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Hi there- I have a Tokina 100mm and a Nikon D7500. When I'm in autofocus mode on both the lens and camera body, I press the shutter button halfway to acquire focus—I get a beep, but the focus point on the camera doesn't go from red to green—it stays red. Is this normal for a 3rd party lens on a Nikon body? The resulting photo seems to be in focus. Thanks for your help.

Here's a photo of how it detaches. I was assuming this meant I could screw on a different ball head w/ a 3/8" stud, but, based on what's pictured here, is that accurate?

Thanks for your help. If I just got an Arca Swiss ball head that supports 20+ lbs and put that on the Promaster (which is Arca Swiss), do you think it could hold the additional weight?

I have a Promaster XC522 tripod (max load: ~11 lbs) that I love using and traveling with, since it’s light but sturdy and collapses really well. Every once in a while, the head sags a bit under the weight of my camera and lens, so I have been thinking of upgrading the ball head to one that supports more weight. I haven’t had any issues with the legs and weight so far—it always feels secure. Question #1: Is it accurate that upgrading just the ball head will help the occasional sage? (as opposed to necessarily having to upgrade the entire tripod body) That said, I’ve also been thinking of getting an iOptron Sky Tracker Pro for astrophotography, in which case I probably would need a new tripod with both a strong head and a strong base. Question #2: If I did get a second more heavy-duty tripod, would I be able to take the ball head off that and use on my Promaster for travel and more casual use as long as the second ball head is Arca-Swiss compatible? (my Promaster is Arca Swiss compatible) Finally, here’s the weight in play: Nikon D7500 w/ battery: 1.6 lbs Lens range 1.2 - 4.43 lbs iOptron Sky Tracker Pro Camera Mount with Polar Scope: 6.6 lbs iOptron Counterweight Package: 2.97 lbs ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16 lbs minimum Question #3: Any recommendations for a good, sturdy tripod around $100 or so that would cover at the very least 16 lbs but in reality would support more weight in case I were to upgrade to a full frame camera with full frame lenses? Thanks for your help!

I have friends who are on the D850, and they've sworn by the additional landscape detail and dynamic range that the full frame and the 40+ megapixels (D850/Z7) provide. They've also noted overall better performance in astro in terms of ISO/noise management.

I currently have a Nikon D7500 with a ton of specialty DX lenses (wide-angle, fisheye, standard zoom, telephoto zoom, macro, primes). I only have two FX-compatible lenses: Nikon 50mm and Tokina 100mm. I'm trying to decide whether my next system should be Nikon FF or Nikon Mirrorless. I mostly shoot landscape & walking shots in cities, but also have started to do some introductory astrophotography and moon shooting. For creativity and variety, I like to occasionally dabble with other specialty lens cases like macro, wildlife, etc. I don't really do any people photography. A couple of considerations from my end: I like Nikon and prefer to stay with them. I know that I will need to buy at least a couple of new lenses to start on either system. I tend not to buy the most expensive lenses in a given category and instead have been happy using lenses that rate very well but also don't break the bank: e.g. Tokina (e.g. 11-16, 100), Nikon (35, 18-140, 70-300), Sigma, and Tamron. While I know I can't use my DX lenses on either system without quality loss, ideally I'd love to be able to carry over those 2 FX lenses to the new system, so I at least have a few additional options beyond the core lenses I'd have to buyt. But it's not an absolute requirement, since neither is a heavy-use lens for me. A couple of questions: For the type of stuff I shoot, would full frame and mirrorless be a toss-up? (i.e. either system would be good for what I do) In the year 2020/2021, is it smart to make a big investment in a full-frame camera and FX lenses, or is mirrorless the smarter long-term bet? I know that more mirrorless lenses are hitting the market, but, realistically if I upgrade in 2020/2021, would I be forcing myself into pretty expensive Nikon lenses vs. waiting for the Tokinas/Tamrons of the world to catch up? I'd really appreciate any gut-level reactions and advice. Thanks!

Thanks for your reply! I have been using Live View for manual focusing, and normally I have no problems with it. But, for moon photos, I don't see any details to focus on in the interior of the moon--it's just a bright ball of light. That's where I've had to focus on the pulsing swirls around the edges of the moon. Am I doing anything wrong? (I am on a tripod btw and am usually set around F8, 1/125, ISO 100-400).

