in C(anon) and N(ikon) flavours. It makes no difference when triggering studio strobes, but they have the matching 'wake-up' pins when attached to dedicated Canon or Nikon speedlights. 

Thats it. Make it more complex than it needs to be. The CHEAP units shown ( Newer and other Chinesiums ) Set TX and DX units the same, switch receiver unit on FIRE AWAY