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The Pentax digital spot meter relies on a flat discharge curve from a

silver battery for regulated supply voltage. Lithium batteries

exhibit a gradual voltage falloff as they discharge, causing the

reading discrepancy you noted. No damage, permanent or temporary,

results from using either battery; new silver versions (unused, open

circuit) typically read closer to 6.35V. The most important thing is

to stick with silver and conduct your film speed testing using that

type battery. Absolute readings don't matter, as long as they're

consistent and your system is calibrated to them.

 

Lithium has a "flatter" discharge curve than silver oxide, meaning the voltage does not drop as quickly as most batteries (including silver oxide). That's what "gradual voltage falloff as they discharge" meant, wherever you read it.

From what I can observe, it seems the auto-stop down post that sticks out of the bottom of the lens is contacting the first couple threads inside the helicoid, preventing me from getting the 3 bayonet prongs deep enough to allow me to turn the lens and lock it on. Anyone ever heard of this? I see a shiny spot down inside the helicoid on the first couple of threads and that shiny spot (spots) line up with that stop down post extending out of the neck of the lens. I have removed that threaded post to see what I could see. It seems to have a wide spot on the post like a built in stopper/washer that only allows the the post to be threaded in just so far as that wide spot will allow. When I do try to tighten that brass post it causes the opening/closing of the shutter blades to stick. Barely loosen it and it fixes the problem. Any ideas? Wondering if someone may have worked on it and put in the wrong threaded post from another camera. Anywhere to get a replacement post other than a parts lens?

You never mentioned the type and cost of service for the F2s. Would be nice if you would.

I would DEFINITELY buy more from the same seller. He took good care of me for a different problem. I was hoping someone with a lot of "experience" could look at that light pattern and recognize what the problem might have been. I bought 10 rolls for $40, and as I said earlier, there was absolutely no problem like this with the first couple of rolls I shot and had developed at a local shop. They look just fine. They came individually sealed in silver foil plastic packaging (no box) just like a name brand roll. I developed these. I think I may have somehow been the problem. We'll see next roll. Have one loaded up in a Bronica S2, but I like carrying a backpack with the 2 Yashica Mat 124Gs so much (one loaded with color and one with B&W) I never pick up the Bronica any more. It'll wear off. I did shoot a couple rolls of Ilford HP5+ a few days ago (one in each camera) and they came out just fine, so not looking like a camera problem. Looking like a "people" problem at one end or the other and my end is very likely the problem end. I just can't put my finger on what might have gone wrong. Still could be at the seller's end, too. We'll just have to see what the rest look like.

I wish you'd stuck with "lastly." The film had many great reviews from happy customers and was very reasonable. Nothing like what you say you found, but didn't show.

That's a really excellent example of a light leak, but that's not 220 film.

It's 70mm cine film. So who's re-packing it into backing paper and spooling it? Could they be responsible for the fogging?

 

Sunstrikes on one side of the film, and amorphous fog on the other. Are you sure the back of the camera was even shut properly?

 

 

The "mystery" deepens. It can't be seen in my photos here, but I noticed that when both negative strips are oriented the same, shiny side up, dull (emulsion) side down with easy to determine images like people and buildings lined up north to south (IE: both negative strips aligned in exactly the same way), the "light leaks" are on opposite sides of the film. How can this be? I am leaning more now that this hand rolled, Lucky brand film made of split Cine 70mm film may have already had a "production problem." Like I think I said earlier, I shot a roll of Ilford HP5 with what I think was the same camera these two rolls were taken with and it was just fine. And this camera, a professional photographer's backup cam, was in mint condition, still in its original box. Or, something happened after the film came out of the camera. The "good thing" is... the subjects of the photos weren't anything spectacular, just local images of things around here and at a farmers' market I took just to get used to using the camera. Still, the "mystery" continues... and I'd like to buy some more of that 220 knowing it's good! Dang it! Hoping it was me... probably.

Lucky brand 220 out of China. Yes. Hand made out of cine. It was as screwed down closed as could be, and that back pops out when unscrewed. I don't know. Was making me wonder if it might have happened inside the bag I was fighting with. Gave up at one point and left two rolls of film inside overnight. But two rolls, 48 frames, all got it the same way. Or happened at point of hand rolling? I don't know. Can't explain it. Have to take a look inside... which I didn't. Seemed tightly closed which meant sealed to me. Disappointing.

Rookie here. I am new at film photography. Got bored and needed a new hobby. I acquired a minty Yashica Mat 124G from a retired pro photographer who only very infrequently used it as a backup camera. It took some great 120 photos first time out. Developed them and they don't look bad at all for the first time. Then I acquired another, twin, Yashica Mat 124G that I just could not pass up. Never know when you might need a spare! One for B&W and one for color! Lol. My dilemma is that I am not sure which camera took these. Is this a good example of a light leak around the edges of the back? It's on what looks like every frame of 2 rolls of 220. Shoot! They are both filled with B&W again and this time I'll have to pay better attention which rolls were in which cameras.

