Piranha

Andrew, I appreciate you were not aware of the complexity of Snaperture. The software is very extensive and I took great care (as I always do) to ensure that it was well structured and efficient. May I ask you, as a software engineer, if you are familiar with the Jackson Structure Method, or JSDs, as the diagrams are known? I swear by this methodology and would not consider coding without carrying out this planning exercise first. At work, my boss sometimes commented on the fact that my software took longer than expected, but once commissioned, he was delighted to be spared irate irate calling to report malfunctions.

I also failed to mention a feature in my device, whereby the camera trigger can occur zero to ten seconds after the sensor activates, in one millisecond increments. This is just one example of a function that involves significant user interface, adding to the versatility.

I take your point about my using this forum to "plug" the device and will refrain from doing so in future, but I feel I have to defend its capabilities and potential.

This device is by no means a collection of separate, simple triggers, with on/off response. For example, the range finder can pinpoint distance to the nearest centimetre, up to four metres. This is a digital feature and involves signal sequencing in software, as you will appreciate. If one wished to sense that a body had come within a specified distance, then ensure that it's movement had ceased, followed by a light illuminating, then a noise occurring, it could not be realised simply by a handful of components in a breadboard. This is just a random example, of course, but demonstrates that this device has a great degree of versatility. I agree that if you simply want to detect noise, it is wiser to put something simple together with a few components, however if one wishes a multi-medium, quick response unit that is robust and portable, them more is required.

Being an electrical engineer, and a keen electronics hobbyist, one of the first projects I embarked upon, when I took up photography, was to build a reliable device that would fire a camera shutter when sensors were activated. I was unimpressed with what the market had to offer at the time; devices that could read a single sensor only. I designed my system to house a number of senors in its casing, eliminating the need to plug in microphones, PIR sensors etc. This saves on having to carry additional equipment, and allows greater ease of operation. An added feature is that the sensors can be monitored in sequence, allowing for complex triggering events. The four sensors are PIR, Range, Light and Sound, and there is also a real time clock to facilitate intervalometer operation.

Recently I added an output port in order to drive the ever-popular water-drop apparatus. This gave me the opportunity to use the additional port also as an input, so now one of a range of external sensors can be added. What springs to mind is using this input to detect operation of a pressure pad, as an animal approaches, or to have an infra-red device that triggers the camera when a beam is broken, such as by insects flying. There must be a host of different events that demand instant reaction in order to photograph them.

I am kindly requesting that members offer suggestions for the situations that could be captured using the extra input. Bear in mind that, as an electrical engineer, I can design any necessary circuitry, so no idea will be considered too ambitious.

I have attached samples of its use.

Thanking you all in advance,

Piranha

I agree the results might be just as impressive with video, however the thrill of instant reaction is absent. Have at look at this device. It doesn't need smartphone connectivity and has the sensors built in. There is no need to attach microphones, PIR sensors etc externally.

www.snaperturepro.com

I've really been getting into photography lately. I actually have a Sony A390 thats been sitting collecting dust for longer than its been in

operation. I took it out recently to mess with it and I'm getting more and more interested.

 

I was going to make my first attempt at taking night-photos with a shutter-release cable/remote and found out last night that my particular

model only has 2 time lapse choices on compatible remotes - instant and two-secs. That blows.

 

Every video, website or magazine I read to learn more... It's either talking about a Canon or a Nikon (usually Nikon). This made me really

regret the Sony purchase. That blows too.

 

I want to try to sell the Sony but I wont get a lot for it. Not what I paid, anyway. And I really dont feel like spending $700 for a new Nikon. I

figure that the 2011 Volkswagen is more or less the same as the 2012, so can I just buy a used body off Ebay or something? Is this risky?

Which one should I get? Theres a lot of them. Ideally, I'd spend less than $400, but is that a realistic number? And does the 2011 DSLR

really differ all that much from the newest models?

 

Thanks!