Thanks for your reply and the helpful info! I'm definitely shooting with a tripod, and I've already moved away from full moons for the reason you mentioned—the attached shot was from my ever foray. That's a really interesting suggestion with the Spiratone. Am I correct that it's a T-Mount lens, and I'd need something like Celestron T-Mount SLR Camera Adapter for Nikon F-Mount to attach it to my Nikon D7500 F-Mount?

I have a Nikon D7500 and a Nikkor DX 70-300mm (4.5 VR AF-P). I've started doing Moon photos these last couple of months. I've been fairly happy with the results so far, but I'd love to get larger shots with more detail & sharpness. (My zoomed-in edited shots are ending up around 850 x 850 pixels) That said, I'm not looking to spend a lot, since I don't otherwise do much telephoto shooting like wildlife or sports. I was researching the Kenko 1.4x DGX teleconverter, but it sounds like autofocus likely wouldn't work with my lens. I'm not averse to manual focus but, so far, I've found it hard to manually focus on the moon because I can't see any details through my camera's viewfinder even when zoomed in--I've ended up having to focus on the edges of the Moon's corona (not sure that's the right word). Would that be less of an issue with the teleconverter? In other words, would I be able to see and manually focus significantly better with the 1.4x addition? If that's not an option, I'd probably be willing to spend up to 500 for a used lens that goes out to 400 or 600mm, but it doesn't seem like there really are any options for that price, even used. Am I missing any obvious contenders? So, with that, I'm wondering if the best approach might be a telescope + ring + adapter. If yes, does anyone have any good recommendations to go with the D7500 for this? All that said, I've love any high-level feedback or suggestions on what the best approach might be here, including things I haven't yet considered. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

That's it! Thank you so much!!!

I have a Nikon D7500. In LiveView for photos with camera and lens set to manual focus, I frequently tap the touch screen to highlight an area that I want to zoom in on and focus against. All of a sudden today, the screen won't respond to my tapping to move the box. I think I must have accidentally changed a setting. Can somebody let me know what I need to do to get it back? (The screen generally still seems to respond to touch, as I can pinch and zoom within a photo I've already taken) Thanks!!

I have a Nikon 7500 and a bunch of specialty DX lenses. I've been thinking about upgrading to full-frame or mirrorless at some point, so I've been reading up on lens compatibility. I'm a little confused about what I'm reading (and have read some contradictory claims). I hoped somebody might clarify for me: If I used a DX lens like a Samyang 8mm, Tokina 11-16mm, Nikon 35mm, Nikon 18-140, or Nikon 70-300mm on a Nikon full frame: Would I get the same photo view as I would on my Nikon 7500? (i.e. the cropped sensor view) Would the megapixel quality be the same, less, or greater than on my Nikon 7500? Would vignetting occur on all DX lenses, or just certain lenses at certain focal lengths? If I used a DX lens like a Samyang 8mm, Tokina 11-16mm, Nikon 35mm, Nikon 18-140, or Nikon 70-300mm on a Nikon mirrorless with converter: Would I get the same photo view as I would on my Nikon 7500? (i.e. the cropped sensor view) Would the megapixel quality be the same, less, or greater than on my Nikon 7500? Would vignetting occur on all DX lenses, or just certain lenses at certain focal lengths? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for all that info--it's really helpful! @DavidTriplett I am currently using a Nikon D7500. Your point about F8 is a really good reminder for me. I have been using PhotoPills to give me the maximum shutter speed before stars would become blurry. But, because I'm on DX and am trying to keep my ISO low, I have been almost exclusively shooting in F2.8 to let in maximum light. In that case, I suppose I'm also running the risk of getting star bokeh if I'm focusing on the foreground tree or tree bokeh if I'm focusing on the stars. It hasn't been an issue so far, but I will definitely start paying more attention to hyperfocal from the outset and also experiment with F8 using my setup. Thanks again!

Let's say I'm shooting the starry night sky, with a prominent object in the foreground that I want to have as the lead-in part of the composition (e.g. a tree or a structure). I've been told that, for pinpoint stars, I should always be using manual focus against the brightest star in the sky. My question is this: Is that always the case, even if you have a prominent object in the foreground? Or, in those cases, should you be manually focusing on that foreground object? What would the best focus point to get the sharpest focus, from beginning to end, in cases where stars are the end? Any help would be appreciated! (If it matters, I'm using a Tokina 11-16, F2.8)

I haven’t yet gotten comfortable with manual focus—even at night, I’m usually lighting up the foreground and auto focusing against that. My plan is to ramp up on manual focus, but I do need a sharp autofocus for both day and night for now, which is why some of the reviews were concerning me.