TimDelans

4 months ago i acquired a beautiful crown graphic 4x5 camera with a top mounted rangefinder for 300 dollars, the camera is fully functional and takes great photographs! it also has a graflite flash with 7 inch reflector, my question is, what type of bulb does the top mounted rangelite take? I know it’s an e10 miniature base. But I’m having trouble finding the correct size and voltage bulb. I’ve found a 2.1v bulb but the filament is not the correct shape, (it’s an upside down “U” whereas It requires a “straight” filament with minimal bend in it) any help would be appreciated!

 

You may want to try a test shot or two to see if the light from you flash bulb is as strong as that of Weegee. You might also want to overdevelop your film to give it a harder, harsher look. And wear a fedora. Without a fedora you would just look silly.

I have the fedora, should I wear a suit or trench coat? (The fedora color matches my current trench coat)

Hey everyone, I have a quick question regarding weegee and speed graphic street photography, he used flashbulbs at 1/200 of a second at f16 right? iirc he stood at approximately 10 feet from his subjects and only then released the shutter. I’m trying to get an idea of how it worked... I have my speed graphic set to 1/200 of a second at f16 with a FP sync flashbulb (no 6 GE bulb) with focus at ten feet. I might be buying some expired super panchro press type B before my next trip to nyc (really ironic because weegee worked in nyc all the time) i have a speed graphic 2x3 if that helps. My front shutter doesn’t have a flash sync but the rear focal plane does, hence the use of FP bulbs.

 

@ Glen H

 

Outline of steps / times / temperatures K-14

 

1. Removable Jet Black Backing (Rem-Jet) Removal 10 seconds ambient temp subsequently buff-off

 

2. Rinse 15 seconds @ 85° -2 +15

 

3. First Developer MQ formula 2 minutes 0 seconds 99°F ± 0.05

 

4. Wash 45 seconds 85° ± 2

 

5. Red light fogging Corning 2403 filter 2.5 millimeters distance 1000 micro-watt second per sq cm

 

6. Cyan developer 2 minutes 0 seconds 100°F± 0.1

 

7. Wash 2 minutes 100°F± 0.1

 

8. Blue light fogging Fish-Schuman LB3 2.2 millimeters distance 230micro-watt second per sq cm

 

9. Yellow Developer 4 minutes 0 seconds 100°F± 0.1

 

10. Wash 2 minutes 100°F± 0.1

 

11. Magenta developer + chemical foggient 100°F± 0.1

 

12. Wash 2 minutes 100°F± 0.1

 

13. Conditioner 1 minute 0 seconds ambient temperature

 

14. Bleach 5 minutes 0 seconds 100°F± 0.1

 

15. Fixer 3 minutes 0 seconds 100°F± 0.1

 

16. Wash 2 minutes 100°F± 0.1

 

17. Rinse 1 minute 0 seconds ambient temperature

 

18. Dry 105°F ± 5

 

 

Initially Ektachrome and Agfrachrome required a reversal exposure to white light. We used a photoflood lamp at 12 inches for 1 or 2 minutes. We did this while the film was on stainless steel spiral reels. We are taking E-2 -- E--3 E-4 process E-6 was chemically fogged. Back when --- I went to Kodak School (MEC) for training on Kodachrome and was granted permission to use their patents for still and motion picture films of that era.

 

was the k-12 process different? Maybe some day I can try processing Kodachrome II as I have some rolls from my grandfathers house that expired in 1973, (reasonably stored at 63 degrees F)

I heard the chemistry was insanely expensive and hard to acquire. What chemistry is required? Can I substitute chemicals?

So I was looking up how color film works and I was looking specifically at the technicolor three strip process. I was wondering if it’d be possible to make a three color process but instead of tinting the three bw positives (rgb) I could put three color filters (cyan Magenta and yellow) blue=yellow red=Cyan and green= magenta, I’ll be using 100iso bw panchromatic positive film maybe fomapan r-100 would work? Has Anyone Tried this?

Sorry for the confusion, when i said front and back i meant you couldn’t see anything from either side when looking through the negatives. it was just black.

I removed the rem jet backing before putting it in the developer, (i use stock solution d76)it must of been the age fog. no I’m not shooting the film. i found this in a keystone A-7 and unfortunately the storage is unknown other than being in a camera for a LONG TIME... and yes, The density covers the entire negative front and back whole width from end to end.

My first post here, my 1946 Kodachrome film keeps turning out black and EXTREMELY dense i did 3 minutes development time and it still came out black! Would benzotriozole be a good option for cutting down age fog on the film?