danielscheel
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Posts posted by danielscheel
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The main issue is that G lenses have no aperture ring, and you need to use the sub-command dial to control the aperture. The F5 is the first Nikon SLR with two command dials: main and sub.
You can still use G lenses on the F4, but you are restricted to S and P modes. You need to change the shutter speed to influence the aperture.
But I read you can still use it in manual and use just the commands in the F5?
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I think you will be fine, going to check a G on an F5 now. The AF manipulation on the F5 is "different" from the current setups but worked well for me last summer.
There is no AF fine tune, which may be an issue with some lenses. So test before a critical shoot.
Have fun!
PS, I just checked DOF stop down with a G lens, stop down looked appropriate for the indicated aperture on the display, in M mode. Aperture control with wheel control confirmed.
THANK YOU:D!
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Hi everyone!
I have a bunch of G lenses from my D800 but I wanted to purchase an old F5 and was wondering whether it would work with them in M mode as I know at least the F4 does not.
Thanks!
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Any lens for a Mamiya RZ 67 has a leaf shutter, so that isn't a problem. As for sync speeds, be aware that radio transmitters introduce a very small delay between when you click the shutter and when the flash goes off. With my FP shutter DSLRs I generally shoot at 1/125 instead of the sync speed of 1/180 to be sure of accurate exposure. Also, some studio flash units have a fairly long flash duration so shooting at the top sync speed on a leaf shutter may result in a bit of underexposure, although this is probably not a serious problem unless you're shooting color transparency film with narrow latitude. Battery powered flash units generally have a much shorter flash duration than your top shutter speed of 1/400.
So shall i overexpose the fram slightly just in case?
X
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Hi everyone!
I am gonna be shooting with strobes tomorrow and my RZ67.
Would it work fine just attaching the trigger to the hotshoe on the camera? If so what is the max speed I can shoot without getting a black curtain.
I also have a 90mm, 140mm and a 50mm but I cannot find any information whether they have a leaf shutter so I can use faster speeds.
Thanks!
Daniel x
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Hi everyone!
I shot last week and I am getting these weird tones from digital which I dont get and you can see the diffrerence between digital and film.
Its like the film completely skips all orange tones.
What could it be?
DIGITAL:
http://i64.tinypic.com/1zzhsi8.png
FILM:
http://i63.tinypic.com/28vg0m9.jpg
Thanks!
Daniel
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Thanks all for the answers!
I took it to a professional lab so it is quite weird.... Could it be the lens or the camera? I tried different films and bought new one just to try and all seems to give the same effect.
This is a scan of the negative with an Epson v600.
Thanks!
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Hi everyone! I started noticing recently that my negatives are turning much more cyan/greenish and just off overall. What could it be? Here are examples of how they look normally and how they turn out now. Thanks!
http://i65.tinypic.com/2rg2e4z.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/2j14gi8.png
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Hi!
I own a RZ67 and was wondering if I could use a modern flash like this one:
Thanks!
Daniel
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Hi everyone!
I have a Mamiya RZ67 and have now a 90mm lens attached to it.
I have tried everything to take it off, and it just will not dettach. Also replaced even the batteries but I just do not find the reason for it not to work.
What do you think the reason could be?
Thank you and have a lovely day,
Daniel x
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Hi everyone!
I have been shooting film for some months now and I love it! I own a Mamoya RZ67 Pro II and Sekkor 140mm.
I am focused on beauty photography and have looked into extension tubes and have found two of them, No1 and No2.
Which one should I get? No1, No2 or both?
Here is an example (closeups): Daniel Scheel | L´Officiel China
Also what light compensation do you need if you measure with digital camera?
Thanks and have a lovely day!
Kind regards,
Daniel
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Hi everyone!
I usually do beauty and fashion jobs for a living, and lately I have been really intersted in film.
I have seen that many other fashion photographers are doing manual prints from their negatives into C-Type paper in the darkroom to get the right tones.
After doing so, would you then proceed to scan those prints and retouch them (skin, d&b, etc)? What benefit does this have compared to scanning the negative directly?