 

 

 

 

Thank you Bill! I just acquired a brand new grip and brand new S filmback. It's the shorter, notched kind you described and was pictured in the other post. I am new at Bronica after all these years. Shot a few rolls and haven't seen them yet. This back was still in the Bronica plastic inside package, and still in the pretty red, gold, black, red felt lined box... but I couldn't remove the darkslide. I guess I've never tried to without the backs being attached to the camera body. I didn't know you couldn't remove them with the back off the camera, but DUH! ... makes perfect sense on why it's there... to protect from ignorance or stupidity! Lol. I was able to depress the button (of which you spoke) with a fork and remove the darkslide. I thought maybe someone forced a larger one in there and it was now stuck. Ta da! Works like a charm after all these years. Thanks again.

Per Rick Oleson: "The screen thickness is not an issue in the Bronica - that concern applies mainly to older twin lens reflex cameras." Maybe the mirror being off because of the disintegrated rubber behind it was the cause of the focusing problem, but shimming the focus screens helped?

Hmmmmm. Thanks for the wisdom, orsetto and Tom_Chow. Are we saying that the Rick Oleson BrightScreen/fresnel replacement does not go under the original Bronica ground glass plate, but stands alone?

Today, I think the most sensible USA/Canada choice is the BrightScreen available from Rick Oleson. He makes a good, reasonably-priced screen in custom sizes for many medium format SLRs and TLRs. One of his standard size offerings is for the S2, which you can customize with your choice of crop lines or grid lines (or no lines). Cost is approx $80, about what you'd pay for a mfr brand replacement screen in any contemporary system (and a fraction of what people ask for a Hasselblad Acute Matte).

 

Custom Fitted Focusing Screens

 

Thanks for that vote. I did my homework and Rick Oleson's BrightScreen is the one I've already settled on. Appreciate. For those reading this thread for advice in the same area here's Rick's link: Custom Fitted Focusing Screens

Bronica offered a dedicated "flash lens" for the S2 camera, a 105mm f/3.5 Nikkor with its own built-in leaf shutter that syncs with flash up to 1/500th sec (comparable to the Hasselblad and Mamiya RB/RZ studio cameras). The lens shutter overrides the focal plane shutter, giving you more options. This lens typically sells for approx $300 if you can find it, so perhaps not something you'd add to a "bargain" s2 outfit: it might be more cost effective to buy a separate, more portable, quieter TLR backup camera for those times you need 1/500th leaf shutter for more flexible medium format flash work.

 

BTW, be sure to shoot a test roll with this S2 camera before you rely on it for a critical project. The S2 body design has an Achilles Heel: the foam cushions underneath the focus screen frame and mirror plate disintegrate over the years, which can throw off focus (viewfinder looks sharp but pics are a bit soft, most often near infinity). Take a series of test shots at mid to far distance, of subjects that would easily reveal focus errors on the film. If everything looks good, the camera is ready to use, if not, you'll need to replace the rotted foams at the screen and/or mirror, to align the viewfinder focus point to the film plane. It isn't that difficult to DIY, but its a bit tricky: tutorials are available at various Bronica enthusiast sites.

 

Thanks. I am already aware of the disintegrating foam and replaced that behind the focus mat frame, but not the mirror. I do the same on vintage speaker woofers as the foam surrounds disintegrate on them over time, as well. Haven't seen any prints yet. I find the S2 sooooo difficult to focus! ... especially in low light, but even in bright light! I want to replace the focusing glass with a split image aid. I am NOT looking forward to removing that frame again! Wow! Getting those washers and screws in place again is a nightmare! I will begin keeping a eye out for the Nikkor 105mm leaf shutter lens. Thanks!

Thanks. Definitely now leaning toward vintage Vivitar 283 or 285. I was thinking the way the Metz, or other grip type flash raised the flash above the lens it would better eliminate red eye more than a short stubby flash. Appreciate.

Thanks, John. Well, that's the only thing that makes sense, closes/completes circuit. I wonder how the 1/40 comes into play. Something that was somehow designed or just measured? The Metz CL45-1 looks like it uses 6 AA (replaceable) batteries in a battery pack. Today's rechargeables should work. Might cost more than the flash, too! ;)

Newbee to site and newbee to Bronica S2. Acquired a beautiful kit... film backs, 2 finders, grip, 3 lenses, filters... even a manual! Total amateur. Looking at it all wondering how to go about it all. Used to shoot film with a Pentax ME Super... pretty automatic. Don't even have my 1st Bronica roll developed yet, but shot 5 rolls in 3 days! Lol! Was wondering about an inexpensive and decent flash for use with this totally mechanical/manual flash. I've seen a couple recommendations. I'm thinking Metz 45 CL-1. How does a flash like this work with a sync cable to the camera? I mean, the camera cannot send a signal since it is totally mechanical, so how does a flash work? Does the shutter mechanism close a circuit with the flash providing the power for the circuit?