There is a device that incorporates an intervalometer, as well as much, much more. Take a look at www.snaperturepro.com

I doubt if you can get a response-time to match this, using a smartphone's microphone. The OS would introduce latency and an unforeseen delay of 1 mS might as well be a week. Photographing a volume of water, vaguely shaped like a balloon, is child's play by comparison.

A dripping tap won't give you results like this.

I need to change my Photo.net Personalized URL details. Upon enrolling it was not clear what should be entered here and I entered my website URL by mistake. I see no way to edit this and I fail to see why it is required at all; surely it should default to the user's name. Can someone please help me?

Mod Note Thread moved to Site Help

<p>For the past 3 months I have been working on water drop photography. It's been a nice tabletop diversion during the winter months. To date all my water drops have been squatty and collisions thick and heavy. I've been dickering with water chemistry, mainly adding different ratios of plain tap water with water mixed with Guar gum or Xanthan gum. I've tried 50/50, 60/40, 70/30 with no luck. I think I've found a good ration 80/20 (water/gum water). The worthington jets shoot out like they are launched when compared to earlier attempts I actually had to move the camera back to get the entire sculpture in focus. For this image the water is dyed with yellow India Ink. I like the subtle hints of color it produces. <br>

Image specs: Single Shot Table Mounted Canon 5D-3, Canon 180mm - f/32 - SS 1/200 - ISO200 - Dual 600-EX II flashes with plexiglass diffuser panel for ceiling lights.<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18189443-md.jpg" alt="" width="576" height="680" /></p>

I use a system that produces very pleasing results. What device are using? I am not familiar with worthington jets, could you please give me the URL?

Hi

I'm thinking of buying the kit necessary to take some water drop photography and the Mumford "time machine" looks pretty versatile. It's a

fairly significant cost so was wondering if anybody on here has had any experience of it?

Grateful for any comments/advice

Thanks

Chris

Check out www.snaperturepro.com Unlike the Time Machine, this unit has the sensors built it, so there is no additional cost for sensors. Also, the sensors can be used individually or in sequence. The real time clock is included, rather than being an ad--on module.

Not that its anything unusual for me.

New guy, retired after 50 years in the business, started in the U.K. migrated to Europe, wandered about & finally almost settled in MD, USA.

Mostly industrial/commercial work, followed by ring sports for a publishing company.

Used everything from 16mm up through 8X10". Did lots of studio work with both continuous & strobe.

I'm supposed to post 5 images, but I can't find the FAQ to tell me where to post them. A search turns up nothing & the guidelines just say make 'em mine & keep em small.

Can some kind soul tell me where they should go? Is there a specific album or something, or do I just post scattered about in the forums they most work in?

Should I host on line & link or do they need to reside on here directly?

TIA.

I am a total newbie myself, however I think I have successfully uploaded images. In the top-right corner of the screen, there should be a link for uploading, net to your profile picture. I hope this is helpful.

<blockquote>

<p><em>I am quite embarrassed to say that I do not own a smart phone and this is just another good reason to get one.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p><em><br /></em>I have a $50 Android tablet and a $100 Windows 10 tablet, both are capable of running full remote control programs for Nikon including remote live view.<br>

See:<br>

<a href="ControlMyNikon | Finest Nikon DSLR tethering and Nikon remote control">ControlMyNikon | Finest Nikon DSLR tethering and Nikon remote control</a><br>

<a href="Introduction | qDslrDashboard">Introduction | qDslrDashboard</a></p>

<p>The Polaroid looks identical to my unit, same everything! The triggertrap looks very cool. I am quite embarrassed to say that I do not own a smart phone and this is just another good reason to get one. Thanks for the help folks! </p>

Triggertrap is no more, sadly. A much more reliable device, which does not even require a smartphone, can be seen at www.snaperturepro.com

This is produced using the self-same device

DropGreen.jpg

Check out the amazing results at www.snaperturepro.com