corysmith

That might shift suspicion to the shutter. Bad light seals I would expect to fog the film all the way to the edge.

 

 

 

It is a messy job, and I’ve sent out for this instead of DIY. But this place advertises they sell light seals. Look it up by camera.

 

https://uscamera.com/

 

NOTE-I’ve never used them, and am not vouching for them. You may find other sources that are better.

 

Yeah, I think I will shoot another roll with tape on the back to see what happens. If it's still there I'll send it in to YYECamera. I understand sometimes light can leak in through the viewfinder too.

Is there a diy solution in replacing the seals?

I do want to add in that by looking at the negatives, the light leak is localized into the frame itself. I did not see it leak out into the sprocket holes. So is it most likely the shutter?

Hi,

 

I just got a Leica M3, and I just got the scans back from the roll I shot. For reference, I used Ilford HP5 with a Voigtlander 40mm F1.4 lens. A few of my exposures are showing a flare by the lower left hand corner. I cannot tell if this is a light leak or perhaps a lens flare? My lens does have a hood on it, btw.

 

Leica Photos

 

Incidentally, the OP CorySmith has not posted again since the opening post.

 

Been a busy end of the week. But I have been monitoring this thread. I never expected quite the response, and I want to thank everyone for their input!

 

 

I understand that the D7200 is probably the best way to go when it comes to IQ. However I am still very tempted by the low prices that the D300 carries these days. I did state in my post that I do like to shoot in a max of ISO 3200, that's true. But the majority of the photos that I take are in daytime situations, which the D300 excels in, right? I have no plans on doing any large prints, so more MP's aren't that much of a benefit, and I don't do much cropping. Since I live near adorama, ill probably pick up a used d300, and see how I like it. If it's not giving me the ideal results, I'll return it.

I am currently shooting with a Nikon D3400. While I am content with the quality of the images I am getting from it, I am not so with the ergonomics of it; I feel I require something with a screen on the top, and switches/dials for changing shooting modes, focus modes, etc.

 

I am on a budget, and I am aware of the 7xxx series of cameras. But I have also noticed that the D300 is regularly available at a bargain. Would it be wise to switch from a D3400 to a D300, or save up a little more for a 7xxx camera? The biggest thing I am concerned about in terms of photographic quality is high ISO performance. I generally do not shoot above 3200. For those of you experienced with the D300, how does it perform at that level?

So I just got back my scans from The Darkroom, and I noticed that four frames from one of my rolls are missing. The frame just before the four missing rolls is darkened on the right hand side. Any speculation on why this is? This was shot on a Nikon F2 with Kodak Gold 200 (I wanted to test out the camera very quickly, and this was the only film available at a nearby source which was Duane Reade)

 

Are you sure you have good batteries? The MD-4 will work with battery very low when the battery check button doesn't turn either LED on.

I have the same issue as him. I put fresh batteries into the motor drive and I am still getting the same problem.

The MD4 can't be "turned off." When you're finished using it, set the S-C dial to L (Lock). It is then inoperable until the next photo shooting.

 

It shouldn't harm the F3 to leave the shutter cocked for extended periods. I've been using F3HPs since they first came out, and I've left the shutter cocked for upwards of several weeks at times. If it'll be a month or more before the camera gets reuses, to be absolutely safe, I'll fire the shutter manually from the camera's shutter release.

 

As for the battery check button, it usually doesn't work on one of my MD4's. It doesn't bother me, though, since I bought it for only $25.

 

Any more questions?

 

Nope, that is it! Thank you for the insight.

So I just bought my self a Nikon F3 bundled with an MD-4 and 50mm/1.4 lens. Everything is working perfectly, but I do have a question regarding the usage of the MD-4 and I have encountered a very minor problem with it. Is it healthy for the camera to leave the motor drive on? Would I be right to assume that the drive leaves the shutter cocked, which isn't any good for the internals in the F3?

 

The problem I am having with the drive is that it seems the battery check button does not work. The right LED seems to come on when the shutter actuates, though. As well as when the film counter hits 0. If anyone else has had this problem, could you enlighten me on any fixes? While it does not hinder the performance of the drive, I would ideally would like to have a fully functional machine.

 

Thanks!