Here are a few examples:
Alexander Saladrigas on Instagram: “Hand print of @mckennahellam in @louisvuitton. - Brooklyn ‘18”
Thanks and have a lovely Sunday!
Daniel xx
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HI everyone! I saw these gorgeous shots and was wondering what type of gobo the photographer could have used in order to get these shadows.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2uolvo4.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/2zodoo7.jpg
Let me know your thoughts and happy sunday.
Daniel xx
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Here's my take on this:
It's a paid assignment right?
If so, then you owe it to your client and to your own reputation to deliver the best quality images possible - within the budget, timescale and profitability margin.
A paid assignment is not the time to be experimenting with an unknown (to you) film or camera. The results others get from a given film may not be what you acheive. Experiment on your own time, and at your own expense; not your client's.
Talk to the client/printer and ask specifically what's needed. I'm pretty sure the printer won't like handling 35mm colour negatives directly, and that would put the responsibility and cost back onto you to get scans done - expensive and time consuming! That's on top of the turnaround time and expense of finding a good, fast and reliable C41 processor.
Does the fee cover those additional costs and leave you a decent profit?
It sounds to me like you've suddenly decided, for whatever reason, to use 35mm film. Maybe after shooting digital. All well and good, but your responsibility to your client comes first. Your own preferences and whims should come a very poor second.
So if your client wants press-ready digital files with an embedded profile, then that's what you should deliver to them. With the best image and colour quality and at the lowest cost possible - and if that means shooting digital, then so be it.
Thanks so much for the reply! I was thinking of shooting both film and digital as back up.
I was gonna be experimenting beforehand with some film as it is in 2 weeks and have some time before hand.
Thanks!
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Hi everyone yes! I posted that but after mentioning I would use Kodak Portra 400 nobody answered back so I was wondering.
Thanks!
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Hi everyone!
I am shooting a print editorial next month with a Canon F1N which is a 35mm and was wondering if Kodak Portra 400 would be good enough (obviously with good scans) for the printing size of a magazine.
Thank you all so much and have a beautiful day,
Daniel xx
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Hi everyone!
I am shooting a print editorial next month and just got myself a Canon F1N.
I am planning on shooting it with Kodak Portra 400 and was wondering if the resolution and everything would be good enough when printed magazine size (would get really good scans done).
Thank you and have a beautiful day!
Daniel xx
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Hey everyone!
I am buying a new 85mm for my F1 and had two offers with the same price, that being the normal 85mm and the other one the SSC.
Was wondering what the difference between them two was and which one you would get?
Thanks!
Daniel
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Kodak portra 400 most likely.
Thanks!
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Ah thank you all!:) how much can I crop so it still looks good?
Thanks xx
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Hi everyone! Hope you are all doing well!
I am shooting a print editorial next month for the first time on film and I was wondering if my Canon AE1 (or any 35mm film camera) has resolution enough to be printed magazine size without loosing quality (obviously with a good scanning).
Let me know your thoughts and have a wonderful rest of the day!
Kind regards,
Daniel
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Thanks for the kind response. I was just wondering in terms of picture quality is there any difference?
Thanks xx
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No optics in the body hence no difference in image quality.
Go for an F-1 if you need exchangeable viewfinders or focusing screens (the later one can also be had with an AE-1 Program), choice of spot, partial or spot metering (New F-1), faster motor drives (note that 5 fps Motor Drive MA would fit AE-1 Program), larger film magazine, shorter viewfinder blackout, better robustness or if you just like the sturdier feel (and sound) of a pro camera.
Did you consider a T90 or even EOS film cameras?
If your focus is on image quality you may be better off investing into good lenses.
Dirk
Thank you so much for your kind response!
I have not really looked at the T90.
What do you mean by larger film magazine?
thank you and have a lovely day!
Daniel xx
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Hi everyone! I just started film shooting and bought recently a Canon AE1 but was wondering if maybe the F1 was more suitable towards me.
I shoot quite often and was wondering if there were major image quality differneces between them two or if it is only pure mechanical and body differences.
Let me know and thank you!
Have a lovely day,
Daniel xx
Nikon f5 G lenses
in Nikon
Posted
Yeah thats what I read! F100 and F5!
Thanks!